I really don't want to change the camshaft nor the crankshaft

I'm hoping that the camshaft and crankshaft are fine. Especially the camshaft gear to the distributor.

Today, I set the crankshaft Timing Mark to TDC 0 for the spark plug terminal #1. I was suprised that the rotor is not centered at the spark plug terminal #1. I have pulled out the rotor and found out that the distributor armature pole is not aligned properly at the stator assembly pole.
The armature has a play in it, probably about 1/8 inches. If I turn the armature counter-clockwise, then the armature pole is aligned exactly to the stator assembly pole and the rotor is then perfectly centered to the spark plug terminal #1.

My question is...
Is the rotor or the armature itself has a play in them? Or they should not move at all unless the crankshaft is turned over.

I was thinking that the distributor gear might be worn out. So, I tried to remove the distributor but I'm stumped because the distributor hold down bolt is directly under the distributor housing. I could not get my ratchet or tools to get to the bolt since the distributor hold down bolt is not located away from the distributor housing.

It there a special tool, I need to get to get off this distributor hold down bolt?

While I was trying to figure out how to remove the distributor, I was reading on the manual to see if there is a way to check for the timing chain play.

The book says that the timing chain is 5 degrees over before TDC then the timing chain is stretched out and needs replacement as well as the timing gears.
I followed the guide and found out that the van's timing chain play is 20 degrees before TDC.

Before I remove the Timing Chain, I would like to see the distributor gears first.

 

I'm not familiar with that distributor, but the parts stores sell special distributor wrenches, probably one of 'em fits yours.

 

The bolt that holds the dizzy in is 5/16 (1/2" wrench), and is not that hard to remove.

 

Hey guys. Just wanted to jump in with my own dilema. I've been having similar problems to start with. Now, after reading through this thread, I think we may have something here. Read through and tell me what you think.

(From another thread I had submitted)

Hey there Mustang 5.0 or anyone else with the knowledge of this TFI module. I've been reading through the forums looking for similar situations and this one may have scratched the surface. My '86 E-150 (5.0) has been stalling lately and it has been getting harder and harder to restart. I usually have to end up recharging the battery before I can get it going again. Anyway, I did the first thing that came to mind and replaced the electronic fuel pump in the tank. However, since then I can get it to crank at all. Either I'm doing something wrong with the prime or... it may be another animal altogether. Mustang 5.0 touched on a TFI module with exceptional failure rate. My question is, "If I replace this, and it is not the problem, what other devices are involved woth gettin fuel to the injection system?" Thanks for your help, in advance. I love this site.

(The Latest Situation)

I have checked the fuel line all the way up and the gas is pumping. Next, I checked for a spark at the plugs--none. I went on to the coil---none. Even though I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor about a year and half ago, I went ahead and replaced just the coil, cap, and rotor this time. Now, still, I'm not getting a spark at the plugs but, I am getting voltage out of the coil. I'm confused.... what could be wrong here? My meter was reading 13 volts out of the coil plug and at the positve wire to the coil with my neg. probe on the battery neg. but, when I would put my neg. probe on the neg. wire to the coil and the positive probe back on the positive wire to the cable I got erronneous readings. Is there something interrupting the coil voltage or possibly something interrupting the output under the distributor cap? Please help. I'm trying not to Easter Egg, as you put it, I can't afford that or a mechanic right now, that's why I have to keep trying some of the easier DIY type troubleshooting methods. I'm thinking it must be something in the electronic nature but, I don't know what else to look for. Thanks again, in advance, for yours or anybody's input. Oh, by the way, we're talking about an '86 E-150 5.0 liter 302 V8. Have a great day... or night.

 

The TFI module is the grey box on your distributor.
It's held in place with Torx bits, and pulls straight down.

Advance or AutoZone can test them for you for free.

You'll need some heatsink compound when you put it back on, new ones normally come with a small packet of it.

If it's not that, it could be that you've somehow jumped a tooth on your distributor, your timings out, or it's your crankshaft sensor.

Ford had a class-action suit against them for the TFI module.

 

Hey Knightmayre, thanks for the quick reply. I just went outside to look with a flashlight. I can't quite see it. Unless, it's the metallic pot metal looking thing that a rather large (medium) wire harness plugs into. If so, are the trx screws you mentioned, on the left side possibly inset?...if not, I can't seet them. Also, check this out, I guess I left the key in the ignition whn I was out there earlier, anyway, when I reached in and touched some of the wires, i heard the whine of the fuel pump as when you first turn the key. What is that about?

 

It has a plug on it that faces out towards the front of the motor, it's fairly large and has all the connectors in a row, think there is 4 wires in all (from memory).

The Torx bits on mine & the Taurus I did were both recessed.

What model vehicle was yours?

 

An 86 E-150 5.0 liter V8.

Do you know what these run? Two days ago I went to Advance Auto and no one,nor their computer knew what a TFI module was. They sold me an Ignition module and I returned it when I couldn't find anything like it anywhere. Is that it? An ignition Module? Should I go back and get it? Thanks.

 

It's about $30.

Grey plastic box. AutoZone Part Number F121

You have a carb or EFI?... think the carb modules were DuraSpark units... the EFI models have the one we're talking about.

 

It's EFI. Oh, i've noticed a spliced wire from the neg. side of coil that runs to a huge box on the driver side fender. The wires are at the rear of the box and the front of the box has a cable that runs to the throttle line at the injection system. Is this it? or.. the wires at the distributor? Thanks for your timely repliy by the way.

 

I think you are talking about the other module called EEC IV Module which is normally found on the fender.

The TFI module they are talking about is attached to the side of the distributor. Look around the distributor for wires. That wires should be connected to a rectangular looking thing which is bolted to the side of the distributor.

 

On our model years, it's mounted on the right-hand side of the distributor (looking under the hood). It's kinda hidden below the cap. It's about 3 1/2" long and about 1/2" thick.

Here's some info for ya:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3349/test.htm


The dizzy on the right has the module attached, is on the opposite side on ours.



And another one for ya.
If you're still stuck I'll take pics of mine tomorrow.

 

The EEC-IV PCM is located on the passenger side: the connector passed throught the firewall.

Have you pulled the codes yet? Do a search for it, as it's covered plentifully in the truck forums.

 

Hey thanks, I found it and a picture. There is a class action lawsuit against Ford for this. You can check it out at: www.tfisettlement.com I read about it there and the claims of the defect were exactly as mine. Anyway, I went on further and found them on Ebay with a picture. You goota love the internet. Thanks for all of your time and I hope this may help others in the future.

 

Ford moved it to the firewall in later years: it still blew up.

Make sure you cover it liberally with heatsink compound, and also remember it has spade terminals that point vertically down, so make sure you pull it straight down... that way you won't have to remove the distributor, and jump a tooth when you put it back in (like I did) and also that way you won't break the spade terminals (once again, like I did LOL)