How do I check the coil.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
First one would have to ask what problem(s) you are experiencing? You can unplug the connection on the coil that has 2 small wires on it. One of these will come from the ignition switch and one will go to the distributor, I believe, TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH ON and determine which wire is live and test it there. Again, what problem(s) are you having?
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New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
My buddy can't get his truck to fire. he said it wasn't getting any fire at the plugs. He wanted to change the coil but I had this same problem with a Dodge truck I had, it turned out to be the magnetic pickup( not sure what the tech name is). I'm thinking he has the same problem but wanted to check the coil also.
Thanks
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
I will take 3 guesses. Most likely is the ignition module on the side of the ditributor. You need a special tool to remove this, only about 6 or 7 dollars available at most automotive jobbers. Next the coil. Last the magnetic pickup, you mention, it is called the stator. To replace the stator I believe you have to remove and disassemble the distributor, that is the way my 88 f150 with that same engine is anyway. So you will want to check the other 2 things first, they are much simpler and cheaper. You might want to check for juice at the coil connection I talked about in my first post. If you don't have a volt meter just a test light to make sure you have power there should do. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch on. If you have juice there, I would bet it is one of the three things I mentioned, barring a broken or corroded wire or connection. I hope this sheds a little light on it. Let us know what you find, it will always help myself or someone else out in future diagnostics. Good luck.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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I replaced everything- Ignition Control Module, EEC(coil), the whole distributer (it didnt cost that much compared to the cost of the stator), distributer cap, rotor and plug wires. The last thing was the EEC Power Relay, which I removed and took to two different parts stores, neither of which carried the part. Ended up throwing my hands up and turning it over to a shop. They said the ECM(main computer) was fried, as well as that EEC Power Relay. Couldnt get a straight answer from the shop about what might have caused the relay to fry and whether that caused the ECM to go out. I'd used my meter, testlight and a jumper wire to try pinpointing the problem prior to handing it over to the shop, so I guess it's possible that I could've burned up the computer myself. I didnt wear a static bracelet while performing the tests, as recomended by the Chilton manual I was refering to. But then again, I'm certain that I didnt accidentally ground anything-nothing smoked, battery remained strong. Does this sound plausible? Got the truck back and it's running great.
