Garage Door Recommendations
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,705
Likes: 4
From: Wichita KS
I agree also, and I can tell you for sure that the stuff you buy at HD or the others are not the same as the one true door installers use, even if they are the same brand. For instance a garage door opener purchased from a retailer will have a half chain half cable drive and the rail comes in sections. On a contractors opener it will have a solid chain drive and the rail is one piece.
Duane
Southeast Kansas Coordinator
Duane
Southeast Kansas Coordinator
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: IL
Originally Posted by oldfatandtired
You would have to mortgage the house and sell the children to afford a custom door from Home Depot. Maybe selling the kids......... I am assuming you want to remove the center post between the doors and place a the single door in the opening.
This is usually a process that can be done. But, (there is always a but) you may have problems with the door header. Usually their are two headers in the garage you describe. If so to install a single door a one piece header spanning the new opening needes to be installed. This isnt to bad of a project assuming the old headers can be removed with out damaging the exterior of the garage. Additionally, if the wall with the doors is load bearing you must put in temporary bracing to prevent nasty building collapses.
There a number of companies that make a door like you described. They cost a bit more than a standard Clopay 4130/4150 door from Home Depot. But they will be a hell of a lot cheaper than a custom door from the boys in orange. Another thing you might want to consider; If you have enough clearance on the sides of the door opening, install an 18' door. You will only need 6" or so on both sides. It also makes the garage real hard to be broken into through the garage door. An 18' door from the evil orange men will be quite a bit more expensive than a 16' door and a bunch cheaper than a custom door. Home Depot is not a value priced shopping experience when the word "custom or special order" is mumbled.
Contact me at oldfatandtired@yahoo.com and I can get you the name of distributors of custom doors. Depending on the region in which you live there are a number of manufacturers. Typically smaller companies provide the odd sized doors. Most people have never heard of these companies (they dont have a giant advertising budget or Home Depot accounts) but they are a bunch of great door companies out there.
Have a great day
Mike
This is usually a process that can be done. But, (there is always a but) you may have problems with the door header. Usually their are two headers in the garage you describe. If so to install a single door a one piece header spanning the new opening needes to be installed. This isnt to bad of a project assuming the old headers can be removed with out damaging the exterior of the garage. Additionally, if the wall with the doors is load bearing you must put in temporary bracing to prevent nasty building collapses.
There a number of companies that make a door like you described. They cost a bit more than a standard Clopay 4130/4150 door from Home Depot. But they will be a hell of a lot cheaper than a custom door from the boys in orange. Another thing you might want to consider; If you have enough clearance on the sides of the door opening, install an 18' door. You will only need 6" or so on both sides. It also makes the garage real hard to be broken into through the garage door. An 18' door from the evil orange men will be quite a bit more expensive than a 16' door and a bunch cheaper than a custom door. Home Depot is not a value priced shopping experience when the word "custom or special order" is mumbled.
Contact me at oldfatandtired@yahoo.com and I can get you the name of distributors of custom doors. Depending on the region in which you live there are a number of manufacturers. Typically smaller companies provide the odd sized doors. Most people have never heard of these companies (they dont have a giant advertising budget or Home Depot accounts) but they are a bunch of great door companies out there.
Have a great day
Mike
Why would there be problems if it was a double header? For me, it is 2-2x10s that have small spacers in between so they add up to 3 1/2".
Why does the 18' door make it harder to break in?
What kind of material would you go with to accomplish the single beam? I have been looking at glulam but it seems I'd need to go with a 16" or so width which defeats the purpose of doing the project because I want to pull my truck in and right now I need width on the garage which means I should pull the center post. If the header is going to stick down a half foot more though then foget it as I won't have the height then.
Is there anywhere you know of where I can get some good info on how to tackle a project like this. I'd like to do much of it myself.
Trailering
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: nearby Clifton Gorge in beautiful Clifton, OH.
I need some further information about your home before I could make any reccomendations about your project. Type of home i.e. bilevel, brick exterior..........., would really help. There are a bunch of variables that need to be considered in order to provide some accurate advice.
Cordially,
Mike Lynch
Cordially,
Mike Lynch
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Any insulated doors do a better job of hold off heat? My detached insulated garage has a single and a double door, both not insulated, and the afternoon/evening sun here in Texas really warms it up in there..
Sam
Sam
Trailering
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: nearby Clifton Gorge in beautiful Clifton, OH.
The cheapest method to keep heat down on a door is to paint it a light color. There are some paint manufacturers out there that make a reflective paint. If the doors are in good shape, it is my miserly opinion that the cost of new doors will not provide enough savings in cooling. I put an extra window air unit in my garage. It was free and doesnt cost too much too run.
If your existing doors are in need of replacement, an 1 3/8" insulated door in white is a great door. If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me.
Cordially,
Mike
If your existing doors are in need of replacement, an 1 3/8" insulated door in white is a great door. If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me.
Cordially,
Mike
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
These doors are brand new (bought new house just before XMAS last year).
and are a light beige color. I did have a window put in the garage for AC unit,
(still have to get that) and had a 230v circuit run too, but had 'heard' that insulated doors would help.
Sun comes up near the back of the garage, and not til 3:30 or 4 does the sun hit the front doors (at a 45 degree angle, not dead on). Course, that is when I would be there most times, after work!.
They are still building here, so I could put thin foam insulation sheets in the door panels too..
18K BTU 230v AC unit is $329 at HD now. Thought about combo heat unit too, but extra $200 for 12k BTU heat seems too much right now.
Thanks
Sam
and are a light beige color. I did have a window put in the garage for AC unit,
(still have to get that) and had a 230v circuit run too, but had 'heard' that insulated doors would help.
Sun comes up near the back of the garage, and not til 3:30 or 4 does the sun hit the front doors (at a 45 degree angle, not dead on). Course, that is when I would be there most times, after work!.
They are still building here, so I could put thin foam insulation sheets in the door panels too..
18K BTU 230v AC unit is $329 at HD now. Thought about combo heat unit too, but extra $200 for 12k BTU heat seems too much right now.
Thanks
Sam
Last edited by sdetweil; Jul 9, 2004 at 08:00 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
OF&T's comment regarding the header I believe suggested that there may be 2 headers (one over each door) and not a continuous 17' spanning the entire garage end. Look above the door if exposed and see in the area between the doors has studs to the plate (ceiling) above or if the header is continuous through this location. Another thing to keep in mind is if as indicated you have 2x10 header(s) now, you will have to go deeper with the longer unsupported span or consider putting a steel plate in the header. His suggestion/solution to put an 18' door is the 17' opening would probably work great, the only thing to keep in mind is that you would most likely want to stay with a "flush" panel door so you don't have the jambs and head 6" in on a raised panel. Some measuring will confirm how it would look. If you custom order a 17' and you ever have damage to less than the entire door, you might have a heck of a time getting a timely replacement panel(s). I have a 8x9 and 9x18, gotta be careful on how they look with the house, mine turned out OK but like to get the toy hauler in once in a while.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: IL
Originally Posted by oldfatandtired
I need some further information about your home before I could make any reccomendations about your project. Type of home i.e. bilevel, brick exterior..........., would really help. There are a bunch of variables that need to be considered in order to provide some accurate advice.
Cordially,
Mike Lynch
Cordially,
Mike Lynch
Probably the best way to get an idea of what is going on is to look at the web page I put up for it. Let me know what else you need to know.
I am not so sure that widening to 18' is an option. I was thinking of actually closing it in to 16'. I am also not sure that the supports on the sides would take the extra weight.
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/dan_s_johnson/home.htm
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 21
You need to get an Structural Engineer to tell you how to fix this. You will have to take both your garage doors down, You will have to temporaly support the upper structure by putting an "I" beam inside the garage with steel jacking columns to the floor. The jacking columns need to be on steel plates to spread the weight and the bottoms either welded to the plates or dogs welded on the plates to keep the columns from kicking out. The other option would be to rent scaffolding with jacks to support the upper structure. Wood bends, throw in some moisture and heat and it will bend more. I don't see a metal plate in the header to stop it from bending. Since I don't see any pressure treated lumber or sill plates used on top of the brick. I think you are also getting sag from the center support slowly rotting away where it touches the concrete. Is your concrete floor cracked near the center support? The cracks would big enough to insert a match stick, not hair line cracks. If its not cracked I'd say you probably have a good footing under the center edge of the floor. If you have to tear out the header it will be cheaper to buy an one Engineered header and get rid of the center support, with the use one garage door,one opener. and you won't have a worry about hitting the center support with a car. If you don't get it Engineered and something happens, IE a storm blows over the garage or you have a fire, the insurance company may not pay you for your loss. I would not use a permanent "I" beam over the door they have a tendency to quickly collapse if struck or exposed to fire.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: IL
Originally Posted by dan_s_johnson
I'll be more than happy to provide any info needed as I certainly could use some suggestions. The home is a raised ranch. It has a 2 car attached garage with a level above it plus the roof load. It has 2 garage doors and has a support in between. This support has sunk 1.25" and that is why I need to fix a lot of this as it has made minor cracks in the 2nd level drywall.
Probably the best way to get an idea of what is going on is to look at the web page I put up for it. Let me know what else you need to know.
I am not so sure that widening to 18' is an option. I was thinking of actually closing it in to 16'. I am also not sure that the supports on the sides would take the extra weight.
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/dan_s_johnson/home.htm
Probably the best way to get an idea of what is going on is to look at the web page I put up for it. Let me know what else you need to know.
I am not so sure that widening to 18' is an option. I was thinking of actually closing it in to 16'. I am also not sure that the supports on the sides would take the extra weight.
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/dan_s_johnson/home.htm
I went to home depot last night and they want $939 for the premium door at 16 feet wide which is R9.1 rated. It has the steel on both sides. If I went 17' it would be custom and about $400 more so I am staying away from that. Then windows at single pane would cost something like $282 with the dual pane being $100 more.
I would end up going with this option unless I hear of something better.
Thanks
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: IL
Originally Posted by oldfatandtired
Sorry I have not responded quicker. Life has been rather hectic on the farm. I will look at your website and get back with you this weekend.
Mike
Mike
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: IL
If anyone has suggestions on a door for me I would really appreciate it. 17' span so I'd probably need a custom door. I might be able to make an 18' work but would hope it wouldn't look too weird from the outside.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...4&goto=newpost
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...4&goto=newpost
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,085
Likes: 176
From: Central Texas
I converted my 2 8' single door garage to one big one. The opening worked out to be 17'. I was able to find a white 17' door in stock at a local garage door co. for about $500 out the door(pun intended). They said that was not a custom door, so you should not have a problem. Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 21
The Clopay door I had recently installed is nice, you would be able to tell from the outside if you used too big of a door because the panel and windows would have the edge seals going over them. I'm not happy with the install by Access Doors in Waldorf, they've been out three times and its still not right. Just found out yesterday they didn't hook the opener up correctly and this will void the warranty, they were supposed to use punch angle to reinforce the door where the opener attaches to the garage door. Clopay has an excellent website and you can look over the instructions there. http://www.clopaydoor.com/r-home.asp