Had the truck 2 months and figured out the sloping front end and sad stock tire size combo was more disappointing than the 235 hp 5.4. I think I made the choice due to the fact I have a 4.10 rear. With that said anyone else running a leveling kit with 33's? I've seen helper spring versions and a bolt on kit that "lowers the front spring pockets" which one is best and what the heck is a front spring pocket? How about tires? I've found some cooper 255/85R16's anyone have any other "skinny" tall tire suggestions? Also anyone running Rancho RS9000 shocks on a SD? I'd like to adjust the ride some and like to know if they helped.
Since I've read a few posts I'll answer the why not bigger Question now...
Lack-o-power/cash. Like to get taller rubber and 2-4 more in the lift but I'd want different gears, like 4.30's or more. Does anyone know what the potential doaner trucks? I've heard the 350 has 4.30's and I hear the 450-550 may fit and have a better variety to handle the taller tire. While I'm at it anyone know where I can get the technical data on my 235 hp 5.4 and the 260 HP version?

Thanks for any help

 

It is not possible (or very expensive) to upgrade your motor to the newer 260 HP version. You could get a little of it by putting an an aftermarket low restriction exhaust, like the Banks system or the Borla system. I did some looking in to changing my '99 V10 (275 HP) in to the newer (310 HP) version, and found that among the many changes, the heads were different. As far as 33's, I run P305's on 16x8's on my stock truck with no lift and no clearance problems, although is is close. The P305 is the metric equivelent to a 33x12.50. I assume you have a 4x4. Eventually I will probably level it, and the new spring hanger route is the way I'll go.

 

I'm partial to the skinnies so I'm gonna go with cooper 255/85R16's, basically 33 X 10.5.
Ever hear of a wynjammer supercharger? Should get about 70-80HP with no chips, etc... Should help turn the tires and might even help the MPG since 235HP is no where near enough power to get these beasts moving properly. They ask 3K and claim 4 hours to install!
Now that I think about it who are these trannies? I have the 4sp auto. I guess I haven't heard anything bad, hope no news is good news.

 

f250sd and f350sd srw all have the same 10.50 rear end. 3.73, 4.10, and 4.30's will all interchange. but i don't think the switch from 4.10 to 4.30 is enough change to justify all that work and money???

transmission is pretty tough, think it would be even tougher being you only have the 5.4. it is designed to hold up behind a power stroke so don't think you will hurt it. just keep the fluid changed reguraly and you will be ok.

parts man

 

Don't know if this helps or not... I have a 99 F-250 Superduty Crew Cab long bed with the V-10. I just got done installing the 2.5" leveling kit from Jack-It, which is really a Tuff-Country kit. I ordered it with the Bilstein shocks and installed it myself. Took me a couple of days working on it at night, but all in all not that bad. Biggest PITA was getting the stock track-bar bracket off, since one of the nuts broke loose from the holders in the in-frame bracket. I have BFG T/A All Terrains KO's on the truck, 33x12.50x16.5's on American Racing Wheels.

Here's a lousy picture I took after getting everything installed. The truck looks like it's still a little nose down in the picture because the driveway has a slope in that direction.
http://www.19th-hole-princeville.com/res_1979.jpg

 

NICE truck, did the shocks improve the ride quality? Also was the fying hi the add-a-leaf or the lowered spring mounts? Thanks for the pic, I was hopeing to fill the wheelwells a bit and from the look of you ride it did the trick.

Eventually I'd like to get the 4:56 gears if I go with 36's or 4:88's if I go with 38's. Seems a bit extream but the motor is a bit lacking and to me the gears are required. I mostly run this truck on the road with occational play off-road. There are days she gets loaded down but not to capasity so I'm primarily looking to have a cool ride that rides nice.. I couldn't think of a cooler looking truck, from there any short coming can be fixed!

 

I was having a lot of creaking/groaning/clunking in the front, most of which I attributed to the drivers side shock being shot. That has all gone away since I added the leveling kit and the new Bilstein shocks. It's very firm, but not harsh. I also think the bump-steer has been reduced, but that's very subjective. The Jack-It kit is a set of add-a-leafs, not shackles. You have to remove the springs, remove the bolt holding the spring packs together, add the new leafs under the existing leafs, bolt it all back together and re-install the springs. You end up going from 2 leafs to 7, and I believe the new leafs are about 1/2 inch a piece, which is how you end up with a 2.5 inch lift. They said it also adds about 250 pounds of capacity to the front leafs, which is very apparent when I put my 8' western plow on. Before, the truck nose dived even with 500 pounds ballast. The one time I've had the plow on since installing the lift, the nose dropped 1 inch with NO ballast and was very driveable.

I ordered the kit with a set of helpers for the rear, but it's too damn cold to install them now, so I'm waiting until the spring.

 

Thanks for the info, I think I'm going with RS9000 adjustable shock and the shackles. Anyone hear that you don't need the track bar extension with 2.5 inches. Apparently the BDS kit does not have one.... at least thats what a guy at the shop said, he also said he takes the bumper off. Not sure if that is because I have a plow frame (fisher minute mount). Also why did Ford opt for the track bar? I've had many straight axle leaf spring rides that don't have one, wondering if you even need it?