I have a 892WD F150 w/Mazda (yuk) 5 speed. Just put in a Clutch master cyl that came with no bleeding info... Is the bleeder for the system above the quick connect at the slave? And speaking of quick connect, someone tell me how quick it is, I cant figure it out!!! Lastly, should slave be done at same time as master? obviously, would rather not drop the trans if I dont have to!! Thanks JJf

 

I just did this on mine so here it was I figured out. First the quick disconnect should just click in have heard some people having to bend the tabs in slightly. Bleading is a pain but mostly just in time consumption. the bleader right above the disconnect is the one you are looking for. put a piece of small hose inside the bleader and the other end in a glass with some brake fluid in it. second fill the master cylinder then open the bleader and watch for bubbles keep an eye on the master that it does not run out of fluid. when the bubbles stop the slave is full and should be mostly bled ( this takes awhile and it is easy to let the master run out of fluid so watch it closely). The master only should be half full when you are done. (the rubber diaphram fills the rest). now get someone to hold the pedal halfway down (you can put a piece of wood under the pedal if you like to keep it from going to the floor) and crack the bleeder slightly (do this step quick just a open close thing just to let air out no fluid) that should do ya mine is working great now.

Steve

 

The internal slaves in the Mazda trannies can be a royal PITA to bleed. Because of the bends in the tubing that comes down the firewall from the master to the slave, air bubbles can get trapped that traditional bleeding techniques don't get out. What I found worked best for me when I had to do mine was to pressure bleed it. I don't have a pressure bleeder kit, so I had to improvise;
I took a standard hand-pump oil can, you know, with the flexible metal spout, filled it with brake fluid, attached a piece of vacuum hose on the spout from the can, and the other end to the bleeder on the tranny. Then, I opened the bleeder valve, and slowly pumped the oil can by hand, watching the clutch master all the while. You wouldn't believe how great this worked. I had to drain off some fluid from the master before I was done, but it was still easy. I kept pumping until I no longer saw any ait bubbles come up in the master.

Finally, if you can't pressure bleed it, you may still have a dead pedal after you're done. The only way to get it back is to "jack-rabbit" the clutch pedal 10 times, and hold it while someone else helps bleed at the tranny. You will need to repeat this at least 10-15 times.

Take care,
~Chris

 

By "jackrabbit" you mean pump her up ??? 'cause 2 of us did the traditional hold to the floor and open the bleeder and just a few drops came out. And of course no backpressure came to the pedal. (I assume back pressure is the work of the slave). So I try will the tricks you guys left me (THANKS), but my money says I am taking this tranny out and doing a slave. 3rd trans removal in 4years! Kinda funny, these 5spds seem to utilize the 3006cyl's power better than any trans before-too bad they are so lame!

 

It really shouldn't be that hard to bleed. You are removing the rubber cup under the master cylinder filler cap before adding fluid? I admit I forgot to do this a few times and there was a post about this on here a few days ago. The rubber hose the first poster talked about isn't a bad idea but it isn't really necessary, just let the fluid come out at the bleeder valve. Air will not re enter if you keep fluid in the master cylinder. It should just gravity bleed, make sure to leave the top and rubber cup off the master cylinder so you don't create a vaccuum lock. If the flow won't start on it's own, try taking a disposable rag and an air compressor and nozzle and cover the top of the master cylinder and blow down there, that should start the flow. (careful or you'll make a mess) Don't have excess pressure in the air compressor tank, maybe 30 or 40 lbs., when you do this or you may damage the master or slave cylinder. When I replaced the clutch parts including the slave cylinder and line between the master and slave cylindrs in my 88 f150 with the 5 speed, I had no trouble at all gravity bleeding it, I realize situations vary. I wouldn't even consider replacing the slave cylinder to remedy this situation unless it had been leaking excessively. Keep us posted. Good luck.

 

well dudes, I used a bit of everyones advice, and the system seemed to bleed out well. Pedal went back to having the same action it always had. So I go to test drive and no go at all. In fact, seems like its stuck in 4th or 5th gear and only limited movement in the shifter. In 1st & 2nd gear position it just burns clutch material. So got a feeling something else is amiss. Gearbox has/had fluid and trans performed perfectly until this all happened. Open for any thoughts here. But think I may be hosed here. Anyway, thanks for the great help thusfar.

 

Remove the inspection plug from the tranny, and look inside while someone else pushes the clutch pedal. You can see the t/o bearing moving. It MUST move at least .425". If it doesn't, you still have air in the line. Until it moves that far, it won't work properly.

I have a custom little tool that I made that I use to measure the travel. It's basically some plumbers tape riveted to a 4" piece of an aluminum ruler. Looks like the letter "T". It allows me to see precisely how much the travel is.

 

I see 2 possibilities. The transmission is goofed up. OR The fluid is not releasing back into master cylinder, keeping the clutch partially DISengaged when the pedal is let out, thus the slipping in 1st and 2nd gear. Could be a defective master cylinder or or a bad line between the master and slave cylinder not allowing the fluid to go back into the master cylinder when the clutch pedal is let out. How does the transmission shift when the engine is shut off?

 

same shifting prob when shut off.. but check this out, the only way the truck will move is with the shifter in neutral position, which is either in 4th or 5th gear. Now, if you shut the engine off then its basically in neutral again. I did look at the throwout with another person clutching and it seems to be moving enough, I will try the measuring trick though... thanks again.

 

I only have two thoughts for you 1. is the master cylinder the correct one ? If they gave you the wrong one it could be that it does not have enough pressure to move the clutch a sufficient amount. 2. It almost sounds like your shifter poped out of the fork that it sits in and now is not shifting into the correct gear the only way I know to check this would be to pop the top off the tranny and look.
Hope this helps

Steve

 

Just remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter onto the top of the transmission and look inside to see if all three slots in the shifter rods are lined up. If not, use a big screwdriver and line them up.

 

Ok guys will try making a measuring device and peek in thru the top... I just cant believe the trans can be poofed, it shifted so well. Will keep you posted. Thanks again

 

ok guys, weather finally allowed me to push on. I am 90% certain the clutch is working ok. But before I get any farther, I took the top off the trans (as steell said to), and yeah the slots are out of wack (shifter was removed in neut position). But the screwdriver trick isnt producing any results in lining back up. Any other tips on this??? Thanks JJF

 

Great News! stepped back and had a beer, then tryed algining the shifter rod slots again and they popped right in place. Bolted all back together and we are on the road again!!! I want to thank all who helped me with this. If your ever in Spring Green WI, the rounds are on me!!!!!!! JJF

 

Cool glad to hear you got her going

Steve