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You will need to remove all of the EEC-III stuff and find a engine harness for the dura spark II,it will plug in and work. If you cant find a harness for a V8 a 6 cylinder will work as thats what I used on my 82 F250 and only had to shorten or lengthen a couple of wires to the sending units,if I can remember correctly all 302s used non computer carbs untill they went to EFI and the sixes used the non computer carbs untill 84 or 85 as I know 86s had the carb with the EFI type distributor with a computer. If you need a harness let me know as I can probably find one in a junkyard near me. Jeff
You are refering to the harness that goes from the ECM to the distributor, coil, oil and water sending units correct?
I already have that and have no spark.
I have an available VV 7200 carb . I'm not going to use it on this truck. The carb works fine, but the computer (DS-III) runs the carb RICH and the timing runs waay too advanced when it gets warm.
On my 83 F250 we converted to the dura spark II, that meant using methods frowned upon, disabling the computer, removing and replacing the distributor, as well as the ignition box, we had a complete harness from an earlier truck (74-78 I believe), so I ended up with an edelbrock 1406, on an edelbrock manifold, an ignition system from 75', and we also removed the ECM, thinned out the harness....
it was a week end project, and that means 2 10 hour days....
but if the VV needs replacing, the options are limited
if you used an ignition system from a ‘75 it is technically not a duraspark Ford still called it SSI the control is different than Duraspark
Sorry for the old thread bump. Just rebuild my VV carb on my ‘82 F150 302. Reinstalled and when running it is dumping gas out of the port circled in red. Looking at the parts diagram I’m not seeing what is below this. Before I pull it apart again, any ideas? Float stuck maybe?
If it keeps sticking and overflowing, even though you keep taking it apart, you might have fuel tank problems. Little rust flakes get in under the float needle and hold it open. When you take the carb apart, look down in the bottom of the bowl and check for brown rust.
If it keeps sticking and overflowing, even though you keep taking it apart, you might have fuel tank problems. Little rust flakes get in under the float needle and hold it open. When you take the carb apart, look down in the bottom of the bowl and check for brown rust.
What fuel pump you running?
Could be to much psi for that carb.
Dave ----
If it keeps sticking and overflowing, even though you keep taking it apart, you might have fuel tank problems. Little rust flakes get in under the float needle and hold it open. When you take the carb apart, look down in the bottom of the bowl and check for brown rust.
The bowl was pretty clean when I got the air horn off. Of course, I still cleaned the crap out of it and used compressed air anyways. The needle provided in the GP Sorensen kit was a little longer and I didn’t replace it. I’ll take it apart again today, replace the needle (bend the tabs to correct for the new length) and double check float height. Thanks for the info all!
What fuel pump you running?
Could be to much psi for that carb.
Dave ----
I replaced the fuel pump earlier this year. Looked like a direct replacement from what I was pretty sure was the original. This is the one:
The truck has 74k original miles on it. Been fighting a poor running condition which has deteriorated and I finally bit the bullet to rebuild the carb. I miss the simple carb on my F100 (not CA truck!)
Carb rebuild all good, thanks for the ideas. Stuck float was the culprit. Replaced the needle and reset the float to spec, no more gas everywhere! Carb seems to be running well.
Still have the stalling issue which I’ll try to find in another thread. I believe it’s electrical in nature. Thanks again for the tips everyone!
Alright, revisiting this. Have tested much of the electrical and don't believe the stalling is electrical related. On a whim I pulled the wire going to the automatic choke and it stopped stalling. The housing was very hot to the touch. Checked when running and that wire is getting 14 volts consistently. I'm not familiar with this choke and wondering if something is broken inside causing it to engage the choke at random times and stalling the engine out. With the wire off the choke housing it cooled rapidly but when I stopped the engine it would not restart. When putting the wire back on it started up immediately. Is this a serviceable part?
1982 F150 with 302, EEC3 and Duraspark 3. I'm in CA and this has been a CA truck all its life.
Alright, revisiting this. Have tested much of the electrical and don't believe the stalling is electrical related. On a whim I pulled the wire going to the automatic choke and it stopped stalling. The housing was very hot to the touch. Checked when running and that wire is getting 14 volts consistently. I'm not familiar with this choke and wondering if something is broken inside causing it to engage the choke at random times and stalling the engine out. With the wire off the choke housing it cooled rapidly but when I stopped the engine it would not restart. When putting the wire back on it started up immediately. Is this a serviceable part?
1982 F150 with 302, EEC3 and Duraspark 3. I'm in CA and this has been a CA truck all its life.
The choke should be receiving only 7V from the ALT STATOR. If you see 14V (BAT VOLT) something is not correctly wired or you have a system fault.
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