Intermittent Vibrations...
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New User
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Intermittent Vibrations...
About a year ago I had my truck into the dealer for an intermittent vibration problem (Truck = 99 f250EC, 7.3SD, 4x4). After keeping it for ~30 days, swap-shooting about everything they could on the front auto 4x4 vacuum system, they gave me my truck back, and a bill for >$1000. The problem I have now is the truck has started doing it again. All that aside, is it possible to change the autolock hub setup to a manual lock system without causing additional problems?? And what should I expect as the approximate costs of such a change??
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
When does the vibration start? After you take it out of 4WD? If so, the hubs could still be engaged. When this happens then you can hit a bump for example and the lockouts could disengage. Have seen that happen. When the vibration starts, and with the tcase disengaged (or in 2WD with ESOF) have you gotten under the truck to see if the driveshaft spins freely?
Did they find any shavings in the lockout and/or the hub?
Did they find any shavings in the lockout and/or the hub?
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I wish it were that simple. The vibrations starts intermittently while driving around the block, and it doesn't take much or long to start. And your "hit a bump" remark is accurate, it seems to come and go with road surface conditions. As for the TC engauged??... I didn't check, but I will. The shop replaced the hubs... twice, replaced the vac solenoid, and all seals.... they said. It appeared to work until the last weekend of the hunting season in Jan 2004... on my way home the vibration started again. You got a phone number?? Interested in a phone call?? I want to get this fixed, for the last time, and the best way to do that is to do it myself... if possible. BTW, thanks for the timely response. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
These sort of things can make you pull your hair out...and the mechanics at the dealership/auto shop also. It is important that you check things as they happen. (like a Service Engine light that comeson/goes off) I realize that's not always possible, but if you can it could save you on Rogaine. 
I doubt that a phone call would help and, who knows, posting here may solve it, if someone comes along who has dealt with something like this before.
Right now, just check the driveshaft when the tcase is disengaged, check the axles at the knuckles, make sure they spin freely.
It could be something altogether different. Hang on, there will be another FTE'er along shortly.
I doubt that a phone call would help and, who knows, posting here may solve it, if someone comes along who has dealt with something like this before.
Right now, just check the driveshaft when the tcase is disengaged, check the axles at the knuckles, make sure they spin freely.
It could be something altogether different. Hang on, there will be another FTE'er along shortly.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5
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From: Indiana
Mine did the same thing last fall. After replacing the hubs it helped but not for long. It ended up being the needle bearing that holds the outer half shaft. If you grab the u-joint and it has alot of play up and down then check out your bearing.
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99 F350 4x4 PSD 3.73 ls
97 F150 4x4 4.6l
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99 F350 4x4 PSD 3.73 ls
97 F150 4x4 4.6l
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You guys have been a lot of help. Thanks to all. I did find the problem. The main axle tube coming from the differential terminates just before hitting the back of the spindle housing. From that termination point the axle continues thru the spindle, thru the hub and rotor, and terminates where the hub locks are located. Now back up... where the tube terminates and the axle continues there is a bearing and seal assembly, not easily seen or even considered in most cases. When I tugged on the end of the axle shaft (thanks 99pstroke4x4) the entire shaft wiggled... excessively... and it appears the shaft bearing may have allowed additioal damage after inspecting the inner splines of the hub locks. And the dealer said..... "a new shaft runs ~$600, you may be looking at new hubs too, plus bearings and labor... you'll be looking at right around $1600-2000, including labor." Man, I'm in the wrong line of work!! I need to wear a sign that says "Just kick me!"
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oxnard CA
Why don't you go back to the dealer and ask them for a refund or a credit on all the work that was done by them that DIDN'T fix the problem in the first place. It's amazing how the dealers will always give you a bill for what they thought they fixed instead of refunding your money when it turns out they didn't fix it.
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You are at least the third person that has suggested that particular course of action. I don't know what they'll do in response, but for personal plesure I'm definitely going to pay them a visit... just to watch them scramble and squrim... ;-)
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Under a rock in PA
They will tell you they checked it and it was fine on the last visit. Then just point out that you would like to see where checking that was listed on the service invoice. I had a dealership play games with me while i still had my RAM 1500. If all else fails, make a big scene in the service area when a lot of other customers can hear it. You can also contact the area rep for ford and complain a storm over the previous work not being needed. Some dealerships are good and same are not.
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Big Orn... the bearings turned out to be fine. I took it to the shop to have them looked at and the mech saidhe couoldn't find anything wrong with them... they always wiggle like that with the locking hub removed... so Im back to square one. I have isolated the problem to the hubs though. All I do is pull them and put them back on, and the truck runs fine for a couple days... no vibration. I'm leaning towards a manual hub swap. Know of any good info links on that subject??
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 64
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From: up state VT
outback, the dealer is probably right. You said you had excessive play in your axle shaft, search this site and you will find a lot of guys with empty wallets because of the same problem. I just had a freind bring me his SD with the same problem and thanx to this site, I showed him his problem. Not good. His Balljoints went, hub bearings went, took out his seals which took out his inner bearing which took out his axle shaft. If you go to the dealer, plan on $1000 to $2000 per side depending how many kids the dealer has in college. You can do it yourself for a lot less and you may even be able to rebuild the axle shaft if you are real crafty, but in any event its a job. Do a search and you'll get a lot of info here, these guys are great. Good luck
