65/66 F-100(guy dont know the year for sure) its a 2wd longbed. Bed on it is excellent shape. Frame has just surface rust and is pretty solid. Has a running I6(not sure if its a 170, 300 or what), 3 on the tree working. Has been restored probly in the mid 80s and hasnt gotten too rough. Had a minor accident up front and needs a new fender, grill, bumper, hood *maybe*, and thats about it. Radiator support and inner fender didnt get damaged and are still good. Thanks to the battery the tray and inner fender on the passenger side has been eaten through. Truck is complete all in all. Cab needs a little bodywork here and there from misc. dents and dings, needs partial floor pans, cab corners looked pretty solid to me. And basically needs a general restoration for like carpet, door handles, trim, chrome, paint, etc. Also the glass is pretty good on it. Doors are fair condition. I can get the truck for 400 bucks w/ a bill of sale. Junkyard owner lost the title and had just parked it in the yard since he messed up the front and didnt feel like fixing it. So what are your guys thoughts, any big issues with these trucks? I would be getting it running to move around the yard but parking it in the backyard for probly about 2 years till i graduate from NTI and can start restoring it to a driven showtruck type deal, mostly stock. Probly even keep the I6.

 

Machfather;
The only concern's I would have is the acid damage too any parts of the frame; also the grill is not a reproduce item so you'll have to find a donor or buy one off someone; also look at the cab mounts, I think any solid Slick or Effies are getting harder to find for a low price; also are you able to reconstruct a Title?
There's always parts to consider value from a junk yard truck as well.

C.C.

 

I can get a title no problem. National Parts Depot carries the grills. The fender I believe I can just get the front half from National Parts Depot to repair it b/c its just the part infront of the wheelwell.

 

Well, $400 is probably not a bad price, if truely the damage that you report is the full extent of it. The 65/66 trucks are better in some ways, as you can swap to power disk brakes, power steering if you like, much much easier than 61-64. The long bed is less desireable in the open market, but maybe you like long beds. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!!

I would be very careful to look at the following spots: 1) rear cab corners. Get dirty, crawl under and stick a pick into the metal from under the cab. 2) Ends of rear cab supports -- right under the step at the doors. This channel was unfortunately left closed, so it built up with dirt and is rusted out almost always to a greater or lesser extent. If the rust it through (appears about at same point as the front of the seat) the floor area will need reconstructing. No parts are available, but is is flat steel. 3) Door posts -- Under the lower door hinge is a dead end trap where stuff builds up. IMHO, a rusted out door post is the single hardest repair that you can have to deal with. Don't go there. If you have even a little showing, there will be LOTS more behind the fender. 4) Front cab supports You can see them from inside the fender well. If they are sagging or rusted out, they can be replaced, BUT it is evidence that a helluva lot of rust is hanging around. 5) Core support: 65 and 66 are year specific. They can run 300 - 400 for decent ones, and are not (and likely never will be) available aftermarket. Look this over very carefully, especially at the lower edges, behind the grill and under the radiator.

Other things to consider: I am not sure about aftermarket grille -- I would watch ebay for that like a hawk and grab one there for maybe $100. Battery box is NOT available aftermarket -- the ones that eveyone lists are WRONG. I bought from 3 different places, all wrong!!! I got a decent one off eBay for $20 -- got lucky I think.

It also depends what you goals are. If you want to eventually do a serious restoration, then you should listen up to what I just said -- getting "tin" that is in good shape is FAR FAR more important than anything else. There are trucks in very good condition without motors or trannys that go very cheap. They are your best deals for a major restore. Engines and trannys are easy to swap. Unless you are a straight six lover like me, you probably will want to ditch the 6 for an 8 eventually anyhow!

If you want to pick up a running truck cheap, get her going and not worry about the hidden rust too much, then ignore what I said. In the end, $400 may be a decent price to pay for the truck just for parts if you are into this sort of truck.

Post back about anything you have thoughts about. The 65/66 trucks are neat in many ways and someone here will have an answer for just about every question.

Oh -- also, the engine is a 240 or 300, which are identical, but for the stroke. That is a great engine and basically was used up until 1996, with the last years being fuel injected. It is very tough and long lived. Parts are all very available, but it will probably run fine with minor care. Because the frame of the 65 and 66 are essentially identical to 67-78, there are a number of neat engine swaps that are really easy -- like 460s etc. Just FYI

 

T.McF.

First off the engine will either be a 240/300 series Big block I-6 in F series trucks. Not the 144/170/200 series Small block I-6's which were used in 'Stangs, Falcons, Rancheros, etc.
This series of Big block I-6 are vertually bullet proof & given the correct performance package you can easly get 500hp out of a 300 I-6.
The $400.00 tag is excellent, grab it before it gets away. That kind a damage should be rather easy & not to costly to fix.

 

Check and compare with the ads here, not just saying that because I just listed two trucks, the classifieds are fun and educational. Okay, it is just a plug, cause if I dont sell something, I might part out, and I have a swell '65 grille, for instance. Check the ads here and anywhere, and eBay, for a sense of market prices, particularly for stuff in your area (to save on shipping). Good luck.

 

FWIW,

DO NOT PARK A VEHICLE ON GRASS OR EARTH FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF TIME

Both earth and especially plants emit corrosive gasses. By their very nature of photosynthesis plants produce Oxygen, and grass is a plant. If you have to store it, store it on pavement, or gravel with some 6mil polyethelene sheet as barrier & gas/ moisture stop.

The 6 mil poly sheet solution does not work on soil because the gasses build up under it and seep in a emitting stream under one particular spot over a fold, or preforation in the sheet.

Parking a partially rusted, even surface rusted vehicle over common soil and grasses for a couple years is a big mistake.

Many people never heard of this, and others have a tough time understanding it. But go into the autorestoration business & you will get a quick education about the ravages of outdoor storage on soil, earth & grass surfaces.

FBp

 

I know for sure grass is a killer I think it has something to do with the oxygen it prduces.

 

S.1

O2 is extremely corrosive to metal, the more highly consentrated in a single area the worse it'll be.