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Need help with brake problem

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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 08:07 AM
  #1  
Rayolight's Avatar
Rayolight
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Need help with brake problem

I just bought a 1992 F250 XLT with the HD package Nice truck but the brakes suck!! New rotors in front with new shoes and pads! This work was done by the preivous owner! The issue is if you need to stop you must pump the pedal quite a few times to get the vehicle to stop, on panick stops the pedal goes to the floor! Now sometimes theres pressure but most of the time there is none! I've bled the whole system and still not much improvement! Have checked for leaks and have kept it topped with fluid! I know th RABS valve could be bad but the symptoms
I have found on this site and others dont quite match what mine is doing! I bought a new master cylinder, should I replace it and see what happens?? If anyone has any Ideas for the new guy!
I sure would accept them!!!!
Thanks
Rayolight
 
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 09:07 AM
  #2  
88n94's Avatar
88n94
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I would say either the rear brake shoes need to be adjusted tighter or the master cylinder needs replacing.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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I agree with above I just did the rear shoes and did not adjust properly and had the same problem. Going to adjust them now.

Chris
 
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 04:25 PM
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Rear brakes are supposto be self adjusting when you use them in reverse.

as for the pedal havein no presure, definatly a master cylinder problem.

and remember, RABS IS REAR ANTI LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM.
Only for the rear, not the front.
and it never works anyways. but ABS is junk most of the time.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 04:38 PM
  #5  
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The rear shoes must be adjusted manually after a brake job to get them close. As for RABS not working most of the time, just remember that these trucks are 8-17 years old, and things go bad over time. I don't think that everyone's abs is broken, and when working properly, it certainly isn't "junk."
 
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 05:20 PM
  #6  
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could just need to bleed the brakes
 
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:41 PM
  #7  
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and remember, RABS IS REAR ANTI LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM.
Only for the rear, not the front.
and it never works anyways. but ABS is junk most of the time. [/B]
ABS on all four wheels seems more logical, have them on my Lincoln as well as my Intercepter and ABS seems fine, though its not my preference.

What I don't understand is why only on the rear. I realize the back is lighter than the front thus more prone to lockup, however its an absolutely bizarre "feature" to lock the fronts up, but not the rears.

Me, I yanked the cable off the ABS module and took the light bulb out of the cluster. I'm perfectly capable of pumping the brakes the "old fashioned" way.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:54 PM
  #8  
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Egor
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From: Tillamook, Ore
I got in a rush when I put new shoes on my F250, and didn't adjust them up close. My pedal went to the floor and couldn't hardly stop. I figured the self adjusters would tighten them up, but no go. Had to do it manually then all was good.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 06:39 AM
  #9  
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I think the logic with only rear abs is that keeping the rear from locking up will keep the truck in a straight line. If the rears locked up, the back end would catch up with the front, which would not be pleasant, especially with a trailer.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 08:24 PM
  #10  
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just a thought, but you may have a broken diaphagm in your power brake booster. If your not getting a good vacumn inside your booster, your pedal could go all the way to the ground
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 08:32 PM
  #11  
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A bad master cylinder would make your brake pedal go all the way to the ground. That doe not mean that the other suggestions above should not be followed up.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 08:43 PM
  #12  
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skyhawk's right, I was just thinking that if you lost your vacumn at your power booster, you'd have no pressure to the master cylinder.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 12:22 AM
  #13  
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If the brake booster loses vacuum, it just means you have to push the master cylinder with your foot. The pedal should get stiffer and harder to push, not bottom out.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 07:06 PM
  #14  
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EPNCSU is correct, if the booster is bad the brake pedal is like a rock, almost need to use both feet the depress the pedal. The master cylinder has a seal on the back side that could leak fluid into the booster, check to make sure your not losing fliud that way. Also check to make sure the proportioning valve on the frame is working.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:46 PM
  #15  
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Hey Ray,

If you already bought the new master cylinder. You might as well put it on. They're cheap and easy to change out. Don't forget to bench bleed it before you hook the lines back up.
 
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