I know not exactly a ford truck but mostly the same. My problem is that it will crank like a dream, but refuses to turn over. Or if it does start and run, it will die after driving for a little bit, and it takes atleast 10 minutes before it will start again.

1. I have completely eliminated any problem concerning the fuel input.
2. I have had the modulator, and pick up tested. Both are good.
3. I have replaced the alternator after it tested bad at only 11 volts output. I also replaced the solenoid just in case haha.
4. The battery cables were kinda rickety so I replace them as well.

After testing pickup and such I took it to a friends shop to be timed and let him see if he could find out what was wrong. When he checked fire at the coil he had it, but not at the distributor. He replaced the coil wire, got the bronco purring again. Brought it home and the battery went down again. (sorry forgot that part) The battery voltage gauge has been reading in the red since this all started happening. I have had it tested and charged now twice. It seems that each time it is charged it will work better, but the full charge doesn't last too long. Something somewhere is stealing power but it only kills the truck, when running, after a little time.
I am thinking maybe a fuseable link or maybe a faulty relay in the ignition sequence somewhere. I have just got the wiring diagrams from the local library and will be going through them tonight. Just hoping someone else may have run across this before, and would really appreciate the help.

ty in advance.

 

try the starter i have a bad starter kill the battery before when i put a new starter on everything came out just fine.

 

sounds like a bad alternator to me. if the guage is in the red it isn't putting out enough voltage should be around 14V-15V. i've seen a few new jobber alternators that were crap. a bad alternator can kill the battery when not running. you could check it for draw by unhooking a battery terminal and conecting a test light between the battery post and wire. if it lights up current is being drawn. to find the bad circuit start pulling fuses until the test light goes out or unhook the main(red) alternator wire. make sure all accesories(including dome light) are off if you do this test

 

I've been having similar problems. My 88 f250 cranks and cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel, my relays are fine and I can hear the pumps pressurizing. I'm also getting good spark from the coil and from the wires. I've replaced the ignition module, ignition switch, and rewired my map sensor. I've had a diagnostic run and all my sensors are working, so I'm lost. If i'm getting spark and fuel, it should start, but it's not. I've been thinking that maybe my injectors aren't opening. I think their controlled by the ECM. Does this sound like a possibility to anyone???

 

montangrunt
check your timing. the distributor gear may have spun on the shaft just enough to screw everything up. get a set of noid lights to check for injector pulse. try spraying starter fluid in the intake and cranking it if it starts you got a fuel problem. i've seen new modules that wouldn't fire the injectors. good luck with this

 

77redf250, could you take me step by step on how to check the distributor gear and check the injector pulse. I've never done anything like that before. Thanks, I appreciate it

 

if you put a timing light on it you'll be able to tell because it will be all over the place. another possibility is the timing chain jumped a few teeth this will also throw the timing off. to use a noid light all you do is unplug the electrical conector from an injector, plug the light into the wiring harness. now watch the light as a buddy turns the key the light should flash. to check the timing unplug the spout connector (1 or 2 wire connector) coming off the distributer harness. the timing specs should be on your hood sticker i think they are either 8 or 10 degree before top dead center. i hope you get this thing working