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I have a '94 Supercab Ranger with a 2.3L, 5 spd that just turned over 267000 miles. Within the last week I've experienced a higher than usual startup idle (no tach, so not sure of actual rpm, just going by sound). It throttles back after a couple of seconds, but still seems a little high. Also, the engine seems to race a bit whenever I step on the clutch. Only recent repairs were in December. Failed the TX emissions test during inspection. Replaced plugs, wires, and eventually had a high efficiency catalytic converter installed to bring her into spec. Otherwise, she continues to be a great ride. Not sure where to start, so any ideas are apprecitated. Thanks.
Yeah, pulling the codes is VERY simple. I've got an Actron CP-9015 code scanner which comes with an XLNT instruction manual. Call around to some auto parts stores & you should be able to find one for about 35 bucks. Take a couple of minutes to read the manual & a couple more minutes to pull the codes. The other option is to take a look at the "technical info sticky" & click on the link provided by KenOO for pulling EEC-4 codes with a VOM. Once you get the codes, post it/them here.
Found the code scanner you mentioned at PepBoys for $30. Unfortunately they didn't have any in stock. I'm supposed to check back at the end of the week. In the mean time, I performed the TPS checks called out the the Haynes Ranger 1993-1997 manual. The key on, engine off voltage checks looked good and the sensor resistance check was right on too. Leads me to believe that my problem doesn't lie in the TPS. Do you have any other ideas that I can look at before the scanner comes in and I have a chance to pull codes?
You could make sure that the throttle plate is closing all the way & isnt gunked up. Any vacuum leaks will cause a high idle. If this was mine, i'd hook up a vacuum gauge & see if that gave me any clues.
If the computer is having a problem with the idle air control valve it will set a code, but that will have to wait til you get the scanner. As you say, it sounds like the TPS is not the culprit.
I found it. There's some sort of cannister right next to the battery with 2 hoses and 2 small caps on it. One is a smaller diameter hose that snakes down passed the oil filter and then along the frame towards the back of the truck. The other hose is about 3 times the size of the smaller one and runs back to something under the throttle body (couldn't see what it was and couldn't find any picture or diagram in my manual identifying it). Anyway, the hose was off at the throttle body end. Can only imagine that I worked it loose when I changed out the plugs and plug wires back in December and it finally worked itself the rest of the way off over the last month and a half. I put the hose back on and now she runs smooth as can be again. Curiosity has me wondering what the little cannister by the battery is and what that larger diameter hose is going to. Any idea? By the way, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Good deal, glad to hear it's fixed. The canister traps fuel vapors when the engine is off. Start the engine & the vapor is sucked into the throttle body & burned.
I spoke too soon. Started my truck this morning and the higher rpm idle was back. For the hose I found off, it doesn't make sense that that would have been the cause of my problem anyway, does it? Thanks for the info on the cannister. It's always good to learn something new. Anyway, back to my problem. In my gut I feel like it's a vacuum related problem. I've got errands to run today that include picking up that code scanner. I think I'll invest the money and pick up a vacuum gauge as well. I looked in my Haynes manual and couldn't find anything about vacuum hoses, connections, or routings. Where would be some good locations to measure the pressure and about how many psi should I expect to be seeing?
So it's back to square one, bummer. The vacuum reading depends on the condition of your engine, on my 87 2.9 with 221k i get 18 inches. The main thing is that it's steady I hook the gauge up to the fitting where a trans modulator hose would go if I had a PITA automatic.
Sorry I haven't responded sooner, been on the road the past week. Had about 20 psi, so for lack of a better idea, I loaded the shotgun and went hunting. Long story short, there's a hose running to the under side of the intake that's routed over the fuel rail (near it's schraeder valve, to what I think is the pcv valve if I'm looking at the Haynes manual right) that pushing down on the hose caused the idle problem to go away. According to the troubleshooting guide in the manual, a sticking pcv valve will cause erratic idling, so my that's my guess at this point. I'm a little reluctant to pull the pcv valve for cleaning/replacement since the truck is running great. If it flairs up again, that's where I'm heading first. Thanks for your help on this. It's been a learning experience.
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