Hello All....I have a 2002 (1600 miles) f350 w/o the camper package installed, I would like to put a 8 or nine foot camper on the truck do I need to install the rear sway bar and blocks ? It will be a newer model Lance I think. the dealer also stated it will cost about 800.00 to install the hardware for installation , is this a fair price or am I being taken....thanks....Jim

 

Well the bar is fairly cheap. Around $120-140. Blocks and U-bolts will not make up the difference in the $800!! Sounds a bit high but then I have nothing to compare it to.

Does that price include the electricals? The camper package has a plug in the bed. What about that bar that I see on guy's frame twoards the front of the bed? Does the price include bolting that on?

Seems that most of it is an easy thing to do for someone with normal mechanical skills and some quality hand tools...


Why do you need blocks?

 

Just a note- there's no plug in the bed that comes with the factory camper package.

I think/hope the $800 is to purchase & install all the camper "stuff"... like the plug in the bed, frame-mounted tie-downs and whatever else is needed for a big box. As to whether that's cheap or not, you'll have to ask someone who has done it. Or, call around and get prices from different shops.

As for the anti-sway bar & blocks, I really like the Hellwig bar that I installed. But, instead of blocks, you might consider air bags. Outpost22 uses them and says they work great hauling his camper.

 

do I need to install the rear sway
>bar and blocks ? It will be a newer model Lance I think. the
>dealer also stated it will cost about 800.00 to install the
>hardware for installation , is this a fair price or am I
>being taken....thanks....Jim

The sway bar is a good idea, no matter what you use the truck for, as it can only help. The second best thing is load-leveling air bags (cost installed is around $300-$350.00. You may control ride height and sway by adjusting air pressure in the bags. If your camper is an 8', you can install the fill valves in the rear license plate bracket. If the camper is 9', don't install the valves there because you won't be able to adjust them with the camper mounted on the truck. Put the valves on the RIGHT side of the truck (not the fuel filler door on the left as others do). Mine are on the far right of the rear bumper. This way if you have to fill them on the side of the road some day, your butt won't be hanging out in traffic and you'll be "roadkill"

The $800.00 install by the dealer is a rip-off. Mine did all the wiring, and Happi-jack system, set-up for $350.00 and they've been doing it for 25 years. Torque-Lift tie downs are an even better set-up, but I was warned of possible "side load frame vs. warranty" issues from my dealer. (I think it was b.s.) but since the truck was brand new, I flinched.

The next best investment (especially if you go the 9' model) are good fully adjustable shocks. You might try your camper first with only air bags (ride-rite by Firestone or Air Spring are both good brands). I like the Rancho 9000's due to their extreme adjustability, other shocks won't give you this flexibilty in camper use which is usually "fully loaded" or "fully unloaded".

As far as the camper choice goes, get the Lance in as large a model as you can afford (9' is better than 8'and 10' is even BETTER). I spent 2 months in Alaska in an 8' camper. Now that I've got an 11', I'm really spoiled in comfort (see gallery).

Sorry for the long post, I just got carried away

 

>Just a note- there's no plug in the bed that comes with the
>factory camper package.


No kiddin'? Where the heck did I see that? Sorry for the mis-info!

 

thanks for the help, for the 800 they were going to weld tie-downs and install some "bar" and do electrical, but I still thought it was high, I will check with other rv sites to get the best price, I think I will install air-bags too...thanks all

 

>Where the heck did I see that?

You probably thought it because half (or more) of the Super Duty trucks have a plug in the bed... either for a camper, 5th-wheel or goose-neck trailer. But they were all done by the owners, not Ford.

 

Outpost22 pretty much summed up my thoughts on campers. You can check out the Tork lift frame mounted tie downs at www.torklift.com . If you haven't gone yet, go to the slide-in camper forum over at www.irv2.com . All your questions have been answered there in detail.


Harald

2000 F350 4x4 CC DRW V10 4.30ls Lariat LWB.
Firestone Ride-rite airbags, Rancho RS9000 shocks and Torklift Superhitch.
1998 Alpenlite Pendelton 11'10" camper held on by Torklift tie downs.

 

Howdy. I posted my message in the wrong spot first time.
$800 bucks for camper bars and wiring WOW!! Were they gonna kiss ya first?
I put my bars on for the cost of the bars in the driveway in about 3 hours. I ran a pig tail from the hitch to the camper plug, easy and no holes in the box.
What are using under your camper to get it to clear the cab? I almost took out a clearence light (you should of heard my wife holler, she was in the cab when I let the camper down for the first time )I ended up with 3/4 inch plywood, 4x4's and 1x4's. I plan to improve on my design this year though.
A set of sway bars is a must. I built a 78 C/C up and the first time I put my 10.5" camper on and went through the mountains I thought I was gonna lose the whole thing (slowing down might have helped but thats no fun). Put the front and rear bars on from 76 camper special and it was a new truck.
My 01 dually has the camper package and with the camper up so hi I have to keep the water tank full or I can feel some sway.
Gord S

 

had the happi-jacks put on this morning, cost me 300 for parts and installation....minus the turnbuckles (100 bucks for them) I guess next is the sway bar.......jim