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Rotella T is API SL rated, use it. The phosphorus limits only apply to ISLAC GF-3, not SL itself. 0W, 5W and 10W are the only grades covered qualify for the "starburst" and GF ratings. 15W is rated for cold cranking down to +5F.
I have used Chevron Delo 15W-40 for years with fantastic results, based on oil analysis and passing smog checks with flying colors. Oil is hard on cats only if you are burning it. Which is better, more burned oil going thru the cats with a lower percentage (1000ppm) of phosphorus, or almost no oil being burned with a slightly higher (1200ppm) phosphorus content?
Ash content is important for certain heavy duty engine designs, such as natural gas and two-stroke diesel. That is why it is listed for "fleet" oils that are likely to be used in those applications. Ash content somewhat proportional to the TBN of the oil.
my buddy put over 200,000 miles on his 85 f150 4wd in the inline six engine, using fleet 15w40 oils. he put it thru the wringer pulling boats and campers and raising hell otherwise with it. it still runs fine, i might just buy it. he had got rotella from another friend, and i believe we have citgo where i work that i give to him. it helped stop the truck from using oil and slowed the seeping gaskets
What would ash do in order to benifit an engine? My impression would be ash is dirt in the oil? I'm sure its not dirt in the oil. Interested in knowing how ash helps an oil for NG or 2 stroke.
We use Rotella-T in our diesel engines at work,that says it has soot control.Would that be the same as ash?I just never heard of the ash properties before.
Originally posted by peppy What would ash do in order to benifit an engine? My impression would be ash is dirt in the oil? I'm sure its not dirt in the oil. Interested in knowing how ash helps an oil for NG or 2 stroke.
It is not dirt, but residue left over if the oil burns. Those engines sometimes specify "low ash" oils. There is no problem with four-stroke engines that are not worn to the point that oil burning is a problem. Ash levels are a byproduct of the additves in oil. This is separate from the phosphorus and cat converter issue.
Have been a Mobil 1 and Drive Clean user for quite some time. Tomorrow I'm changing my oil, and I'm going with the Mobil Delvac 15w40. Now, do I go with the synthetic or Dino? Most my driving is country roads for 8-12 miles at a time. Rarely do I tow anything or beat it off road. It will surely be hot here in South Texas before my next change. I think Dino, unless Synthetic isnt much more in price. Ofcourse, the Napa/Wix filter.
I thought I would just share in my possible conversion to diesel oil in my gas truck.
So I've been running 30w for a while. I did do the 15w40 thing. Now it seems I have a little valve train rattle sometimes. Could this oil be too think and not flowing well? I wouldnt think so, but something seems a little odd.
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