I am gearing up getting ready to fab up my own flatbed. I want something that i can still put suff on (4-wheelers, firewood, truck parts) but when i am off-road I wanna be able to see better. SO i was thinking something like real thick grate like what's used on ramps for trailers and lawn care trucks! I was just gonna remove it completely but this is my DD so it wouldn't be very street legal. Any suggestions would really help! Thanx fellas....and it's good to be back after a short 'vacation'

-jason-

 

I've been thinking of doing a flatbed also, I just havent figured out how yet. I want to do mine because I shortened my truck to a 98 inch wheel base and the cut down bed kind of looks funny.


P.S.Good to have you back from your 'vacation'.

 

I've seen some thing done with bent tubing including spare holders etc. You could snag an atv trailer with the grating bottom and ramps and use that for the bottom and ramps using tubing to finish it off.

 

any other suggestions?

-jason-

 

I made a bed out of 1/8 x 3 inch steel channel to make a box and used 2x10 pressure treated wood for the floor and sides. I left about 1/4 inch between the floor boards and one inch between the sides and floor. That way I can wash it out easily with the hose and slip chains under the wall sides to attach things I do not want stolen too easily out of the bed. Great for attaching straps to things too.

On the vertical pieces of steel I attached eyelets for helping tie stuff down. I put 1/8 steel plate at the front of the bed to protect me and the cab and reinforced it with 1x1x1/8 square tubing. My winch is in the bed.

Works great, I have winched 31 inch logs in the bed of my truck. Very sturdy and would be great for a ATV if I ever had one. Great if you like to sleep in the back of your truck when camping.

 

Great bed man! I need something like that.

 

hmmm....got any pics? can the boards be removed fairly easily for highier visibility?

-jason-

 

Yes, I have some pictures (undeveloped) I can scan in with the truck loaded with wood. I will try to get them on-line by Tuesay. You can remove any side board just by undoing (4) bolts, two at each end. The bed planks can not easy to remove because they are bolted in six places (2 bolts - front rear middle).

I am going to build a newer box, God willing, within the next month. It will be 78Wx76Lx31H. This will give me over 100 cubic feet and run over the rear axle so I do not need fenders (my truck was a F-100 step side.

I am building the bottom cross members of 4x4x1/8 tubing to raise the bed. This will give me more room to run 35s under the flatbed. I can put an aftermarket gas tank under the bed and still tuck it 100% into the frame rail, and I am going to store my tools such as the high lift jack under the bed width wise across the frame.

The other reason for doing this is I am going to mount my roll bar and roof racks to the 4x4 tubing by cutting holes in the top, sliding the steel round tube (2"x.120) into the 4x4 tube and welding it at the top. The front cross member will be unnotched, the rest of the cross members will be notched over the frame so it makes the bed level front to rear without wedges like I used in my first box (live and learn). The uprights 1/8 x 3 x 31 will be placed inside the 4x4 and welded in like the roll bar tubing. Should be extremely sturdy. Reason for doing this is my box will double as extra seating off-road and I do not want the roll bar, roll cage, or bed moving in case of a roll over. Plus, you never know when a branch will fall driving through the woods and it helps protect the rear bed and passengers. Other thing this way I can have a mini-tent made for the rear cage for camping.

> can the boards be removed fairly easily for highier visibility

As noted, yes. One thing I am going to change is I made my tailgate low so I could see out the back when backing up. But, when left open on extreme angles it still comes close to hitting the ground. So, I am going to put barn doors on the next bed and be able to pin them back against the bed so I can have them open while backing up an extreme angle and not worry about them hitting anything.

This will also allow my home made ramps to be placed directly against the bed frame so they will not slip at all and so when I dump large logs off the bed they will not hit anything. I dumped a 1,200 pound log off the back and it took out the trailer hitch the previous owner had (lousy job) had welded to the frame. Luckily I was at home and could sawzall the rest off so I could move the truck.

 

sweet man...i can't wait to see them! thanx for the pics man...i really appreciate it

-jason-

 

Try Here . I know this is a toyota but he shows how he built his bed and it looks like it would do all you want and more.I really like the fact that this is his dd but looks like he has plenty of visibility.

 

cwb....that's awesome man! thanx I am gonna do something just like that except instead of diamond plate I wanna use thick, steel grate....it is easier if the mud just falls through hehe. looking at prices that stuff is expensive but i have a buddy that can get it for real cheap somehow! I need to come up with a good solid frame to weld it to....that's the hard part!

-jason-

 

Check out My Website for some pics of my flatbed. I didn't make it myself, but I do have some dimsnsioned plans that I drew up for it.

It's steel channels with a 3/4" treated plywood floor and it hauls anything. If you'r einterested in the plans, let me know.

Kevin K.

edit: Click Here for the pdf file of the bed plans. The rails that sit on the frame are not dimensioned since some frames are different. It is to scale though (1/8" = 1'-0")

 

Okay, here are some pictures.

Cross members and uprights are all 1/8 x 3 inch steel C-channel. Tailgate and front of bed are 12 gauge (almost 1/8) steel. All three cross members are bolted to the frame with 1/2 inch bolts. There is a piece of 3" channel running from the 1st to 2nd cross member. It is held down by four bolts (3/8) and my winch is attached to that. I went light on the bolts because it is only a 2k winch. Plus, the winch itself is held down by 1/2" bolts that run through the first cross member too.

The hinges for the tailgate and the barrel bolts that hold it closed are Home Depot baby! Though they are held on with 1/4 grade 8 bolts. When carrying a full load (1/3 cord) of wood I run a strap across the tailgate just in case I get rear ended so the moron does not die or so wood does not drop on the highway.

Ugly but functional. My spare lies in the bed or stands up, it is chained to the bed so it can be moved around, but, not stolen.

I load up a stump grinder into the bed whenever I have a stump to grind. I rent the ramps from Home Depot along with the grinder and winch it into the bed.

I have a picture of the bed holding a couple of 31 inch logs.

Those donut cutters are 31x10.50x15. I am using them until I get the new bed on because I need another 3+ inches before I can run 33s or 35s with a full load. Under full load the bed barely clears the 31s when it is twisted up.

Plus, I have no power steering and off-road 33s in 4x4 are a hand full ... make that arm full!

 

I used to drive a 70 F100 SWB. Mine had power steering too,, it was called an oversized steering wheel and all the power I could muster. It had a good turn radius though.
Do you have a Dana 60 in the rear?

 

I have power steering.....all the power in my shoulders! Goes with my 2/60 air conditioning.......two windows...60 mph?