rear shock location
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: San Diego
rear shock location
I'm in the process of setting the ride height on my '56 f-100.
I took out the 2 short leafs and it only dropped about 1".
I had some one jump on the bumper to see what was going to hit when it bottomed out. Either the tires would hit the fenders, axle would hit stopper pads, or shocks would bottom out.
Ends up the shocks bottomed out before anything else, but I did notice some wear on the tire. I'm assumeing this is when cornering and body roll is tilting the truck, there for rubbing.
This brings me to the question of where is the best location to put the shocks, and if at an angle?
My initial thought is they should be as close to the springs as possible. Reason is, the shock controles the bounce of the spring. Right? (say yes)
When I welded the shock mounts to the 9" rear, I took a look at some of the newer trucks to pick a location. I'm assumeing mine might be in to close to the center.
So when I flip the axle on top of the springs and "C" notch the frame, should I relocate the shock mounts to the outside a bit more? or should I concider a sway bar? or will new stiffer shocks help? I have to get new shorter ones anyway.
Thanks in advance to any that can help.
I took out the 2 short leafs and it only dropped about 1".
I had some one jump on the bumper to see what was going to hit when it bottomed out. Either the tires would hit the fenders, axle would hit stopper pads, or shocks would bottom out.
Ends up the shocks bottomed out before anything else, but I did notice some wear on the tire. I'm assumeing this is when cornering and body roll is tilting the truck, there for rubbing.
This brings me to the question of where is the best location to put the shocks, and if at an angle?
My initial thought is they should be as close to the springs as possible. Reason is, the shock controles the bounce of the spring. Right? (say yes)
When I welded the shock mounts to the 9" rear, I took a look at some of the newer trucks to pick a location. I'm assumeing mine might be in to close to the center.
So when I flip the axle on top of the springs and "C" notch the frame, should I relocate the shock mounts to the outside a bit more? or should I concider a sway bar? or will new stiffer shocks help? I have to get new shorter ones anyway.
Thanks in advance to any that can help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
You've got some latitude. I ended up with a shock that travels from about 9" to 15". Should have been better but I installed the tail pipes first. It's OK to angle the shocks. Ford did. You'll get a bit more potential travel out of a shock if you angle it a bit fore or aft. Not much extra though as you need to stay fairly vertical with the shock so it halfway matches the travel of the rear end.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
If you're getting enough body roll on cornering to rub the tires, an anti-sway bar might help, but I read somewhere that you should not run a rear anti-sway bar if you do not run a front anti-sway bar. Remember also that you will get a less softer ride by adding anti-sway bars. Shocks should be mounted with as little angle as possible, but if you have to angle them, then never more than 30 degrees or they lose their efficiency...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Hi
I am using reversed eye rear springs and the spring mounts are moved up 1 inch. I then moved the shocks outboard 2 inches per side and maintained approx shock angle that was on the original 56. I set the short shocks with about 2 1/2 inches of jounce (up) travel seems to work drove it for a year like that. Fuel tank was in stock location haven't put any miles on with new tank location. Shocks should still work just fine. Jounce bumpers need to be added to "C" section.
I have added a rear sway bar also. Like Vern said don't run a rear bar without a front one.
It sounds like your rear spring are in need of a major tune up (replace). These suspension's do have some roll designed into them by installing stiffer shocks and sway bars some of that is removed the price is a stiffer ride.
I have some pictures of my rear shocks in my gallery if you care to look.
Yes the shocks do help control travel.
Chuck
I am using reversed eye rear springs and the spring mounts are moved up 1 inch. I then moved the shocks outboard 2 inches per side and maintained approx shock angle that was on the original 56. I set the short shocks with about 2 1/2 inches of jounce (up) travel seems to work drove it for a year like that. Fuel tank was in stock location haven't put any miles on with new tank location. Shocks should still work just fine. Jounce bumpers need to be added to "C" section.
I have added a rear sway bar also. Like Vern said don't run a rear bar without a front one.
It sounds like your rear spring are in need of a major tune up (replace). These suspension's do have some roll designed into them by installing stiffer shocks and sway bars some of that is removed the price is a stiffer ride.
I have some pictures of my rear shocks in my gallery if you care to look.
Yes the shocks do help control travel.
Chuck
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Senior User
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From: San Diego
Thanks,
I do have an anti-sway bar on the front. The front clip is from a '72 Torino. Which I'm thinking of going to a thicker bar to help on that body roll in the front also.
I was under the impression a rear anti-sway bar works with twist not up and down.
I dunno.
I do have an anti-sway bar on the front. The front clip is from a '72 Torino. Which I'm thinking of going to a thicker bar to help on that body roll in the front also.
I was under the impression a rear anti-sway bar works with twist not up and down.
I dunno.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: San Diego
Also, what's the openion on this set up for the back;
flip the axle on top of the springs, c-notch the frame, this should give me a good 6-7" drop.
But now ride controle; sway bar for body roll, or new shocks mounted at slight angle. or both
Traction; traction bars (slapper style) or 2 link that's welded to the axle houseing and bolted to the frame.
Will traction bars and anti-sway bars work together on the same set up? It just seems like alot of stuff.
I will need some type of traction help. I have to put on a kidney belt any time I jump on it hard.
flip the axle on top of the springs, c-notch the frame, this should give me a good 6-7" drop.
But now ride controle; sway bar for body roll, or new shocks mounted at slight angle. or both
Traction; traction bars (slapper style) or 2 link that's welded to the axle houseing and bolted to the frame.
Will traction bars and anti-sway bars work together on the same set up? It just seems like alot of stuff.
I will need some type of traction help. I have to put on a kidney belt any time I jump on it hard.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Hi
Both the front and rear bars help stop the vehicle from rolling. In jounce and rebound they both follow the suspension in the vertical direction.
I would think you really need to decide which type of rear susp that you want. If you go with a 4 bar then I would think you need coil over shocks and a panard (spelling?) bar (this bar stops the rear from moving side to side) and I would think the shock location is important with this type of susp configuration.
In most cases body roll is really suspension roll.
Chuck
Both the front and rear bars help stop the vehicle from rolling. In jounce and rebound they both follow the suspension in the vertical direction.
I would think you really need to decide which type of rear susp that you want. If you go with a 4 bar then I would think you need coil over shocks and a panard (spelling?) bar (this bar stops the rear from moving side to side) and I would think the shock location is important with this type of susp configuration.
In most cases body roll is really suspension roll.
Chuck
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: San Diego
What I'm trying to do is economicaly get the ride hight and performance with what I have.
I know the 4 link is an ideal way to go but to much $$$$.
And I should be able to get what I want with what I have.
Basicaly what I want is for the back to be dropped in the weeds, and be able to launch hard with out wheel hop.
Oh, and it also has to be driveable.
That can't be to much to ask........ can it?
Thanks
I know the 4 link is an ideal way to go but to much $$$$.
And I should be able to get what I want with what I have.
Basicaly what I want is for the back to be dropped in the weeds, and be able to launch hard with out wheel hop.
Oh, and it also has to be driveable.
That can't be to much to ask........ can it?
Thanks
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Hi
Nope not at all.
Flip the axle, "C" notch the frame also plate that area and move the shocks outboard. That gets you in the weeds and is driveable.
If you want to launch hard you will need to put some sort of traction aid on the rear (leaf springs do move about) like traction bars,not sway bar.
Move the fuel tank to rear of axle then figure out how you are going to get the frt to lift fast for more weight transfer or don't move the tank don't worry about weight transfer put on some old soft tires and put on one hell of a smoke show untill one blows and rips off a rear fender
Enjoy
Chuck
P.S. don't do the last part
Nope not at all.
Flip the axle, "C" notch the frame also plate that area and move the shocks outboard. That gets you in the weeds and is driveable.
If you want to launch hard you will need to put some sort of traction aid on the rear (leaf springs do move about) like traction bars,not sway bar.
Move the fuel tank to rear of axle then figure out how you are going to get the frt to lift fast for more weight transfer or don't move the tank don't worry about weight transfer put on some old soft tires and put on one hell of a smoke show untill one blows and rips off a rear fender
Enjoy
Chuck
P.S. don't do the last part
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,243
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From: Michigan
HI
The last part wasn't an original idea I just saw it in one of my mag's a few months ago. The guy had a white F100 and he blew the right rear fender off in a burn out contest.
Not sure why you would want to enter one of those contest but to each his own.
Let us know what you decide to do.
Chuck
The last part wasn't an original idea I just saw it in one of my mag's a few months ago. The guy had a white F100 and he blew the right rear fender off in a burn out contest.
Not sure why you would want to enter one of those contest but to each his own.
Let us know what you decide to do.
Chuck
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Re: rear shock location
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Knucklebuster
[B]I'm in the process of setting the ride height on my '56 f-100.
I took out the 2 short leafs and it only dropped about 1".
If you only got an inch out of removing the two short leaves, you might want to consider putting them back in when you do the 'C' notch. This added to your spring wrap woes. I know it's expensive, but a 4 bar would really solve all your traction problems. If you keep the leaf springs, you need some traction bars to prevent spring wrap and resulting wheel hop...
[B]I'm in the process of setting the ride height on my '56 f-100.
I took out the 2 short leafs and it only dropped about 1".
If you only got an inch out of removing the two short leaves, you might want to consider putting them back in when you do the 'C' notch. This added to your spring wrap woes. I know it's expensive, but a 4 bar would really solve all your traction problems. If you keep the leaf springs, you need some traction bars to prevent spring wrap and resulting wheel hop...