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Here we go again. This time, when I turn the key on, I don't hear the fuel pump humm. After a few more tries it will suddenly charge. Fuel pump just over year old, fuel pump relay (first thought) only months old. Maybe short in ignition lock? Nope new one no solve.Also, new plugs, wires, ignition module, etc. This problem is new. Anybody got any ideas?
Ignition switch, huh? Is this an open up the steering column project? What should I be looking for? I've had many electrical gremlins in this van and you've helped me with most of them. Maybe you can get me through this one. Thanks for all of your previous and future advice.
The switch is the component the ignition lock/cylinder fits into and turns when you turn the key. It is 'behind' the lock cylinder, meaning it is found inside the steering colum. It is not that hard to change out but a repair manual would be helpful if you have not done this before. New switch runs around $15 to $25 depending your source. Depending on your model year, there may be some anti-tamper bolts to contend with in the process.
There were recalls on some switches up to at least the 91 model year. You can have the dealer run your VIN # to see if yours was affected and/or replaced in the past. If you dig into this, also look closely at the various wires coming off the switch for signs of overheating damage and/or corrosion.
Try doing a search on this forum or the Electrical Systems forum for more information.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Feb 2, 2004 at 04:34 PM.
OK, got my Haynes manual and I think I can figure it out. Looks like removing the steering wheel may be the hardest part, but I don't want to get my hopes up. This van has never been easy to work on. I'll post on how it goes. Thanks again.
My Haynes manual mentions break-off head bolts but my new part came with none. Advance Auto Parts says they don't carry them and the ignition switches don't come with them. Any info?
The break-off head bolts are used to secure the anti-theft collar to the steering column - the part that locks the steering wheel whenever the key is removed. When this collar is installed, the prevailing torque used to secure the collar to the column breaks the hex head portion off leaving behind the rounded shoulder, supposedly to deter thieves. You can remove the bolts with a small cold chisel and hammer. You don't chisel the bolt shoulder off, but merely used the chisel edge to bite into the shoulder and cause the bolt to turn. They are not that hard to remove and usually you can leave the steering wheel in place while you do this. I don't know if the dealer sells just the bolts alone or if they only come with the entire switch/locking collar assembly. If you can't get the special bolts, just use an ordinary bolt in its place. If there are clearance problems with the ordinary bolt head, there are bolts that have a small head with an allen wrench socket to tighten them down that can be used as well.
Here's the latest. Pulled the steering wheel, opened up the column, found the switch held on with T-25 tamper resistant star screws, no problem. Checked the wires and found the black one burned. Checking with the local dealership, I found out my van wasn't covered in recall . So, for just under $20, I got 3 wires and a plastic connector. Replaced wires and connector, put it all back together, still no fix. Still open to suggestions,
Chuck
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