clutch problems
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Anchorage Alaska
clutch problems
went to walmart the other day when i got back in the truck to leave i had to grind gears to get it to go into gear, checked the linkage it is adjusted to the longest length, does this mean i need to replace the chutch? when i shut the truck off i can switch gears, but when the engine is running i have to force it in along with quit a bit of grinding, i though when your clutch goes out it slips in gear? it gets all sorts of grip when is in gear it just doesnt like to go into gear, and it creeps when in gear idling with the clutch pushed in. a chevy biscane i had long ago i knew the clutch was going out cause under heavy load it would slip and i had it adjusted to the max. i find it odd for the firction disk to be bad if it is grabbing good. its a 77.5+ f250 351m or 400 not sure. 4x4
any help would be appreciated im new to ford full size, i got a small ranger
thanks
Ray
any help would be appreciated im new to ford full size, i got a small ranger
thanks
Ray
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 32
From: southwest pa
i've had the same problem, my truck grabs plenty hard when the pedal is out, but sometimes when going either into reverse or first, i have to pump the clutch twice to get into these gears. it doesnt seem to be a problem though after i rn the truck around for little while and let the transmission heat up. could this be an adjustment problem? or is it just because the temperature is hovering around the zero mark. it sounds like grey and i might be having similar problems. as far as my advice grey, try like i did, give the clutch another pump when it starts grinding, this might help you out some temporarily, it gets me into reverse and low no problem,
john
john
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
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From: SD
Re: clutch problems
Originally posted by greythorn3
i had to grind gears to get it to go into gear, checked the linkage it is adjusted to the longest length, does this mean i need to replace the chutch?
i had to grind gears to get it to go into gear, checked the linkage it is adjusted to the longest length, does this mean i need to replace the chutch?
The only other possibility is worn linkage. Inspect the linkages closely. Look for worn bushings, especially the ends of the rod that goes through the floor. Worn parts will give you excess slack, which won't let the clutch fully disengage.
When my clutch was getting worn, I made a longer threaded adjustment rod to allow me to tighten the linkage farther. It's not the right fix, but it got me by.
Whatever you do, don't continue to drive it this way. Grinding gears - even a little - will ruin a tranny very fast.
Marty
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 967
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From: Southern NJ
Definitely new clutch for Grey. Highboy,,, does this only happen when the truck is cold? A few pumps in cold weather is normal. Try to let the truck warm up as much as possible before going anywhere. Especially when it's at or below the freezing mark.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,110
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From: southwest pa
i just recently switched the cab on my truck, and when i took the cab off, i lost the pivot arm extendor going to the clutch fork. since i couldnt find a replacement, i had a 4 or so inch long piece of aluminum fabbed up to take its place, i've played around with the adjustment a little bit and it doesnt seem to show any improvement. i'm going to adjust it out some more today to see if it helps any, but it only does it in low and reverse, not first, second or third. it only seems to do it when its cold, the truck isn't on the road right now so i can't really get it up to temp completely just driving around the yard. when i bought the truck this summer, it didn't do it at all, just seemed to happen when i switched the cab. my assumption is that i don't have it adjusted properly. i could be wrong since the tranny makes a little bit of noise when its sitting running in neutral. as i said, im going to adjust it out more today and see if that helps. this truck has alot of bugs to be worked out, but im not gonna get it on the road until novermber, so time isn't an issue
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Highboy,
You are running a high weight oil in your tranny.
I would recommend your drain the box, and switch to ATF.
Has anybody else tried this on a 4X4?
Chrysler recommended it on all there Cudas and Road Runners. They had some serious HP behind them. i imagine it would work just fine?
Consider it,
KingFisher
Secondly, When a clutch wears,.... doesn't it slip?
A rough shift is not indicative of a bad clutch. What if the throwout bearing is sooo worn that you can't get the linkage to expand far enough.
1. Pumping the pedal won't help...... it's mechanical linkage!
2. Can a bad presssure plate cause this? I don't think so.
Keep working on the linkage.
You are running a high weight oil in your tranny.
I would recommend your drain the box, and switch to ATF.
Has anybody else tried this on a 4X4?
Chrysler recommended it on all there Cudas and Road Runners. They had some serious HP behind them. i imagine it would work just fine?
Consider it,
KingFisher
Secondly, When a clutch wears,.... doesn't it slip?
A rough shift is not indicative of a bad clutch. What if the throwout bearing is sooo worn that you can't get the linkage to expand far enough.
1. Pumping the pedal won't help...... it's mechanical linkage!
2. Can a bad presssure plate cause this? I don't think so.
Keep working on the linkage.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
A bad pressure plate can cause this problem. When the spring steel arms weaken it can take more travel to disengage the clutch. Some adjusting can sometimes buy you some time but my bet is you'll be changing the pressure plate soon. Also pumping the clutch, or double clutching as you truck drivers out there would call it, has nothing to do with a hydraulic clutch unless the hydraulics are bad, double clutching make the gears line up easier when you shift, it won't help much taking off but will help alot while driving down the highway. In a transmission with worn syncros its the only way to drive. I sure wouldn't pull it down to put a pressure plate in it without changing the clutch and throwout bearing... even if they don't look bad.
I'm assuming you have check the oil level in the transmission.
I'm assuming you have check the oil level in the transmission.
Last edited by Wyoming10; Feb 2, 2004 at 02:50 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 57
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From: tacoma
i had the same problem. i cracked the pressure plate, and adjusting it only made it worse. i thought at first it was just a bad clutch until i ripped it apart. it was a long weekend,try getting a flywheel surfaced on a sunday. good luck
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Anchorage Alaska
long or short
so when the adjuster is adjusted out long it means your clutch is wore out? and when its adjusted shorter it means that you still have clutch to go?
Ray
Still wondering if my clutch it wore out since it gets positive engaugement when i stop it down, it doesnt seem to slip at all just seems to not want to go into gear without grinding. looking at my equalizer bar adjusting the clutch again, and the mount the bar goes through is all wobbly. anyone know of a fix for this?
Ray
Still wondering if my clutch it wore out since it gets positive engaugement when i stop it down, it doesnt seem to slip at all just seems to not want to go into gear without grinding. looking at my equalizer bar adjusting the clutch again, and the mount the bar goes through is all wobbly. anyone know of a fix for this?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Anchorage Alaska
took it apart tonight and got photos!
check out my gallery for the photos of the parts i took out, looks like it might be a bad pressure plate 4 of the arms are down 1/8-1/4 " with it outa the truck, seems like there is allot of friction material left though 1/8" or a little less per side. nothing down to rivets look at the pics and let me know if you can see somthing i overlooked, none of this is going back into the truck i got a new flywheel (used but resurfaced) and new pressure plate, friction disk and throughout bearing along with a new pilot bushing, bushings for all the linkage and a new equalizer bar with a new adjuster, my mounting point for the adjuster was flopping around a bit.
Ray
AK
Ray
AK
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Anchorage Alaska
bushing or bearing
going to put it all back togeather and pulled the pilot, its a needle bearing type, what is better to put in a bushing type or replace it back with a needle bearing kind?
Ray
Ray
