The K&N FIPIK is the best, but they don't make one for our beloved B2. The tube and cone design helps air flow but will draw in hot air with out an air shroud and fresh air intake tube. The FIPIK uses an aluminum tube, K&N cone filter, and a shroud connected to a fresh air source. If you use the replacement K&N filter, it will help air flow and horsepower, but will be restricted by the factory air hose and fresh air tube. I therorize that if you replace the factory rubber hose with a rigid tube such as aluminum or PVC, and increase the diameter of the fresh air intake leading to the grill, you will get the same effect as the FIPIK. Also behind the grill where the air box draws its air, there is a plastic flap that protects the intake tube from debris while driving, it is shaped like s scoop pointed at the ground. If you remove this and replace it with screen, you will get more air pushed in as you drive at speed creating a Ram-air effect. If you decide to replace your air intake tubes, remember that you wan't a smooth inner surface with smooth transitional bends. If I was more computer literate I would post some diagrams for you, with detailed sketches. Anyhow, good luck with it and I hope this inspires at least an idea for you.

 

the cone filter style will definitely be more noticeable than just replacing the stock filter with the replacement K&N filter. I noticed a noticeable difference by adding the cone filter, I still have the stock rubber hose from the TB but I am working on getting some 3.5 or 4 inch mandrel bent piping for it. on my previous car ('89 Accord LXi) i did the same setup w/ 3" (here's a link to some pics of my car and my BII http://www.geocities.com/infinityaudiolxi also about the cold air question: for FI cars/trucks the colder the air the more HP, so the colder the air the better, on carb engines you don't want really cold air so they just recommend flipping the lid on ur filter.

and finally about the MSD ignition! I did notice a good difference with my 2.9 EFI engine. I might have noticed more than most because I do have the cold air intake and flowmaster exhaust. More Air (cone filter) + Hotter and More Sparks (MSD ignition) + bigger free flowing exhaust (2 1/4" piping w/ flowmaster) = good gain in torque and hp from stock. oh, yeah, i haven't added the TFI coil yet but i am going to get it soon, hopefully next month. Also these are all very easy upgrades that I have done and are worth it!

 

elwhoppo, I am not sure about the specifics you are talking about. But if you just simplify it a bit and stop over-analyzing and thinking why it won't work. Just go ahead and do it! I am sure you will be pleased with the performance. I have this Throttle body on my 88 2.9 and I noticed a quicker throttle response and more torque in the 3000-3500 RPM range.
I am sure you can tweak it by massaging the areas needed. I would go ahead and do it first before thinking too much about it.
dlink, I have both the MSD ignition box and coil in my BII as well as the cold air intake(95 dodge neon with cone filter)but I don't have the flowmaster exhaust or freeflow cats(mods that are still coming soon) I didn't notice any power or torque increase but I did notice a better throttle response and a smoother idle.

 

Wolfpaxx , thanks for the info.
Think I'll do the larger exhaust upgrade first.

 

Hey Woiffpax,

Thanks for the input. I've had a 58mm TB that I have been working on for a couple month now. Its damn near a chrome finish now, with all the dremel and buffing work.

I dropped a new HP 2.9L in my '88 Bronco II. It has just about the best I could afford, in the way of internal engine parts, heads, etc.

I did everything new from clutch to radiator, except the plenum, and install the larger TB. I have an easy $4,000 invested.Thats all parts, because my buddy, (a super mechanic), and I did all the labor. Except for the engine build, which I had done by S&S, out of Spokan, Wa.

The plenum remains stock, and I was just worried that the airflow would be adversly effected, if the rear bore of the 58mm TB doesn't match the opening of the plenum.

I have about 3,500 miles on the new engine now, and it runs like a raped ape.

I plan on installing the 58mm TB real soon, I just need to rework the forward edge of the throat, and polish that area when done. I'm hoping that I get at least the same driveability results that you have.

Whats so funny, is that when I put the new engine in, and bolted on the plenum/TB, I never had the foresight to measure the plenum opening, even though I knew I was probably going to install a 58mm TB a little later on. Can't think of everything I guess.

Anyway, thanks again for the input.....Oh, let me say that you really need to do the Cat and FlowMaster thing....I exited the exhausts, just in front of the rear wheels, with $35 a piece, mirror polished stainless steel tips. It sounds great at idle, and awesome at WOT!

But it does rumble inside, which is probably due to exiting forward of the rear wheels. What the hell......
I like rumble!!

 

So what cat company did you use?I am going to go full exhaust this summer. Planning on headers freeflow cat and a flowmaster 40 series muffler. No sure if I want single out rear or duals.

 

Hey Woiffpax,

Wow, tax my memory...I was dealing with both Jeg's and Summitt Racing, along with a mess of other parts suppliers at the same time.

But, I'm am pretty sure that the HighFlow Cat came fom Summitt Racing. They use a company named "CatCo".

It was a direct replacement, and bolted right on. Note that I did not go to headers, so I didn't have to any guess work, with a proper match up at the Header Collector.

Something that you may need to consider, and provide advance information on, in order to match your intended headers to a Cat.

I guess what I would do in your case, is to deal directly with header people like "Pace", or "JBA". They can also tell you which Cat will bolt up to their header collector.

You may need to consider the H2O sensor application, as well.

The FlowMaster 40 series is the right choice, but get the "Original", and not the DeltaFlow".

I went with the FlowMaster 40 "Original", one in-two out, exited in front of the rear tires, so I have quite the rumble for a 6 Banger.

Its fairly quite at idle, but get your foot in the TB, and all heck breaks loss. I love it!!

You may not realise the same "in vehicle" sound, running two pipes all the way back, in fact it may be alot more tamer, since two pipes will carry a lot of exhaust volumn straight through.

This is really true with the stock smaller block V-8's, that guys put two FlowMasters on. Theres so much flow, that the sound that FlowMaster is famous for, is greatly deminished.

Thats why a single FlowMaster is the only way to go on a 2.9L 6 banger. A one-in-one-out 40 series "Original" is really a good choice too!!

**Anyway, you really need to think about "exhaust emissions" too, especially if you have Safety" and "Smog" Control in your State.

Nothing worse than dumping "BIG BUCK's" into a great sounding exhaust system, only to fail the next "Smog Control" & "Safety Check".

If you do have these Environmental Police worries, make that an up front issue when dealing with the Header/Cat purchase.

Here in Florida, we don't have either worry, so its "Go For Broke", so to speak. But, no matter what I do, my 6 Banger will never sound as good as a "Deep Throat" V-8.

But, I do get asked the question, from time to time.

A complying HighFlow Cat will probably run you about $175. Complying Headers may run $275, and up to as much as $600, depending on your needs.

Do I hear EBay calling??

Headers are priced all over the place, based on how good you want to go, and how regulated you actually are. They come Painted, Coated, Ceramic, Raw, and so on.....

 

Hey thanks for the info. Yes I saw the catco cats in the catalog. Are they a single cat or a dual cat? Just wanted to make sure of the length.(if I just go cat and exhaust for now)

 

I used a stock K&N replacement on my 89 and could notice a difference. The stock setup is a good design. A cone in the engine compartment just draws in hot air. Without a airbox, the benefit of the cone is not shown. The larger TB is a direct bolt on. Just make sure you put the posision sensor in the right spot. It will rev very high if not.

 

Hey Woiffpax,

Mines a dual direct fit, they have the single Cat too.

Direct fit means exactly that, it bolts right in. No need to worry about measurements, etc.

You will have to have the shop cut off the forward flange on the exiting muffler, you will need that to be mig welded onto the inlet pipe of the FlowMaster. So your end product is a cool flanged bolt on FlowMaster.

Normally, while still on the vehicle, the shop will just cut it off, where needed, align and mig the FlowMaster to it. Clamps take care of the outlet end of the FlowMaster.

Give Summitt Racing a call at their 1-800<FREE
1-800-230-3030 or 1-800-630-3030

Tell them what you got, what you want, and let them sort though the red tape for you, and come up with the right part numbers. Again, pay attention to your H2O Sensor mounting.

Good Luck Dude!!

 

Thank you very much elwhoppo. I owe you a beer.