The FE446, as many of you know, has been recently successful in making some good HP and Torque numbers.

But, it is intermittent. I've got several dyno runs in the 265 RWHP range and then the one good run at 360HP/416lb-ft. We are confident the data was real on the good run. I can even feel the difference when driving sometimes. I think it runs most of the time in the less powerful condition. But, every so often the stars line up and things connect and it puts the power to the ground. (Actually, it just spins the tires, traction problems. but that's another topic).

The best Dyno run came after the upgrade to the electric fuel pump.

I'm thinking that my problem is still in the fuel feed system. Apparently, standard practice is to run a larger feed to the pump than out of the pump. I certainly don't have that now (quite the opposite actually , using the stock metal line from the tank). I'm planning to upgrade to #10 line from the tank through a high flow #10 fitted filter into the pump. Then #8 from the pump to the regulator, then (2) #6 lines from the regulator to the Demon carb. This is pretty typical of a suggested high flow fuel system seen in some documentation. It's not cheap, so I'd like to rule out any other possible intermittent problems if possible.

I'm running all MSD ignition, including the billet distributor. I don't think the ignition is suspect, but I've been wrong before. I also feel good about the carb setup based on it's good run.

Can you guys think of anything else to check before I spend the money on fuel line? this will probably cost about $200 with the large high flow filter and all the fittings and the "Approved" fuel line. this material is approved for racing at the track.

Yikes, didn't mean to write a novel.

Any help appreciated.

BTW, the bed is back on the truck and that has helped with traction :-) I'm going to install the monster gas tank when I upgrade the fuel plumbing.

The truck looks good. My estimation of exhaust location while the bed was off turned out good with the bed on. I'll try to get a pic up soon.

 

Usually if you are running out of fuel supply you will either cut out totally or start popping through the carb. It could be an intermittent vacuum leak somewhere. Sometims as temps change things with either seal up or start leaking. That's kinda strange. Sometimes I make a run at the dragstrip and do fine and then make the next and it either feels much better or worse but the clock disagrees with me, but in your case you have to listen to the dyno! 90 gallons of fuel outta give you a little extra bite back there for sure!

 

I know I sound like a broken record, and I know it doesn't neccesarly make sense, but:

(assuming you have no other restrictions causing these problems)

1/2 line
a "real" regulator (non-dead head).

I wen't through many months of some of the same problems you have on my 428cj. The last configuration was what you are running now, down to the pump, line size, and type of reg.

Finally, I went with a high quality aeromotive fuel regulator with a return line, 1/2 line, and just stuck with the Holley pump I had been using. Voila, all problems solved and have been ever since.

Personally, I think the 1/2 line was overkill and the true solution was the proper regulator. JMO.

 

Gtex,

No doubt your fuel system needs to be able to keep up, but like Sean said, the symptoms don't seem right. Low fuel doesn't usually just reduce your engines output, it creates undeniable symptoms. Heres a possibility. Is the distributor sticking? Is it possible that under some conditions it's able to advance all the way, giving you your power, and other times getting held back?

That would explain reduced power without other symptoms.

Just a thought.

-Scouder

 

Make sure the mechanical advance in the distributor isn't sticking? Or the vacuum one, for that matter (if you're using it).

Whoops... just relized Scouder just said the same thing...

 

It is the MSD billet Dizzy. Strictly mechanical, so at least I can narrow it down a bit. I'll look in there and clean things up if possible. Is WD40 appropriate?

I also need to get a new cap and rotor. My connections are green with corrosion.

On another topic. My engine ran like crap after a trip to the car-wash the other day. I'm not sure if I got water in the ignition or in the carb. Actually, I'm sure there was water in both, but I don't know which made it run bad. It took a while before I could start it, and a long time running to get it back to normal. I also experienced a couple of bad dieseling shutoffs :-( It wouldn't idle, and I couldn't get out of the truck and under the hood fast enough to keep it from dying.

 

After all the money you spent, you don't have a new cap and rotor?

That corrosion won't help wet running, that's for sure.

Spraying water around the carb shouldn't hurt anything, it'll just go right down the intake and be burned off - keep it down though, you'll hydrolock! That corrosion sounds like your problem with the wet, and it might not be good for the overall performance, either!

 

The dieseling shutoff coud be a stuck choke. This will casue the engine to not idle and diesel when shutoff. You can't soak an air filter bad enough to hurt an engine.

 

If it was me I wouldn't hesitate to pull the dist and make sure everything was clean and functional. WD40 shouldn't hurt anything. If you've got corrosion fix it.

Which springs/stop are you using?

-Scouder

 

Seems I recall back in the day (that hurt, I need to rest....) that WD40 sprayed in a dist cap would solve water log problems caused by the car wash.

 

Thanks guys,

I'll clean the contacts, lube the mechanism and report back with the stop bushing and spring combination. I know I went with a rapid ramp and a medium stop bushing trying to run an initial in the high teens but a max in the mid 30s BTDC.


I think the advance springs are pretty small. I think that would be less likely to stick??

 

WD40 will displace water, and works wonders when you've hydrated (get it) you ignition parts.

Your dist shouldn't hang up even with the stiff springs, but yes, the lighter springs will make it less likely. Keep us posted.

-Scouder

 

Your fuel system is only as good as the weakest link or smallest line/most restrictive fitting. I would say your stock line from the tank is restricting fuel enough on a longer pull it slowly leans out. I had the same prob with my earlier 390. It did not backfire or stall out, it simply laid down and I had to back off untill the fuel caught up. Also make sure your electric pump is lower than the fuel tank. Electric pumps don't suck worth a darn, but they pump like gang busters.

Putt

 

Yea, I just don't like dead-head regs which is why I beat that dead horse. Glad you nailed the problem down to the msd dizzy.

Why O why am I not surprised? I'm ashamed to to admit that once upon a time I bought that very same unit...

You guys realize that wd40 is not technically a lubricant and the wd stands for Water Displacement, right? That really is its primary function and it works great sprayed in your dizzy.

 

Well,

The problem is not nailed down to the dizzy yet.. It's just another suspect.

I still believe it's in the fuel feed. I think I have such a bad feed to the pump that it's creating inconsistency after the pump. As stated, these are meant to push not pull. It is nouted below the tank. But as most of you know, the stock fuel line goes up and over to get into the in-cab tank. It's just a bad feed setup..

I'd be installing the monster tank if it weren't raining here again. I guess we need it, but dam I'm tired of this cold and wet weather.

For the amusement of you Yankees and general northern inhabitants..I define cold and wet as 50 Deg F and raining :-)