Fan clutch
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Fan clutch
From what my searching here tells me, if I can move it( while truck is off) it is bad. But my Haynes manual says I should be able to move it with some resistance. There is, but I don't think it's that much. What to do. Normally my truck runs just left of the N, and around the O when plowing. When I was plowing the other day it was up to the M, and the heater and fan on full blast didn't help. I took the plow off, and now it's running at the O heat on or off. I'm gonna replace the thermostat, but should I also replace the fan clutch? Anything else that may be the culprit? Thanks for the help.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,659
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From: S/C Texas
If you spin the fan while the engine is off, it should spin a turn or maybe two. I figure if its cold enough to plow snow, its cold enough to cool even with a clutch alittle off.
Check the fluid level?
Check the fluid level?
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Naw, I can spi it forever. The fluid's good. I noticed that the heat isn't as hot as usual on vent, and the floor is cool. Now I;m thinking heater core. I've never been one to pinpoint;just buy parts starting with the cheapest. But I don't have the money for that, and I'd like to do it the right way.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
Start with the simple tests first. You should be able to squeeze the upper radiator hose and feel the water going thru it if the water pump is working properly. Also,look in the radiator to see if the water is flowing too. Before buying a new thermostat test yours first. Put it in a pot of water on the stove and place a thermometor in the water and see if it opens at the specified temperature. And,if it opens all the way or partially. How old is your radiator cap? That could be bad. Do you neglect your cooling system,as in not flushing it often? Do you have the proper mixture of coolant/water? Could be a partially clogged radiator. It can also be a bad sending unit or the dash gauge. And,it very well may be the fan clutch. There should be a bit of resistance if you spin it while cold. Good luck and keep us posted! 
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Rad cap was on the truck when i bought it last April, flushed this past July, Started with a 75/25 mix, but as it burns out I have been adding straight antifreeze, probally close to 100% antifreeze by now. The heat hastn't been as hot since this happened, so I'm gonna flush the system and replace the cap. just spun it after sitting lverhight, had enough resistance that it I spun and let go the fan moved about an inch. Just noticed there is some antifreeze residue under where the top rad hose meets the engine. I turned on the engine and saw antifreeze coming into the rad via that top 1/2" line. Squeezed the top line, saw fluid rise up, put cap on, squeezed, felt some fluid but not much. Tomorrow I'll test the therm, check for leaks, and flush the system if it's not a million below freezing. 
Will keep ya'll posted. Thanks.
Will keep ya'll posted. Thanks.
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One other question: since I am plowing, and the fan clutch looks like the original, might it be worth replacing now? Thanks again.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Cajun Country
It would not hurt anything to do so. Just make sure you get the correct one.There is thermal and non-thermal and HD and standard.
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just add water
As I dorve it around a couple of days, the temp was nearer tho what it was usually at. When the resiviour was empty, and then antifreeze was about an inch low, I filled the reiviour with water, and now it is back to it's normal operating temp. The leak is coming form where the upper radiator hose goes into the block. More specifically, the gasket inbetween the L-shaped piece and the block. What is that piece called, so I can get a new gasket? Thanks.