rear axle
rear axle
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Ventura County, CA
bscaff,
As far as replacement, the rear end melon should have a metal tab on it that specifies what weight gear oil to use and the owner's manual should also specify same and whether or not you need to use synthetic. Some synthetics require that you get the "friction additive" in addition to the gear oil to bring it up to spec for the limited slip (LS) rear end.
For example, I just replaced mine with the prescribed 75w-140. I used Royal Purple brand that I got from Jeg's for $8/qt. If your owner's manual lists the capacity in liters, just find a quart bottle and most also list the equivalent amount in liters. Then compute how many quart bottles you'll need to purchase to meet capacity requirements.
Royal Purple and Amsoil are the only two that I found that do NOT require the friction additive (which is not that expensive in and of itself, BTW). If you're going to replace the rear gear oil yourself, the gear oil flows A LOT BETTER if it's warm. I had mine done by a tranny shop. I stood there and watched and the guy had a heckuva time squeezing the gear oil from the bottle, thru a makeshift tube (a rubber hose you might use under the hood) and into the side-loader port on the side of the rear end melon. Also, when you have the cover off, inspect for shavings, chips, etc.
Technically, the fully synthetic rear gear oil never needs replacing unless the rear end gets submerged somehow. But, most do it at 100K intervals just to be on the safe side and to take care of the rear gears.
As far as replacement, the rear end melon should have a metal tab on it that specifies what weight gear oil to use and the owner's manual should also specify same and whether or not you need to use synthetic. Some synthetics require that you get the "friction additive" in addition to the gear oil to bring it up to spec for the limited slip (LS) rear end.
For example, I just replaced mine with the prescribed 75w-140. I used Royal Purple brand that I got from Jeg's for $8/qt. If your owner's manual lists the capacity in liters, just find a quart bottle and most also list the equivalent amount in liters. Then compute how many quart bottles you'll need to purchase to meet capacity requirements.
Royal Purple and Amsoil are the only two that I found that do NOT require the friction additive (which is not that expensive in and of itself, BTW). If you're going to replace the rear gear oil yourself, the gear oil flows A LOT BETTER if it's warm. I had mine done by a tranny shop. I stood there and watched and the guy had a heckuva time squeezing the gear oil from the bottle, thru a makeshift tube (a rubber hose you might use under the hood) and into the side-loader port on the side of the rear end melon. Also, when you have the cover off, inspect for shavings, chips, etc.
Technically, the fully synthetic rear gear oil never needs replacing unless the rear end gets submerged somehow. But, most do it at 100K intervals just to be on the safe side and to take care of the rear gears.
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