Paint restoration questions....
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 312
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From: Huntsville, AL
Paint restoration questions....
I did a search on this and got some ideas but I still have a few questions.
My truck has the 31 yr old original paint for the most part except for where some minor bobywork was done to repair some rusr over the years. The PO waxed it regularly so the paint looks pretty good. However there are some imperfections such as overspray and little whit dots of paint from unknown sources.
I want to get rid of (wax out/rub out) the imperfections. I tried some light compound and it really brightens it up but the white paint specs and overspray are still there.
Should I use a more agressive compound? How does the clay bar work? Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
My truck has the 31 yr old original paint for the most part except for where some minor bobywork was done to repair some rusr over the years. The PO waxed it regularly so the paint looks pretty good. However there are some imperfections such as overspray and little whit dots of paint from unknown sources.
I want to get rid of (wax out/rub out) the imperfections. I tried some light compound and it really brightens it up but the white paint specs and overspray are still there.
Should I use a more agressive compound? How does the clay bar work? Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Portland Oregon
There are a couple good Haynes type auto paint manuals
out there which you can find at NAPA or equivelant and
they usually have one chapter on detailing and polishing.
Stop by a detail shop or go to a large car dealer and ask to talk
to their detail man. These guys have products not available to the general public...and more important they know how to use them. They know what type of pads to use..how to keep them clean..what speed to turn at [important] and a lot of
expertise developed from experience.
With an older paint job you usually have to accept the fact
that your buffer is not a magic wand and live with some of the imperfections. Good Luck!
out there which you can find at NAPA or equivelant and
they usually have one chapter on detailing and polishing.
Stop by a detail shop or go to a large car dealer and ask to talk
to their detail man. These guys have products not available to the general public...and more important they know how to use them. They know what type of pads to use..how to keep them clean..what speed to turn at [important] and a lot of
expertise developed from experience.
With an older paint job you usually have to accept the fact
that your buffer is not a magic wand and live with some of the imperfections. Good Luck!
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Are you sure those little white dots aren't going the other way??? We had them in our F-250 when we bought it but weren't too concerned. Then my friend at works new car started showing those little dots too. At first I thought it was concrete splatters from all the road construction going on down here. Running my fingernail on the dot didn't tell me much at first. Such small dots and with the run of the fingernail, seemed like the nail was jumping over them. Didn't want to press the issue too hard in fear of scratching the red paint. A little more exploring and although the feel made it seem like an outward bump, it turned out to be an inward bump. Tiny chips in the paint from cars/trucks throwing up all that garbage on the roads in the construction areas. Nothing we can do other than keep wax on to prevent rusting until the construction is over in another 10 years or so.
Check a little closer. Those little chips can be deceiving.
Check a little closer. Those little chips can be deceiving.
Last edited by Carlene; Jan 30, 2004 at 10:15 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Portland Oregon
The I-CAR training books suggest that paint problems
are usuaaly in the following catagories:
acid or alkali spotting
bleeding
blistering
blushing
chalking
checking,grazing, cracking
dirt in finish
dulled finish
fisheyes
lifting
mottling
orange peel
peeling
pin holes over plastic filler
pitting or cratering
plastic bleed through
rust under finish
runs/sag
undercoat show through
water spotting
wet spots
wrinkling
metal dust damage
acid rain damage
sand scratches
paint surface chips
A good paint man or detail person can usually come close to
the correct diagnosis of what the problem is and what
caused it. Hope this helps!
are usuaaly in the following catagories:
acid or alkali spotting
bleeding
blistering
blushing
chalking
checking,grazing, cracking
dirt in finish
dulled finish
fisheyes
lifting
mottling
orange peel
peeling
pin holes over plastic filler
pitting or cratering
plastic bleed through
rust under finish
runs/sag
undercoat show through
water spotting
wet spots
wrinkling
metal dust damage
acid rain damage
sand scratches
paint surface chips
A good paint man or detail person can usually come close to
the correct diagnosis of what the problem is and what
caused it. Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 312
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From: Huntsville, AL
I found the solution. I went to Carquest yesterday and found what I was looking for. It's called an overspray clay bar. It's made my Meguiars and caost about $20.00. It comes in a plastic can consisting of 2 white clay bars wrapped in plastic. This clay bar is used wet with a spray solution or some good quality polish. Lightly rub clay bar on the paint and clean it off. WOW!! This removed all and any surface conaminants with ease. Much better than compound and doesn't remove the paint, just the contaminants.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 859
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From: philly pa
Originally posted by BigShelby
I found the solution. I went to Carquest yesterday and found what I was looking for. It's called an overspray clay bar. It's made my Meguiars and caost about $20.00. It comes in a plastic can consisting of 2 white clay bars wrapped in plastic. This clay bar is used wet with a spray solution or some good quality polish. Lightly rub clay bar on the paint and clean it off. WOW!! This removed all and any surface conaminants with ease. Much better than compound and doesn't remove the paint, just the contaminants.
I found the solution. I went to Carquest yesterday and found what I was looking for. It's called an overspray clay bar. It's made my Meguiars and caost about $20.00. It comes in a plastic can consisting of 2 white clay bars wrapped in plastic. This clay bar is used wet with a spray solution or some good quality polish. Lightly rub clay bar on the paint and clean it off. WOW!! This removed all and any surface conaminants with ease. Much better than compound and doesn't remove the paint, just the contaminants.
i work at a detail shop after school. we use a similar clay product made by 3M. its amazing. all you need to do is spray something slippery so it doesn't scratch. you can even mix up a bucket of car wash and slop that on there w/a sponge. i just pull off small amounts of the clay and work w/that this way if it gets all gunked up or worn out you can just toss it and grap another piece. the clay also works great down low on the truck where all the tar and crap is.
