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So when i hit the gas the lights all get stronger and then go back to dim when its not revving higher than idle. So far i've replaced: alternator, voltage regulator, solenoid, battery cables, points cap rotor condeser...any thoughts?
This is pretty normal in many vehicles. You can go with a smaller alternator pulley or larger crank pulley to speed up the alternator. You can also reduce the load on the electrical sytem.
I thought i might of got a bad regulator...the only load i have on the system are the lights, i had a very limited budget so i got the cheap one from autozone instead of the stock looking one from napa.
I'd be willing to bet when you replaced the alternator, you probably got a stock replacement. I'd be surprised if the stockers put out much more than 10amps at idle, and max at at about 35 at 2500rpm. A higher output alternator should fix the problem.
Don't forget about a clean ground for your negative, and a ground strap from the block to firewall will help.
its 61 amp according to the autozone website...can i just run a battery cable from the block to the firewall? and all of my connections are like brand new (mostly because they are).
This must be very common to these trucks, as I have owned many of them and most all have had this problem. I currently have a 71 f100 that has it. Until, I recently installed white face gauge decals,I had alot of difficulty trying to read the gauges at idle or low rpm.
Don't forget to ground from the body to the frame or engine itself. DO NOT count on your engine mounts to make the grounding connection. I am sure that is why I had so many problems and led to the new harness at almost $300. Spend the $15 extra for some piece of mind. Just my two cents and trying to help you avoid my problems.
Okay, 61amps but at what RPM does this alternator put out 61amps?
There is also the possibility that your battery just can't handle it. I'm not sure if it's new or not, but if not that would be suspect also. Your indication that the lights are dim at idle suggest that 1) Idle speed too low, or 2) alternator just not putting out decent amperage at low RPM.
If you guys still have the old "points style" voltage regulator, you're just throwing money away by replacing everything else. I replaced mine with a solid state unit and it doesn't do it anymore. I've had 2 '60 models, a '72, and my current '71- they all acted the same way.
points style voltage regulator? solid state regulator? You've got my interest, could you please explain the difference and which solid state reg to get?