Front Wheel Bearings ck
#1
Front Wheel Bearings ck
To update on a prior post of mine (Ca-Clunk in front end), I found the noise. It's the front wheel bearings. Jacked up the truck again and took tire and jerked it back and forth on top and bottom, there was the noise. It was'nt real bad but you can hear it. My ? is on these new type of bearings w/ the plastic outer casing what would be the propper tighting method that would be efective and IS IT OK TO HAVE A LITTLE PLAY or NO PLAY AT ALL?? Thanx Rich
#5
#6
I tighten mine just like any other bearing...the Haynes Manual gives the specific torque. Its like 30 foot pounds...then back off a quarter turn.
I personally just feel it out. I tighten it down....till its seated...spin it and tighten it...then back it off about a quarter turn...then hand snug it. If there is play I repeat, possibly even repack until there is zero play...I like it as loose as possible without having any play.
If your really concerned you can replace them with a bearing that has a metal race...and all metal parts. I am considering that myself.
dont forget the inner bearing as well when you do the brakes and get the rotors turned...good luck
I personally just feel it out. I tighten it down....till its seated...spin it and tighten it...then back it off about a quarter turn...then hand snug it. If there is play I repeat, possibly even repack until there is zero play...I like it as loose as possible without having any play.
If your really concerned you can replace them with a bearing that has a metal race...and all metal parts. I am considering that myself.
dont forget the inner bearing as well when you do the brakes and get the rotors turned...good luck
#7
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#11
I'll chime in here, having just done mine.
The Ford Workshop Manual shows a three step process for front wheel bearings on a 4 x 2. I think it's better for us amateurs who may not have the "feel".
While rotating the disc, tighten the nut to 30 lb-ft. Loosen the nut two turns. While rotating the disc, tighten to 17-24 lb-ft. Loosen the nut. While rotating the disc, tighten to 17 lb-in. Note that's lb-IN (very light). Ideally you should get a torque wrench calibrated in lb-in, since a converted reading on a larger wrench would not be very accurate. (It would be too low on the gauge). You are also supposed to use grease containing moly (Ford spec. ESA-M1C75-B).
I think if they've been loose, you should consider replacing them. New grease seals and cotter pins are good practice. I don't think the plastic races are a problem since in use they have no real load on them. I believe they hold the bearings in position and hold the grease in place.
The Ford Workshop Manual shows a three step process for front wheel bearings on a 4 x 2. I think it's better for us amateurs who may not have the "feel".
While rotating the disc, tighten the nut to 30 lb-ft. Loosen the nut two turns. While rotating the disc, tighten to 17-24 lb-ft. Loosen the nut. While rotating the disc, tighten to 17 lb-in. Note that's lb-IN (very light). Ideally you should get a torque wrench calibrated in lb-in, since a converted reading on a larger wrench would not be very accurate. (It would be too low on the gauge). You are also supposed to use grease containing moly (Ford spec. ESA-M1C75-B).
I think if they've been loose, you should consider replacing them. New grease seals and cotter pins are good practice. I don't think the plastic races are a problem since in use they have no real load on them. I believe they hold the bearings in position and hold the grease in place.