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Cheap Wire Welders

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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 07:54 AM
  #1  
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Cheap Wire Welders

It seems that the price of Mig welders is coming down....or else someone has found a cheaper way to make them. I do all my welding now with a Dayton 110V arc welder, but was thinking about buying one of these cheap Mig welders (under $200) for light welding tasks. Are they any good? I'd like to have a welder for welding thinner metal. I've never done any welding other than arc welding. Is there that much difference that I could not learn it on my own?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 11:11 AM
  #2  
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rellik74
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I have one that cost 169.00 and have done alot of rust repair on a jeep project. The cheeper on dont have a full time use you should let the rest.

This is my first welder and it is good for me as I get better at welding I will buy a better one. The is one I saw and it will do wire and Stick.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 01:04 PM
  #3  
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Huntsman
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From: Northwest Fl
Vern,
I have a 90-amp Century with the gas and it does a good job on sheet metal.

I started out using the flux core wire and was so frustrated that I shoved it under the work bench and left it there for a couple of years, when I got to the point I had to have it for sheet metal work, I purchased the argon bottle and haven't looked back. The gas greatly improved my welds and made it so much easier to use, I wouldn't take home a free one if it couldn’t be set up with the gas.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #4  
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Mike W
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From: Central Kali
Don't waste your money and time on a brand X. I have a 20 year old Hobart mig that has never failed. For thin metal tig is the way to go.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 09:24 PM
  #5  
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steak2k1
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From: Calgary Alberta
Cheap Migs...just that Cheap.

Like anything else. You pay for what you get.

For Autobody type and some light structural , about the best it gets is a 230V (input power) 150 amp mig from a reputable manufacturer. Lincoln, Miller, ESAB ...those are the names you would want to check out. Apologies to Mike...Hobart too..!! even though they are now owned by ITW (which owns Miller)

And Mikes comments about the tig process are bang on. Takes some practise though and mig is much much easier for most of the guys on this forum to learn.

There is no doubt that you will pay a bit more...but think about it, if you ever have to change the liner...where are ya gonna get one..?? (will the torch even come off the unit ..??) Will the retailer have all of the consumables in stock...contact tips, nozzles, tip adapters let alone quality welding wire. Will they have the expertise to show you and teach you a bit about using the unit...?? Not likely. Because it's not their core business.

Before you buy, take a look at the wire drive mechanism...is it plastic..?? Likely

Most reputable manufacturers will use aluminum drive stands and steel drive rolls.


Just some things to consider before you buy.

yea I work for one of the above manufacturers...but I respect all of them Because they all make quality product.

And many, many times prior in my carreer, I have seen end users come into a Praxair/BOC/Weldco store with a cheap mig in hand looking for parts.

99% of the time we were not able to help them...because the unit was non-repairable.

You may wish to look for a used mig of some sort in a "bargain finder" type of newspaper. Tthere are deals to be had...and they are worth looking for.

just my .02 from some 30+ yrs in the welding business.

Regards,

stk
 

Last edited by steak2k1; Jan 28, 2004 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #6  
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hdgapeach
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From: Franklin, GA
Check out www.lincolnelectric.com
I ain't promoting any specific brand, but this is a great site for a beginner to get all the info and all the questions answered.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:03 PM
  #7  
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Im looking for a midline that can do light sheet metal and plow frames and bumpers. Is there a machine to do both ? Im assuming the 110 volt wont do the heavy stuff
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:21 PM
  #8  
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Torque1st
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Use the search function here too. There is a ton of info on welders here in the Garage forum.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:39 PM
  #9  
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steak2k1
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From: Calgary Alberta
Middle-Weight welders

For the home shop and a decent size so that even some of the heavier welding can be accomplished...take a look at the 180 amp range.

Miller 180, ESAB 210 and I believe that Lincoln has a 185. All around $ 1700 CDN dollars. ( all are 180 amp 20-30 % duty cycle)

Good units. all. Make sure you check out what they all do. Each has different features and to add those extras to a machine that does not have them, will cost you extra.

For those that are unaware:

Duty cycle is the amount of time a machine can weld at it's rated amperage in a period of ten minutes. If it is say 20% , then one can weld 2 minutes out of ten at that rated amperage. If it is 60%, then you weld 6 minutes out of ten.

Typically you might see a machine rated @ 300 amps 60% DCycle. so one can weld 6 minutes at 300 amps...he likely can also weld at 350 amps for maybe 3 minutes and conversely 10 minutes out of ten at 250 amps.

If there is any doubt that I am in favour of quality equipment let me tell yas... When it comes to a Mig welder, No sense in buying junque. [D]...If at some point you want to sell it, a good unit will keep it's value way longer than the other stuff.


rgds,

stk
 

Last edited by steak2k1; Jan 30, 2004 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 08:29 AM
  #10  
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I understand what your saying about duty cycle, but what does that mean when Im actually welding...
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 08:22 PM
  #11  
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axman
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From: MN
duty cycle is the persent of time you can weld, a 20 persent duty cycle well weld about 2 min. out off 10 without dumping the thermo switch on the transformer, which save the transformer from over heating and damaging it. now 2 min. straight in a garage is actully alot. i have a century 155 with a 20 persent duty cycle and i weld alot never dump it out cost around $400,large 110vac i could buy .023- .030 is all i run 20 gauge to 5/16
but i when you get one there 4 thing you really need to do;
1) read the manual, it has got hint on gas a flux core like, polarity!!! (wrong polarity will drive you nuts) and tuning, wev, flow, ETC.
2) practice, practice, practice, if you've never weld or only weld once in a while take the time to get to know your welder
3) read the manual again it will answer new questions you've come up with while practicing
4) practice, practice, practice, you can never get to good
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #12  
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fordnut1985
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From: Wichita KS
alll the advice given to you above is DEAD ON save for the good stuff, go gas, etc. The only thing i can add is take a good look at what you want to do with a welder and what you MAY want to do with it in the future, nothing sucks more than the feeling that you should have went with the other setup for an extra $10. Research the net, talk to your local welding supply store, and talk to welding shops and see what they think you need (they arn't sales driven). In the same way don't blow your hard earned cash on something you will never need, and practice alot, the more you do it the more you will enjoy it. Think about it you are bonding metal with an electrical arc!!! it just don't get any better.

l8tr and happy zapping
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 07:40 AM
  #13  
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thanks, After spending years using a stick ac welder its going to be a pleasure to go to mig.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 06:31 PM
  #14  
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MattsBigf150
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From: Toledo
I have a 90amp Chigago Electric 110 "Easy Mig" that works great. I bought it at Harbor Freight Tools for about $175. I have had it for about a year now with no problems.


Matt.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2004 | 10:40 AM
  #15  
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KJKozak2
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
For what it's worth, I have the same Century as huntsman only I haven't purchased the gas for it. I've been through about a dozen spools of flux-core wire for it in 3 years and haven't had any problems.

It says it can weld up to 1/4" (or maybe 3/16"), but you can weld thicker if to do it right. I just welded up a bunch of horse shoes last night (made some coat hooks) and they're thicker than 1/4".

I also welded a 1 1/8" dia. shaft for my manure spreader when it snapped off. It's still holding strong after 6 weeks.

I don't want to hi-jack this thread, but could someone explain to me what adding shielding gas to the wire-feed welder does? Do you still use flux-core wire with the gas?

Kevin K.
 
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