3 on the tree ....sometimes
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Virginia
3 on the tree ....sometimes
hey y'all , i'm new here ( can't believe it took me this long to find this site ) anyway i was lucky enough to get layed off and have my car die in the same week , so with what little cash i had left i bought an 83 f-150 , straight 6 , with a 3 on the tree. i'm currently trying to fi all the broken stuff on here , got the list of stuff to fix on it down to new gas tank , replace choke thermostat , fix vacume leaks , fix giant rust hole , and the problem i'm about to ask about ....the shifter . when i first start my truck i can get into first very easily , but once i've started driving and i get into second it's real hard to get it back into first . alot of the times i'll be stuck at a light with people honking while i try and get it back into first . sometimes you have to pull real hard to get it to go , sometimes you have to wiggle it around . either way it aint right . the collar that the shifter is connected to is very loose , it can move all over the place . is there some way to adjust it ? is this a common problem ?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Central Virginia
Welcome aboard Bondo. This site is a wonderous source of information.
I recently I had a similar symptoms with my 84 F150. The problem was caused by the hydraulic clutch mechanism. I ended up replacing both cylinders and reenforcing the firewall where the master cylinder bolts on. It is a common problem with F150s for the firewall to flex in the master cylinder mounting area. I fixed the firewall problem by using two large washers on master cylinder mounting studs on the inside of the firewall. Good luck, I hope this helps.
I recently I had a similar symptoms with my 84 F150. The problem was caused by the hydraulic clutch mechanism. I ended up replacing both cylinders and reenforcing the firewall where the master cylinder bolts on. It is a common problem with F150s for the firewall to flex in the master cylinder mounting area. I fixed the firewall problem by using two large washers on master cylinder mounting studs on the inside of the firewall. Good luck, I hope this helps.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Virginia
ummm , what ? i didn't think my 83 had hydrolic clutch , but either way i don't think my problem is the clutch , it's the shifter on the column . imagine an automatic f150 , how the collar the shifter is on sits on there pretty tightly , on mine i can grab the collar that the shifter is on and slide it forward and backward on the column , it's very loose . i'm guessing it shouldn't be like that . like i said before , after i shift into second the shifter binds up and won't go back into first . the clutch works fine
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Welcome to FTE.
If your clutch is good, and the only slop is in the column I'd head to the local junk yard and look for a different column. I've only driven floor shift trannies since '89, but had a 77 with 3 on the tree. When they wear that bad about the only fix is to replace the worn out parts.
According to the Haynes manual 80-83 had mechanical clutch linkage. There is a good chance you have enough wear on the clutch disk or linkage that your clutch is not dis-engaging fully.
It's common for these to function flawlessly with the engine shut off, but start up and they hang up. There should be a linkage adjustment somewhere in the system. Also the firewall flex is common and hard to diagnose. I had to weld my 86 - the crack was too large to use the washer approach.
Other possibility would be your linkage. Crawl under the truck - engine off - and have someone work thru the gears. You might spot where it wants to hang up.
Could also be something like motor/tranny mounts, cab mounts, etc. Good luck with it. Hope you get back to work soon also. God bless.
If your clutch is good, and the only slop is in the column I'd head to the local junk yard and look for a different column. I've only driven floor shift trannies since '89, but had a 77 with 3 on the tree. When they wear that bad about the only fix is to replace the worn out parts.
According to the Haynes manual 80-83 had mechanical clutch linkage. There is a good chance you have enough wear on the clutch disk or linkage that your clutch is not dis-engaging fully.
It's common for these to function flawlessly with the engine shut off, but start up and they hang up. There should be a linkage adjustment somewhere in the system. Also the firewall flex is common and hard to diagnose. I had to weld my 86 - the crack was too large to use the washer approach.
Other possibility would be your linkage. Crawl under the truck - engine off - and have someone work thru the gears. You might spot where it wants to hang up.
Could also be something like motor/tranny mounts, cab mounts, etc. Good luck with it. Hope you get back to work soon also. God bless.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Virginia
me too , but hopefully i won't have this truck too long . i'd like to get another f150 in better shape , something that still has a carb though , don't even get me started on why i hate cars with computers . i found a real nice I6 f150 for 1200 , would have bought it , but i ended up with this $500 pile . it runs well , but it's just loose , and by that i mean everything feels worn out , the doors vibrate at idle , untill i can get my new choke thermostat starting it is a 2 man job , normally involving some jumper cable and using my finger to activate the choke . i like the truck , but i shouldn't have bought it .
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Dude, just wire your choke open with a paper clip. just do it on the linkage on the back of the carb. My starts in 0 degree weather, you just have to pump the gas a few times.
Your column is probably worn, but the real problem is probably your front cab rubber mount have sagged. you could shim it, but it would probably be easier just to buy an $80 hurst floot shifter and install it.. That is what i did. Just don't get the cheap $50 daytona one. they are junk.
Your column is probably worn, but the real problem is probably your front cab rubber mount have sagged. you could shim it, but it would probably be easier just to buy an $80 hurst floot shifter and install it.. That is what i did. Just don't get the cheap $50 daytona one. they are junk.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 817
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Bremen is right - don't mess with the column shift - just get the aftermarket floor shift. You can adjust it up to match the transmission and installing a shift is a lot easier than installing column. Mr. Gasket makes fairly good floor shifters kits too.
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Freshman User
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From: Virginia
i have a really long bolt holding the choke open , but it doesn't like to start in the cold without the choke , normally resulting in me killing the battery . i've found i can get into first if i wiggle the shifter in neutral and then jam it down in to first . how hard is it to install a floor shifter ? is there an indentation on the floor board where a shifter would be ? i've seen it before from the factory so they just punch out the hole and install the shifter .
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
I install the mr.gasket daytona shifter, and frankly, it sucked. get the hurst.
with the aftermarket one I did, I had to cut a hole about 4x4" just inside of the groove where the normal aluminum 4speed/tcase plate sites in the far back and right side. no big deal.
with the aftermarket one I did, I had to cut a hole about 4x4" just inside of the groove where the normal aluminum 4speed/tcase plate sites in the far back and right side. no big deal.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Virginia
what was so bad about it ? i'm poor
i could always change it to a hurst when i have more money
would it be possible for you to measure where i cut the hole ? i'm very bad at eyeballing cuts . just something like x inches from the closed passenger door , x inches from the closed driver door , x inches from firewall x by x sized hole . that would help alot since i've never done this before . i'm guessing the shifter just bolts to some kind of plate ontop of the tranny and floats free through the floor with the boot on it ?
i could always change it to a hurst when i have more money
would it be possible for you to measure where i cut the hole ? i'm very bad at eyeballing cuts . just something like x inches from the closed passenger door , x inches from the closed driver door , x inches from firewall x by x sized hole . that would help alot since i've never done this before . i'm guessing the shifter just bolts to some kind of plate ontop of the tranny and floats free through the floor with the boot on it ?
Last edited by TheBondoBandit; Jan 26, 2004 at 07:39 PM.
Logistics Pro
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From: GANS
what's so bad? it works as good as the column shift when it is stuck. Its junky, the shifter pops out of the linkages, and its sloppy as all hell.
I was real poor when I put mine and and was wishing I'd spent the extra $30.
I was real poor when I put mine and and was wishing I'd spent the extra $30.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 418
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From: Nice, California
Hey. I was wondering where you were able to find a Hurst floor shifter for $80? I checked Napa Auto Parts and for the complete Hurst kit it costs $465. Where were you able to get one for $80? I have a 1980 F-100 Custom, with a 3-speed column shift. I have no problems whatsoever with my column shift. I suppose I should leave it the way it is since I have no problems. Info on where to get the floor shifter would be greatly appreciated though. Thanks!
Logistics Pro
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From: GANS
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...goryCode=3351C
I wouldn't do it until you have trouble though.
I wouldn't do it until you have trouble though.
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Freshman User
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From: Virginia
keeping in mind that i just rolled pennies for a pack of smokes i don't think the hurst is in the cards , however a friend of mine has a daytona he'll give me for free , new in the box . it's going to have to do for now , if push comes to shove i'll weld some reinforcements to it . because as is my truck isn't drivable . it's starting to bind into second too now ....probably from all the hard hits i've been giving it to get back into first . when i was truck shoping i drove an f150 with a daytona shifter that looked like it's seen better days , and it still shifted better than what i got . i'll take my chances since i'm broke . but later down the road i'll go with a hurst ( plus i'll allready have the hole cut ) . i do appreciate your warning though .
Logistics Pro
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From: GANS
If your getting it for free, go for it. You can work it, you just have to work it slow, and when you shift, you have to put pressure on the outside (ie when going from 1 to 2, you have to push a little to your side, then push over to 2nd onces you are in neutral..
btw, mount the brackets under the tranny first, and just go straight up from where the shifter mounts underneath and poke your hole. I'd give you measurements, but I don't have that truck around (its a 45 minute drive away). Don't cut a big hole at once, just do it a little at a time. That way you don't end up with a 1' by 1' hole.
btw, mount the brackets under the tranny first, and just go straight up from where the shifter mounts underneath and poke your hole. I'd give you measurements, but I don't have that truck around (its a 45 minute drive away). Don't cut a big hole at once, just do it a little at a time. That way you don't end up with a 1' by 1' hole.