rotor change question
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 38
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From: slc, ut
rotor change question
My rotors on my 82 f150 2wd are warped and need replaced. I want to do the work myself. I checked prices at Napa and the price is for a rotor/hub assembly. Are all of the wheel bearings, caps, etc. included in this assembly? The Haynes manual makes the fix look easy, but i think that there are many more problems with the brakes than just the rotors. Any comments from the vets?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 85
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From: Solano County
Should be an easy fix but i would change the wheel bearings while you were in there. I think you have to remove them on your truck to get the rotor off. Make sure you repack the bearings even if you don't replace them. Definitly pack them if you do replace them. You might also need to have lugs pressed into the hub. Go to the parts store and look at the assembly to see what is included.
What other problems are you having with the brakes? If your rotors are bad it will feel like everything is out of whack.
What other problems are you having with the brakes? If your rotors are bad it will feel like everything is out of whack.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 22
From: Lacey, WA
wyotommy,
Hi, as Fordboy said if you are going through the trouble to put new rotors on you should go ahead and replace the bearings also. They are not an expensive item.
The new rotor will need both bearings and also the grease seal. The hardest part of this job is tapping in the new outer race for the bearings. Being a "shade tree mechanic" I use a hammer and a punch to do this. Just go slow and be VERY careful the punch doesn't slip and you scar the machined surface of the race. The new bearings will come dry and will have to be packed. Also, when installing the grease seal make sure that it starts "square" then tap it home.
Good luck,
Hi, as Fordboy said if you are going through the trouble to put new rotors on you should go ahead and replace the bearings also. They are not an expensive item.
The new rotor will need both bearings and also the grease seal. The hardest part of this job is tapping in the new outer race for the bearings. Being a "shade tree mechanic" I use a hammer and a punch to do this. Just go slow and be VERY careful the punch doesn't slip and you scar the machined surface of the race. The new bearings will come dry and will have to be packed. Also, when installing the grease seal make sure that it starts "square" then tap it home.
Good luck,
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 38
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From: slc, ut
I was definitely planning on packing the bearings, I was just wondering if the "assembly" came with bearings. I guess not. The other problem that I mentioned, but didn't elaborate on is that the front reservoir of the master cylinder loses fluid. I was told in an earlier post that this was more than likely leaking rear brake cylinders, which I would tend to agree with, considering the amount of crud inside the drums. I was planning on doing a complete rebuild on the back at a later date, including cylinders, drums, pads, and new lines. Not that all of this stuff is bad, but I am trying to do a moderate restoration on the truck.
