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I'm not quite sure how it is suppose to work. I have a 89 F250 that has something wrong in the engine compartment but the check engine light does not come on. Does the computer store codes without the light coming on? Does the light only come on for certain malfunctions? The light does come on when I start the truck and then it goes off after a second or 2. I believe that is normal. I'm confused!
Check engine light can indicate many different things, such as sensors and does not mean that you necessarly have a problem with your engine it's self. The computer does store codes and you can check them yourself with just a paperclip and a pen and paper. Read this: http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
Well actually there are at least 2 things wrong. The first being the EGR tube is now in 2 pcs and needs to be repaired/replaced. The 2nd problem has not been diagnosed but occured at the same time the tube broke. Hard to describe but almost sounds like a chain slipping. My son was driving it at the time with a load of wood in the back. Was going uphill and had a lack of power. The noise is only heard when driving, not while sitting in Park or Neutral. I haven't driven it in awhile so my memory of it all is somewhat fading. I do know this... It had a sticky lifter that would unstick after driving for a few miles. It now no longer makes the sticky lifter noise. When the new noise showed up the old one went away. Whether they are related I don't know.
The electronic engine control module (EEC) will compensate for a bad sensor reading and try to resolve driveability issues. Therefore it may not always stay lit or even light at all.
I am trying to troubleshoot a few problems myself right now and I like the troubleshooting guide in the Haynes manual. It will give you a good start on checking the various systems. It will instruct you how to retrieve the diagnostic trouble codes and how to use those codes as a guide to finding the problem. You will need some basic test equipment, which could cost less than 100 bucks; Voltmeter,ohmmeter, tachometer (can be bought as a single hand held unit for about 30 bucks), a hand-held vacuum pump with gauge, ( about 20 to 30 bucks), A set of electrical jumper wires, maybe with clips on them, or pins for piercing thru wire insulation.
It is complicated, and you must be able to read the book and understand the automotive jargon they tend to use. If you feel confident about working under the hood and can do so safely, it may be a cheaper way to go.
P.S. I forgot to mention that Autozone advertises a "free engine check light inspection" maybe you could find a place nearby to do that for you. I guess they would appreciate it if you bought some parts from them, if they help pinpoint a problem.
The broken EGR tube can make it seem down on power, with the noise. I would fix the obvious problem first, then as mentioned above, have AutoZone scan your computer. Let us know how it goes
Is is 4x4? My transfer case makes a 'chain-slipping' noise sometimes, but its not that bad and it doesnt affect power.
Sounds like your two problems are unrelated. Agree with 924, get a repair manual and go from there.
Automatic with 4 wheel drive. (2 x 4?) I do have a Chilton manual for reference (the store didn't have Haynes) but even looking under the hood is intimidating these days. Our good old 73 F250 was much easier to work on without all of the electronic this and that.