COP Test?
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COP Test?
I hosed down the engine of my 2001 F150 Supercrew PRIOR to reading all the nightmares regarding the plug cylinders getting wet and am now suffering the pains. The only thing I have not found in any of the comments here, is how to test the coils for failure. Can I check them with an ohm meter when removed? If so, what reading should I be looking for?
I replaced all the plugs with new Autolites (thinking that was the thing to do at 60K) the day before I washed it down. I have since removed, dried, and blown out the shafts on one bank only. There was a modest amount of water on/in each of them. It ran fine for about 3 miles and then began missing again. Tomorrow I plan on going through the opposite bank and drying it out. I was hoping that I could check the COPs with a meter, as opposed to pulling the wires to notice change in idle, before reinstalling them.
I also (before finding this website) placed a very VERY small amount of multi-purpose automotive lithium grease around the top seat of the rubber hoods before reinstalling them. I don't believe it is dielectric, but I hardly used much at all. Do you think this is a problem?
Thanks
I replaced all the plugs with new Autolites (thinking that was the thing to do at 60K) the day before I washed it down. I have since removed, dried, and blown out the shafts on one bank only. There was a modest amount of water on/in each of them. It ran fine for about 3 miles and then began missing again. Tomorrow I plan on going through the opposite bank and drying it out. I was hoping that I could check the COPs with a meter, as opposed to pulling the wires to notice change in idle, before reinstalling them.
I also (before finding this website) placed a very VERY small amount of multi-purpose automotive lithium grease around the top seat of the rubber hoods before reinstalling them. I don't believe it is dielectric, but I hardly used much at all. Do you think this is a problem?
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Hi knolsen and welcome to the forum 
Sorry it's taken so long for someone to get back to you. Did you get it solved yet?
Ford doesnt give us a spec (that I can find) for resistance of the coils. If you were to measure a few so you'd know what they should be that would give you something to go by but that seems like a lot of work.
I would pull either the injector connector or COP connector off with the engine idling until you find one that doesnt make any difference.
Besides blowing out the spark plug holes you can also clean the COPs with WD40 to disperse any water.
I'd guess though that if you dry out the plug holes on the bank you didnt do that it will cure it.
The grease you used shouldnt be a problem. It will just help seal out any water. Dielectric would probably be better though.
If you drive it a while with a miss the Check Engine light should come on. If you got it scanned the code would tell you which cylinder was misfiring.
Let us know what you find.
Sorry it's taken so long for someone to get back to you. Did you get it solved yet?
Ford doesnt give us a spec (that I can find) for resistance of the coils. If you were to measure a few so you'd know what they should be that would give you something to go by but that seems like a lot of work.
I would pull either the injector connector or COP connector off with the engine idling until you find one that doesnt make any difference.
Besides blowing out the spark plug holes you can also clean the COPs with WD40 to disperse any water.
I'd guess though that if you dry out the plug holes on the bank you didnt do that it will cure it.
The grease you used shouldnt be a problem. It will just help seal out any water. Dielectric would probably be better though.
If you drive it a while with a miss the Check Engine light should come on. If you got it scanned the code would tell you which cylinder was misfiring.
Let us know what you find.
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Well I went completely throught the opposite bank. Only #1 and #3 showed signs of moisture, minimal same as the other bank. I dried them off, blew out the plug shafts, and reinstalled. I reset the computer. Idled great and ran smooth for about the first 4 miles, and then began cutting out intermittently at various speeds. This is the same thing that occured when I cleaned the driver bank..first few miles runs smooth and then once it warms up it begins to hesitate and release. The 'Service Soon' light came back on after about 15 miles. I am beginning to think maybe its not misfiring but rather related to one of the fuel sensors at the throttle body that got moisture in them (reminds me of when I used to get water in my Bronco's fuel tank).
I have tried pulling the connectors off both the coil packs and/or the fuel injectors at each cylinder to try to determine which ones are the culprits, but I am amazed at how subtle the change in idle is. Shouldn't I notice a much more radical change? In the past when I've used that method on previous vehicles I recall it being a much more obvious change in idle.
I'm stumped and worse unemployed at the moment. I guess I may have to take it in and pay to have it analyzed.
I'm NEVER stickin a hose under the hood again!
I have tried pulling the connectors off both the coil packs and/or the fuel injectors at each cylinder to try to determine which ones are the culprits, but I am amazed at how subtle the change in idle is. Shouldn't I notice a much more radical change? In the past when I've used that method on previous vehicles I recall it being a much more obvious change in idle.
I'm stumped and worse unemployed at the moment. I guess I may have to take it in and pay to have it analyzed.
I'm NEVER stickin a hose under the hood again!
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
These newer vehicles compensate pretty quickly when you cancel out a cylinder but you can still usually notice quite a difference.
If you have an AutoZone close by apparently they will scan for codes for free. If you get that done make sure you write down the code number, not just the description. Someone here will have ideas for you.
If you have an AutoZone close by apparently they will scan for codes for free. If you get that done make sure you write down the code number, not just the description. Someone here will have ideas for you.
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Got the scanner from AutoZone. Indicated #5 and #8.
Spark plugs and COPs are fine (although possible, I thought it unlikely that water would actually penetrate these sealed plastic components)
I discovered the "weak Link" in the system is the connection between the COP and the spring. Remove the rubber boot from the COP and gently twist and pull the spring out of the COP (on a few of mine the spring nearly fell out!) The connector inside the plastic housing was corroded/oxidized from electrolysis probaly caused by moisture and lack of a good tight fitting to begin with. I took some emory cloth and a small file and cleaned them. THen I sprayed electric contact cleaner on them. Next I slighly crushed the end of the spring to ensure a tighter fit.
Voila! Truck idles and runs better than it ever has!!
I can't say that this is going to solve everyones misfiring problems, but I bet there have been a s--tload of new COPs purchased unnecessarily. It didn't cost me anything...give it a shot.
Many Thanks to FTE, Racerguy, and Autozone.
Spark plugs and COPs are fine (although possible, I thought it unlikely that water would actually penetrate these sealed plastic components)
I discovered the "weak Link" in the system is the connection between the COP and the spring. Remove the rubber boot from the COP and gently twist and pull the spring out of the COP (on a few of mine the spring nearly fell out!) The connector inside the plastic housing was corroded/oxidized from electrolysis probaly caused by moisture and lack of a good tight fitting to begin with. I took some emory cloth and a small file and cleaned them. THen I sprayed electric contact cleaner on them. Next I slighly crushed the end of the spring to ensure a tighter fit.
Voila! Truck idles and runs better than it ever has!!
I can't say that this is going to solve everyones misfiring problems, but I bet there have been a s--tload of new COPs purchased unnecessarily. It didn't cost me anything...give it a shot.
Many Thanks to FTE, Racerguy, and Autozone.
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