How much will it cost me to convert my A/C in my truck over to the new stuff. Everything works, no leaks or anything but it needs to be converted. So I can have some cold air again. I was told it would cost me about $200 to $300 to convert it to the new system. I think that price is a rip off. Let me know what you all think it will cost. Thanks again everyone.

 

If everything works and there's no leaks, why would you want to convert it over?

 

cause the old stuff is no good!

 

To do it right, the system needs evacuated and the drier and orifice tube should be replaced so they don't fail under the increased pressure of 134a. The labor and parts could easily add up to $300 for all of that. If the aforementioned parts aren't replaced, you run the risk of killing your compressor and contaminating the rest of the system, so I would avoid anyone who says that they can do it without replacing them.

 

Did it, never had problem and you won't if you do it right. $300 forget that. Buy the retro kit, make sure you replace the compressor oil vacuum it and recharge it. About $35.

 

How do you replace the compressor oil?

 

I tried that kit after letting out all of the stuff and after I put that kit stuff in with the oil the PSI went crazy. Are you sure about that kit?

 

You haven't got cold A/C. The system needs to be properly evaluated, there are many reasons for A/C failures.
Do not mess with this system, unless you are positive you know what you are doing. I hope to God you didn't release the remaining R12 into the air. Goodbye ozone layer, I think I'll start investing heavily in Coppertone.

There are guys that have retrofitted from r-12 to r-134a by using the 30 dollar NAPA kit, and got the A/C working just fine; sometimes they wing it without manifold gauges or vacuum pump, others have a basic set of A/C tools and get the job done too. Then there is the other group... no matter how hard they tried, the darn thing just won't cool.

First of all, if you walk in cold(clueless) to a repair shop, 9 times out of 10, the techs will start talking big bucks. Ford dealers always will quote you 1000 dollars and up. New compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, condensor, charges for recovery of R12 refrigerant, new refrigerant, PAG oil, o-rings, and LABOR. Then you'll probably have a good system, but you will feel alot poorer.
Your local shops are a little more risky, they are going to quote a better price, and may do a good job, but again, they will try to get the system up and running so that it doesn't come back and bite them for a warranty repair; this means that they are likely to replace as much as they can to cover their butt.

No matter what happens... you do it yourself,.. or take it to a shop; you really need to learn about the system in your truck. This way, you can make a logical decision about where your money is going and will it be worth it. It is 6 months to warm weather!!!! So take your time and do it right.

 

I don't know how you can tell if R-12 is no good, but if everything is working and there are no leaks, hook up some gauges and check pressures. If the system has some cooling during mild temps, but stops cooling as the day gets warmer your accumulator may be saturated with moisture or have air in the system. Evacuate, R&R the accumulator, pull a vacuum and recharge the system. If you have one in your area, Harbor Freight sells a vacuum pump for ten bucks that runs off shop air. Worked fine for me. Last time I bought R-12 (in August) it was $36 a can.

 

Bill C, can I see your certification to handle R-12? If your'e getting it without a cert, you are doing so illegally. My point is...you can't buy R12 anymore without an EPA certification. The stuff is poison, it's a hot potatoe, it's practically banned in the USA and I don't think anyone is allowed to produce it anywhere. If it is available, it is most likely from recycling stations and is of lower quality. If you can get it from ebay or Mexico, don't tell the entire world about it, dig?

Which brings us back to retrofitting the system to R134a. You are not allowed to break an R12 system open to the air, or push the shraeder valve open and let the R12 into the air, or service an R12 system without an OK from the Feds. Converting to r134a is a great idea, just don't mess with A/C until you get the R12 recovered.

I hope everyone is taking their soon to be retrofitted R12 systems to a shop for a legal evacuation, and recovery of the refrigerant. I am tired of everyone screwing up the air I breathe and the atmosphere that keeps my lily white butt from burning.

 

Certified? Yeah--that's it. Get a certified service center to "capture" your toxic R12. Everyone knows it is so highly reactive that it defies gravity by raising above lighter gases. Then it passes through several thermal layers in an unstable form. Fails to react with ground level ozone or anything else until it approaches the upper stratosphere. Then it reacts with all the ozone there so "lilly whites" will all die from cancer. I never did buy the whole save the ozone line--just doesn't pass the straight face test. Wanna protect the environment? Cut your computer and AC off. And while you're at it, stop driving when you could walk or ride a bike. I would guess most folks that are switching to 134 are doing so because their system failed and already vented their good ole 12. For the record, all of my R12 vented to atmosphere when the high pressure line failed in traffic last summer. It sprayed all over my driver side manifold. You should have seen the smoke rolling out of my hood from the oil burning!

 

Why does it cost so much to convert it anyway, the parts must not cost so much?

 

you guys are messed up it here in town they willl test the r12 and make sure its pure pressure test your system to make sure no leaks so long as they can have you old R12 then all you need is the kit for the change over which you can buy at walmart for well i forget how much but its no 2 or 300 bucks only thing there is to replace is the adapter that fills the 134a. Now when they first had the change over kits 134a wasn't as easy to change over cause it would eat seals and **** but they have since fixed that. So all you need to do is call some air conditioner place tell them you have a vehicle with R12 in it and see how much they charge to vacum and pressure test it. They should do it for free if you let them have the R12 cause its like 50 bucks for 12 Oz last yr . Then go buy a changeover kit which has all the oil you need and 134A

 

95blackf150 are you sure that will work and not screw up the system?

 

As far as the enviromental thing goes.... the less crap you put in the air the less crap you and your kids and your kids kids have to breathe in. $300 to convert the whole thing, find out exactly what they intend to do, itemize the job. It ain't cheap but it ain't that bad either.