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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 09:43 PM
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Question Help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi!

I was wondering if anyone out there can help me. My boyfriend and I are building a 48 F1. We are using a 302 and are having trouble trying to decide to use or not use the original radiator that came with the flat head. We are not sure if the low pressure of this radiator would be save to use with the 302 or if we should get an aftermarket radiator that would work.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions that you might give us!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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Welcome to both of you! What a great 'togetherness' project for a couple. I know you'll learn a lot about your truck and I bet you'll learn even more about each other before you're done

You didn't ask about getting rid of one inlet and one outlet, so I figure you had a 6 cylinder engine in the truck before. Either way, if you use the original rad, keep in mind it's 55 years old. I had to have mine re-cored, which makes it a new radiator with old tanks on top and bottom. Thing is, it cost me $285 at a local radiator shop and is still only good for the 7# pressure cap.

If you want to use the typical 13-17# pressure cap, then go with a new manufacture radiator capable of handling that much.

It's not a yes/no answer, but I'd probably go with a new rad if using a 302 since it was designed for higher temp/pressure.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 12:03 AM
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I would go with newer and save a lot of trouble down the road.. If it did work it would very marginal at best . Remember it is 56 years old rad and not improving with age. It was not designed for this much of a load as the newer engine would subject it to.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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A mid to late 70s Ford truck radiator will bolt in with very minor mods. (New hoses and drill a couple holes). Welcome to the forum.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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'fenders,

On that 70s truck radiator...where are the outlets located....top and bottom, right, left, or center?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 01:45 PM
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Thanks so much for all the information. The truck, "Betty," actually came with the V8. The unfortunate thing is, we do not have a local radiator shop, but I'm sure there is one close enought around here.

This actually our second project together, we both love old Fords. Our first was a 1970 F250 4X4. This will be our first "rod together."

We have plenty of parts laying around, so I'm sure we will find a good radiator in the mix somewhere.

Thanks again
 
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 12:57 AM
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radiator

I do things a little different than most folks on this forum. Before you write the old radaitor off I would check it out real good. Stop up the bottom and top outlets with short pieces of hose, outlett to outlet. Fill the radiator let it sit but not where it will freeze. Check for leaks. Now you can do a crude pressure test. Take a garden hose and some rags to stuff around the garden hose, place the hose in the top where the cap goes. Now with the outlets still plugged, the radaitor full of water and the top around the garden hose sealed with a rag and your hand holding it in place turn the garden hose all the way on and check for leaks. You will probably get a little wet. Most bad leaks will show up by squirting water. Slow leaks should have shown up durring the static test. If it is not broke dont fix it. The flathead V8 has a reputation for overheating. The Fords of that era had massive radators to deal with that. Just compare the size of a 65 289 radaitor in a Mustang to the one in your F-1. I run a 68 302 with the the old flathead radaitor and cap in a 50 F-1. It does just fine and has never overheated. Later model radaitors can be made to fit but they require fabrication and most will not seal with the hood or have the massive cooling capacity as the original. You can have the 2 extra outlets soldered up with copper pipe plugs. Smallblock Fords have 2 different water pump inlet locations. The 289 and early 302 pump inlet is on the right side and the later models are on the left. Keep this in mind when choosing wich outlet to block off or when changing radaitors. Both types off water pumps will bolt on but they may block the timing marks. If I were you I would go with a good original radiator. A 6cyl would be fine because they have more cooling capacity than most later model radaitors. Have it recored or just rodded out depending on condition, buy a new replacement, and last, head to the junkyard with a measuring tape to find a replacement. One good thing about a 302 is you can match the water pump to the radaitor outlet on the bottom. You may haft to make a makeshift timing mark but it will work. Sorry for the length. Hope this helps., Travis.
 
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