Back Window Install Questions
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Back Window Install Questions
I have a 1962 Ford pick-up and the back window and the side window were broken out. I know the new window rubber install isn't easy.
I've read that "string" covered with soap will help pull the rubber out when I get the window installed, any help on that idea?
Have to admit......I'm getting addicted to this site!
Yay for FTE !!
I've read that "string" covered with soap will help pull the rubber out when I get the window installed, any help on that idea?
Have to admit......I'm getting addicted to this site!
Yay for FTE !!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Thanks Nathan :0)
My instincts told me the inside out part, but I wasn't sure. And was too embarassed to say anything about it.
Do you know "how" the string deal works? I mean, do you literally insert the string completely around the seal prior to install? Or do you work a little bit at a time?
You're an angel for topping off the subject.
Thanks.
My instincts told me the inside out part, but I wasn't sure. And was too embarassed to say anything about it.
Do you know "how" the string deal works? I mean, do you literally insert the string completely around the seal prior to install? Or do you work a little bit at a time?
You're an angel for topping off the subject.
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Per Restoration book:HP Books
a) Sloch little soapy water in grove on windshield gasket that goes over car body, then wrap strong piece of string in groove and tape ends to glass temporarily.(have seen where suggest overlap few inches bottom center)
b)Have assistant press the windshield into the opening from inside, then slowly pull string so gasket lip slips out over sheet metal at bottom.
c)As helper presses glass into place, slowly keep pulling the ends of the string until you wind up at the top of the winshield in its center.
d)If there are any places where the lip of the gasket didn't quite pop into place, use a tongue depressor, popsicle stick, or piece of wood to work the gasket out over surrounding sheet metal.
Shop manual basically says same.
Intend to install windows in my 65 soon. Post outcome, would be interested if any suggestions.
Hopefully some help. Good luck,
dave
a) Sloch little soapy water in grove on windshield gasket that goes over car body, then wrap strong piece of string in groove and tape ends to glass temporarily.(have seen where suggest overlap few inches bottom center)
b)Have assistant press the windshield into the opening from inside, then slowly pull string so gasket lip slips out over sheet metal at bottom.
c)As helper presses glass into place, slowly keep pulling the ends of the string until you wind up at the top of the winshield in its center.
d)If there are any places where the lip of the gasket didn't quite pop into place, use a tongue depressor, popsicle stick, or piece of wood to work the gasket out over surrounding sheet metal.
Shop manual basically says same.
Intend to install windows in my 65 soon. Post outcome, would be interested if any suggestions.
Hopefully some help. Good luck,
dave
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
Glass Installation 101. . . .
Sam,
( I hope you do not mind me calling you Sam' if so, say so Plse)
I do this all the time and can give you a few suggestions. For starters this is a two person exercise at least. Get and use brand new Nylon Blind Cord (for old venetion blinds). Start by cutting it 1 & 1/3 - 1/2 the total circumference of glass.
"Weave" of Nylon V- Blind cord is like that of "climbers rope" and greatly reduces chance of tearing/ ripping rubber gasket during installation. standard twines and strings easily "cut" the rubber.
Use mild liquid soap like Ivory, NOT DETERGENT which can streak some finishes. Put cord in a container of the soapy water mix & let it soak and saturate fully. Objective is lubrication so "slippery" is what matters. Remember it's Mild Soap, water will rinse it off!
Clean edge of glass w/good glass cleaner that leaves no residue or film. Also clean groove in gasket where glass sits or "Beds". I put a movers quilt, or old blanket on my work bench for a soft surface to work on.
Next using non-hardening semi adhesive silicone or butyl caulk, run thin bead inside bottom glass bedding groove of gasket. Then run it up both sides about 1/2 way "mol". Some folks run caulk all the way around the groove. I do not because top will be leakproof as it is "upside down" and water does not not flow up.
Place & fit gasket on glass by turning glass, bottom edge up, on work bench. Push gasket in place so caulk starts to squish out (now you see why we use a thin bead). Remove all excess caulking with appropriate solvent as U work. (less messy 4 U)
Once gasket is fitted on glass, use small paint brush to liberally soap up groove in gasket that goes over pinch weld of window opening. Next place saturated cord in that groove. Arrange cord so ends by pass each other at BOTTOM of window. Slather your pinchweld one time with paint brush loaded with soapy water.
Carry Glass, gasket, cord, etc, over & into to truck. place bottom of gasket so pinchweld groove is slightly on pinchweld facing out, cord ends must be outside in bed, or against back of cab. Person inside holds glass & gasket at a steep angle like 80-85 degrees to the floor, and applies gentle down pressure.
Second person takes one end of cord and with a rolling motion works lip of the gasket over the pinchweld as they remove the cord from groove. By rolling motion I mean as if one were using a pencil to draw a circle.
FWIW, Working towards pass/ side along bottom of window use a clockwise rolling motion as most likely it will work best. If that cord is used all way around and back to beginning clockwise will be consistent left to right direction. (top is same inverted) BUT. . .
When "pulling" cord to driver/side it req's a counter clockwise motion be used because you reversed direction. In theory new direction, being Right to Left, is opposite from Left to Right, okay?
That being said, I prefer working both sides evenly as possible in order to prevent glass breakage, I pull Pass Side cord to point window "turns up". Then I do same with driver/ side cord while a person inside keeps very steady, constant, moderate downward pressure so gasket "slips" into place/ position.
Next work up on both sides a little on each side at a time. Inside person shadows cord pullers moves, applying appropriate even pressure outward, sort of gently pushing gasket & glass into the opening. When both sides are "lipped inplace" apply a little total downward force pushing it all to bottom of opening.
As top is worked remember to stick with clock wise & counter clock wise motion on correct cord! We do not want to rip/ tear the gasket, especially along top! It's just a matter of rolling cords and working toward top, center, of opening, that is widest popint & must be done last to be done right!
HINTS & TIPS
I use a tool sold on Tool Trucks Snap On, MAC, Cornwell Maatco, etc, and also sold by Sears, called a "Cotter Key Removal Tool". It is more or less an Awl with a right angle bend & slight jog in it. I blunt the "point" on a grinder to dull it. I also use soapy water to lube the tool as I use it. This tool is useful for getting in/ under lip where cord is located to start, assist, and encourage the lip to flip out and over the pinch weld.
Key is to "Work" gasket & glass into place by AVOIDING FORCE. If you feel any need to use or apply any "force" you are not doing something correctly.
This pretty much is how/ same way a windshield is set in place, except windshields are done from outside, not inside.
On windows with Stainless Steel "Bright"Hard Trim, position the SS Mldgs in gasket before installing in truck, but leave 4 "cover" clips off until final step at end of installation.
Windows using bright/ black "lock strip" pop in bead, bead gets installed last after window & gasket have been installed.
As for door glass, FWIW left & right ( driver & Passenger side glass are the identical same glass. What makes them different on installation is bottom channel where rollers are located. Both L&R channels face the roller mount pins on window regulator, so they face in opposite directions. None the less either door window is a suitable pattern for the other.
The botom roller channels, however are L/H & R/H specific.
So now you can set your windows with understanding Sam. . .
GOOD LUCK and good working. . . .if you got questions ask!
Whew, should I copyright this? Heh heh heh heee!...
FBp
( I hope you do not mind me calling you Sam' if so, say so Plse)
I do this all the time and can give you a few suggestions. For starters this is a two person exercise at least. Get and use brand new Nylon Blind Cord (for old venetion blinds). Start by cutting it 1 & 1/3 - 1/2 the total circumference of glass.
"Weave" of Nylon V- Blind cord is like that of "climbers rope" and greatly reduces chance of tearing/ ripping rubber gasket during installation. standard twines and strings easily "cut" the rubber.
Use mild liquid soap like Ivory, NOT DETERGENT which can streak some finishes. Put cord in a container of the soapy water mix & let it soak and saturate fully. Objective is lubrication so "slippery" is what matters. Remember it's Mild Soap, water will rinse it off!
Clean edge of glass w/good glass cleaner that leaves no residue or film. Also clean groove in gasket where glass sits or "Beds". I put a movers quilt, or old blanket on my work bench for a soft surface to work on.
Next using non-hardening semi adhesive silicone or butyl caulk, run thin bead inside bottom glass bedding groove of gasket. Then run it up both sides about 1/2 way "mol". Some folks run caulk all the way around the groove. I do not because top will be leakproof as it is "upside down" and water does not not flow up.
Place & fit gasket on glass by turning glass, bottom edge up, on work bench. Push gasket in place so caulk starts to squish out (now you see why we use a thin bead). Remove all excess caulking with appropriate solvent as U work. (less messy 4 U)
Once gasket is fitted on glass, use small paint brush to liberally soap up groove in gasket that goes over pinch weld of window opening. Next place saturated cord in that groove. Arrange cord so ends by pass each other at BOTTOM of window. Slather your pinchweld one time with paint brush loaded with soapy water.
Carry Glass, gasket, cord, etc, over & into to truck. place bottom of gasket so pinchweld groove is slightly on pinchweld facing out, cord ends must be outside in bed, or against back of cab. Person inside holds glass & gasket at a steep angle like 80-85 degrees to the floor, and applies gentle down pressure.
Second person takes one end of cord and with a rolling motion works lip of the gasket over the pinchweld as they remove the cord from groove. By rolling motion I mean as if one were using a pencil to draw a circle.
FWIW, Working towards pass/ side along bottom of window use a clockwise rolling motion as most likely it will work best. If that cord is used all way around and back to beginning clockwise will be consistent left to right direction. (top is same inverted) BUT. . .
When "pulling" cord to driver/side it req's a counter clockwise motion be used because you reversed direction. In theory new direction, being Right to Left, is opposite from Left to Right, okay?
That being said, I prefer working both sides evenly as possible in order to prevent glass breakage, I pull Pass Side cord to point window "turns up". Then I do same with driver/ side cord while a person inside keeps very steady, constant, moderate downward pressure so gasket "slips" into place/ position.
Next work up on both sides a little on each side at a time. Inside person shadows cord pullers moves, applying appropriate even pressure outward, sort of gently pushing gasket & glass into the opening. When both sides are "lipped inplace" apply a little total downward force pushing it all to bottom of opening.
As top is worked remember to stick with clock wise & counter clock wise motion on correct cord! We do not want to rip/ tear the gasket, especially along top! It's just a matter of rolling cords and working toward top, center, of opening, that is widest popint & must be done last to be done right!
HINTS & TIPS
I use a tool sold on Tool Trucks Snap On, MAC, Cornwell Maatco, etc, and also sold by Sears, called a "Cotter Key Removal Tool". It is more or less an Awl with a right angle bend & slight jog in it. I blunt the "point" on a grinder to dull it. I also use soapy water to lube the tool as I use it. This tool is useful for getting in/ under lip where cord is located to start, assist, and encourage the lip to flip out and over the pinch weld.
Key is to "Work" gasket & glass into place by AVOIDING FORCE. If you feel any need to use or apply any "force" you are not doing something correctly.
This pretty much is how/ same way a windshield is set in place, except windshields are done from outside, not inside.
On windows with Stainless Steel "Bright"Hard Trim, position the SS Mldgs in gasket before installing in truck, but leave 4 "cover" clips off until final step at end of installation.
Windows using bright/ black "lock strip" pop in bead, bead gets installed last after window & gasket have been installed.
As for door glass, FWIW left & right ( driver & Passenger side glass are the identical same glass. What makes them different on installation is bottom channel where rollers are located. Both L&R channels face the roller mount pins on window regulator, so they face in opposite directions. None the less either door window is a suitable pattern for the other.
The botom roller channels, however are L/H & R/H specific.
So now you can set your windows with understanding Sam. . .
GOOD LUCK and good working. . . .if you got questions ask!
Whew, should I copyright this? Heh heh heh heee!...
FBp
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Glass Install Help from FTE Guys
Ok, I think I love you guys. Thanks Dave, Nathan and Pete.
(Pete, you can call me Sam anytime......
)Can you tell me how to make a Gallery, because I want to share some photos of my truck with you guys so you can at least see the results of your advice and help. Also, I really enjoyed looking at everyone else's trucks.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate your knowledge and help.
