Can't go into KOER test
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
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From: Concord, NC
Can't go into KOER test
I've swapped in a computer and mass-air system from a 5.0 mustang, using all the original truck sensors and wiring harness modified for the new computer. I can get KOEO codes without a hitch, but for some reason I can't get it to do anything for KOER. I can hear it cycle various solonoids, but then it stops and just sits there. I wait for the goose signal, but I never see it or the engine code that is supposed to blink out. KOER always worked fine with the old truck computer. I'm nearly 100% sure that the wiring is correct for the mustang computer. I'm having trouble with it pinging severely at low (below 2000) rpms, and I'm wondering if this is an indication that something is not right. I only get a code 67 about the clutch or neutral switch in KOEO. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them. I've checked everything I know to check and I still have the pinging. Thanks.
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 23
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From: Vancouver Island
Try resetting the computer ,disconnect the battery terminals and leave it sit for 15 minutes.
Hook it back up and let it learn the sytems again and check your timing when this is done ,I had the same sort of problem a while ago .
See where your timing is at full advance 3000 rpm with the timing light in place ( should be around 34 degrees) If its up at 40 It will ping like crazy.
Hook it back up and let it learn the sytems again and check your timing when this is done ,I had the same sort of problem a while ago .
See where your timing is at full advance 3000 rpm with the timing light in place ( should be around 34 degrees) If its up at 40 It will ping like crazy.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
I've reset the computer multiple times, each time to no avail. Base timing is around 8 degrees best guess, the mustang computer should give about 36 degrees total timing if I remember correctly. I have not checked this as I don't own a timing light, and I set it back from when I set it at 10 with my friend's light. The way the truck runs, it feels like the timing advance comes in way too early. Above say 3000 rpm, it feels flat with no get up where the timing is now. At 10 degrees it felt awesome above 3000, but I was afraid the motor would ping itself to death at low rpms. I'll see if I can't get a timing light and see what the advance is doing. Thanks for the reply.
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Vancouver Island
This sound a bit extreme but what I did to stop any detonation (pinging) was take the heads off and polish and de-burr the combustion chambers as well as the pistons ,what this does is stop any pre-ignition caused by any (hot spots) in the combustion chamber.
I did this because i use my truck for towing and the HO motor i installed does not have any boss for a knock sensor .
This is a lot of work but i feel it as a last resort for your problem.
I did this because i use my truck for towing and the HO motor i installed does not have any boss for a knock sensor .
This is a lot of work but i feel it as a last resort for your problem.
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
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Did you check the timeing with the spout connector pluged up.? Try removeing it with the key off, then check to see what you have. Good luck.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
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From: Concord, NC
Yep spout was out. The odd part is, it pings at low rpms when any kind of load is put on the engine. Even if when I'm letting the clutch out, keeping the throttle in the same position, it pings under that load, then when the load drops, it stops pinging. Trouble is, most of my driving is under load, so I don't want to drive it much because I'm afraid of breaking something.
Geffy, would the hot spots cause knocking at lower or higher rpms? That could be a possibility, even due to carbon build up since the truck has 130000 miles on it. I ran some sea foam through it to see if carbon build up may have been the problem, but I saw no improvement. That means it's either heavily built up or there isn't any, I don't know which. You're right about the mustang computer not using a knock sensor. I checked all over thinking my wiring diagram might have been incorrect, but everything said that it didn't need a knock sensor. I'm probably just going to get it back to stock for now since I really don't have the time to tear down the motor at this point, I may just wait until this engine gives out (hoping it will be a while) and go from there. Thanks for the idea, I hadn't thought of that.
Geffy, would the hot spots cause knocking at lower or higher rpms? That could be a possibility, even due to carbon build up since the truck has 130000 miles on it. I ran some sea foam through it to see if carbon build up may have been the problem, but I saw no improvement. That means it's either heavily built up or there isn't any, I don't know which. You're right about the mustang computer not using a knock sensor. I checked all over thinking my wiring diagram might have been incorrect, but everything said that it didn't need a knock sensor. I'm probably just going to get it back to stock for now since I really don't have the time to tear down the motor at this point, I may just wait until this engine gives out (hoping it will be a while) and go from there. Thanks for the idea, I hadn't thought of that.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Vancouver Island
I was reading up on some distributor specs and read that there is a difference in the truck and mustang , I think the mustang has an extra pick-up inside ,I'll try to find the article and let you know (it could be that simple).
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Vancouver Island
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
Yeah I unplugged the vacuum line, and actually replaced the MAP with a BAP from a mustang because the Haynes manual led me to believe that the sensor was giving an incorrect reading (but it really wasn't). The distributor thought crossed my mind as well, and is a definite possiblity. I assume the extra tooth tells the computer when it hits tdc in cylinder 1. I thought they were the same, but I guess the truck computer can just count teeth and not really need to know where number 1 is since it is batch fire. I'll see if I can't get one from a junkyard real cheap and see if that helps. I'll check out that link as well. Thanks so much for your help.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
Update: I looked at the teeth for the hall effect sensor in my distributor, and cylinder 1 is narrower than the rest. I guess that's not my problem 
. Thanks again for your ideas...
One more thought I had, was that I have a code 67 for the neutral safety switch. On the Mustangs, the switch makes a circuit between pin 30 and SigRtn, pin 46. If that circuit isn't completed, would the computer be confused and change timing up thinking that the vehicle is in neutral?
. Thanks again for your ideas...One more thought I had, was that I have a code 67 for the neutral safety switch. On the Mustangs, the switch makes a circuit between pin 30 and SigRtn, pin 46. If that circuit isn't completed, would the computer be confused and change timing up thinking that the vehicle is in neutral?
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; Jan 19, 2004 at 01:19 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 23
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From: Vancouver Island
You have them in the right spots.
Check the neutral switch ,If the switch thought it was engaged it would retard the timing .
Maybe in some crazy way the switch is reversed and is advancing the timing when it shouldn't.
Check the neutral switch ,If the switch thought it was engaged it would retard the timing .
Maybe in some crazy way the switch is reversed and is advancing the timing when it shouldn't.