had warped head, took it and got her shaved but was really nasty inside. man at head shop said it was really bad.
what will help clean the rest of the engine the best? thought maybe remove pan and and clean it with diesel can i take it off without moving the motor?

 

i had some 5.0 HO lifters and the spider bar soaking in diesel for a week and then i checked them and they did not come clean. i am not sure what will get it off just don't use 10w40 oil. that and the mixture of synthetic oil and regular oil will cause it to get worse or come back

 

Ever try diesel oil? It'll foam up inside the engine and clean off places were regular oil was only splashed.

 

maybe if you rin full synthetic for a few hundred miles then drain it. that stuff cleans well.

 

hey red... diesel oil.. like delo 400 or diesel fuel? run diesel oil through it for an hour or two or use it to clean with? the fuel will cut but i may have to drop the pan and scrub it...i guess

 

try draining your oil and replacing it with deisel fuel. run it for about 15 minutes (thats all I ever had the nerve to) and drain. put new oil in and change it after about 500 miles. worked great for me : )

 

you ran a motor with straight diesel for oil. i won't ever try that.

 

probably wouldnt be a good idea on a fresh rebuild but if i had a running motor and was going to rebuild it it wouldnt bother be a bit to run it with diesel fuel for oil for 10 min or so then let the rebuild begin

 

Assuming you have 6 quart oil capacity, put 1 quart trans fluid and five quarts oil in it. Do that at every change (and change it every 500 - 1000 miles), and it will clean it up.
When I worked as a mechanic in the Air Force, there was a procedure for doing an engine flush using 50/50 oil and kerosene (diesel fuel). Been a long time ago and I don't recall the details, so do so at your own risk
BTW, changed the oil one time in a 391 Ford (IIRC), and forgot to put oil back in it. Ran it for 1/2 an hour before checking and discovering my mistake. Did not do any noticable damage.
Had a lot of fun learning at taxpayer expense

Steve

 

Diesel oil is a lousy cleaner. You should never put it in your oil unless you want bearing damage.

The answer is to scrape off all you can get to, clean all of it out good and button it back up. Change the oil (without starting it) and leave the oil one quart low when you refill it. Then add a quart of Type F ATF and drive it 500 miles or so. Then change the oil and filter again.

Now, to prevent a reoccurence, make sure you change oil at regular intervals (3000 miles) and RUN THE PROPER 190 DEGREE THERMOSTAT! This cannot be stressed enough. Not enough engine heat means condensation inside the motor, which mixes with oil and becomes sludge.

 

Diesel oil (as in Rotella T, Chevron Delo, etc) is not going to damage your bearings (not to good for flat tappet cams though).

So I'm going to assume you meant diesel fuel.
Truck diesel engines get lots of fuel in the oil (from excessive idling) and still go over a million miles between overhauls.
Diesel is also a lubricant, just ask a Cat or Cummins mechanic what happens when gasoline is run in one of their motors.
It destroys the injectors due to lack of "lubrication".

I'm not a fan of using kerosene/diesel fuel (otherwise known a s#1 and #2 fuel oil) to clean a motor. Auto transmission fluid is 10 weight oil with lots of detergent (and other stuff) added.
Type F or Dexron/Mercon will work equally well.

 

Just remember how much your oil pump is gonna get blocked up by doing any of some of the above, perhaps?
Not that I have a degree in engine technologies, but I would say run light oil (5/30) and run vehicle for 200miles, then change oil...make sure you reach and hold operating temp for some time (at least a good hour or more, think about it!) The 200miles could be in a couple of trips.... do this 3 times, maybe more if ambitious! Filter changes each time is a must of course! Actually, who knows how clean the motor is gonna be after this, it depends how sludged up it is to begin with.....If it is really far gone, good luck! My boss sold his Jeep with an inline 6 (engine don't really matter in this case anyway) and the kid almost never changed the oil!!!! I never saw such caking in a valve cover!!!!
He eventually trashed it completley and traded it in so we never got to see the real innerds! they must of been rough!
If the sludging is near this bad, there won't be much you can do, just drive it till it dies, because you WILL plug up oil galleries by trying to clean it!!!! It will be like giving your engine a stroke!!!

 

I am not to sure on the diesel fuel or ATF fluid type of cleaners. I for one would never use that approach. I would be concerned about washing out the oil to the point of causing damage to the bearings and cylinders.

What does work and is safe to use is SeaFoam. It can be purchased at NAPA stores or their web site. SeaForm is a decarbonizer that can be used in may ways. One method is to use about a 1/3 to 1/2 of a can before changing the oil. This stuff WORKS and is SAFE. I used it in a 91 Toyota camry. They are notorious for burning oil on startup. The valve system has the cam above the valve in a recessed hole with shims to adjust valve clearances. When carbon builds up in that area it forces oil past the valve seals into the combustion camber. My camry had 270,000 miles on it and smokes pretty bad on startup. I ran a 1/2 a can of SeaForm before changing oil and the car has not smoked since. I now have 298,000 miles on car and still running the interstate at 90mph getting 31 mpg.

It also work good when sucked into to intake through a vaccum hose to break up carbon on valves and intake system and combustion camber.....trust me after you use it your care will SMOKE big time...but you will see the carbon it has cleaned up in the end of the tail pipe. If you had something with some carbon buildup just take a little SeaForm and pour on a move it around with your finger...you can see it just dissolve......great stuff.....works good in two stroke motors to help clean them up as well....you know if you can run it in a two stroke motor you do not have to worry about causing bearing damage.

Just use it before every oil change for awhile and you should start feeling a difference.

 

Think about oil flow path
Oil pan -> Oil pick up (remember the screen?) -> oil pump -> oil filter -> oil galleries.

If you are going to plug up anything, it will more than likely be the oil pick up screen. I have a 4.9L in the garage right now, that was reduced to a 1/4" opening for oil, due to plugging of the pick up screen. It trashed the motor (crank, bearings, cam, lifters, cylinder walls).

Steve

 

You would not use transmission fluid (high detergent 10 weight oil) in your motor, but you would put Sea Foam in your oil?

Sea Foam
Naphtha 25 - 35% by wt
Boiling point 180 degrees F

http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/trans_tune.pdf

Personally, I will stick to the auto trans fluid, I know it's safe (been doing it for 30 years)

BTW, Sea Foam Motor Treatment and Sea Foam Trans Tune use the same MSDS (thus implying they are the same), interesting.

Steve