i have an 88 f250 diesel. The clutch is getting low. In fact today, its cold and won't go into gear. Is there a way to adjust the hydraulic clutch? Perhaps bleed it? I am not familiar with the ford hydraulic clutch.

 

You might have the same trouble I had. My truck wouldn't go into gear easily and it turned out to be the bracket that holds the clutch and brake pedals was broken, not allowing the push rod to travel far enough to engage the clutch.

Just a thought.

Also, have you tried just adding fluid to the clutch master cylinder?

 

Thanks I will check the bracket. The fluid level looks okay.

 

if the bracket is broken i think ford makes a brace for the bracket that comes in a kit form.at least thier was one for my 84 f250.does anybody know if this is still availible?just wondered?

 

You can not tell by looking. Raise the hood and have someone watch the clutch master cylinder while you push the clutch. If the master cylinder moves then it needs a brace welded on the firewall to reinforce the firewall. The cracks are in a place you can not see because of all the insulation on both sides of the firewall.

 

thats good to know

 

It moves a bit. It seems like a hard place to weld with all the plasitc nearby.

 

Kurt, Ford had a TSB on reinforcing the firewall. I think I have it somewhere in my pile of paperwork. Essentially it is apiece of plate that bolts-rivets in an area behind the clutch master cylinder. You need to get the rod that attaches from the rear of the clutch master cylinder to the pedal linkage new. It is adjustable,but splines onto the lingage shaft by cutting its on splines as it is pushed on by the locknut. Put a new one on each time you change clutches and you will be ahead of the game.
You can also take a clutch master cyl. pushrod( official name) and cut off the ends and make a longer adjustable portion to get more pedal, I did. Another big help while you have the clutch out is to drill and tap a release bearing to accept a grease fitting, pull the inspection plate and give it one burp every other time you service the truck will help a lot btdt. In any event ,I will try to find the TSB, it covers, the re-plate, throw out bearing, and clutch fork.
Shoot me an e-mail and I'll see if I can't get it to you over the weekend. ncshooter

 

It does not have to move much before it does not work right.
I did not change anything other than the repair bracket bolted and welded in.

I cut the plastic away and welded mine in. I do not want to take any chances on the clutch master cylinder bending up into the engine compatrment while I am plowing snow some cold and dark night. Seems like I push the clutch about 5000 times per inch of snow we get. No wonder my left leg hurt after that 28" er last year.

When I put my turbo on the rest of the plastic went away as well, looked like a fire waiting to happen on the downpipe. You also have to be careful welding because of the insulation on the inside of the cab.

This repair does not require the removal of the clutch disc.

There is a bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder under the truck. Seems like you can never get all the air out though. If I can get mine to the point I can drive it I just fill the master cylinder and go drive around for a bit. All the air seems to work right out that way.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I hope that I don't need a new clutch -Its not slipping or burning. Ford says they have some kind of repair bracket for $15.00. I will get that and go from there. I am not in a big hurry-I could use the truck but don't need it. Its been around 0 farenheight the last few days and I don't have a heated shop so I am not getting too excited.

 

dont start on the heated shop thing again.but i need one too!

 

sounds like I may have the same problem with my 86, it is still spinning the internals when I try to shift into reverse or first, and the clutch is all the way to the floor. It looks as it has a new clutch in it, haven't had the truck for but maybe a month.What do you guys think, same problem?

 

You can bleed it with a mityvac.

When the slave cylinder gets old sometimes they don't work all that well.

 

I finally had the wife push the pedal for me, and damn, it moved the firewall almost 1/2 inch, no wonder it wouldn't fully disengage!!! It already had a new master and slave, but apparently when they changed the master, didn't notice the firewall trouble, or didn't care.

 

Well, I went to the local ford dealer today, and he was surprised that they still offered the repair kit for the master problem. Has 2 kits, actuall, the $15 standard kit, and the $120 oh s*** kit. Have it either tomorrow or Friday.