Front Tank Does not Register
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 99
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From: florida
Front Tank Does not Register
I have A 1991 Ford F-150 and I have the dual tanks. My back tank and front tank is operationing properly except that the front tank isnot registering on the guage. the Back tank is registering fine. I am leaning towards the float in the front tank. Is ther anyway that i can verify? Also I have been filling both tanks up and have been running the front tank dry and just switching over to the back tank. Am I gooing to hurt the front tank any by doing this or should i not run the front tank at all until i get the guage problem resolved?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 2
From: WA
It's most likely just the sending unit, I have the same problem in my front tank. I just don't bother to do anything about it because I have my rear tank that registers, and I really don't feel like dropping the tank.
It's fine to run it, you should probably just estimate how much gas you have left so you're not getting all the sediment from the bottom of your tank.
It's fine to run it, you should probably just estimate how much gas you have left so you're not getting all the sediment from the bottom of your tank.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I replaced both fuel pumps on my truck, and the float in the front tank had a hole worn in it from the ring that holds it to the sending unit. I couldn't find a replacement, so I just buttoned it back up. I do exactly what you do - fill both tanks, and run the front one dry. Then switch to the back so I know how much gas I have left. Hasn't broken anything yet.
I've heard that you can damage the fuel pump this way or cause the injectors to lose their prime. Neither has happened yet.
I've heard that you can damage the fuel pump this way or cause the injectors to lose their prime. Neither has happened yet.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: florida
andym
Thanks for the info. So that you know i found the ford dealership down here where i am at has the replacement float for the tank in stock and its 48.00 dollars. I just havent dropped the tank due to it seems like a lot of hassle
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Holy crap! $48 for the float????
It's a hollow plastic cylinder about an inch around and two long. It shouldn't cost more than 25 cents.
You must be talking about the whole sending unit.
It's a hollow plastic cylinder about an inch around and two long. It shouldn't cost more than 25 cents.
You must be talking about the whole sending unit.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: florida
Andym
I talked to the guy at the parts department at the ford dealership and he told me that the sending unit is seperate meaning the pump and the float are together but can be replaced seperately. He told me that i could replace the float only if I wanted to and that it was 48.oo dollars. I dont know as to what the unit will be
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
The pump and the float don't come together, because the pump is $150 at Autozone. Probably more at the Ford dealer. So $48 doesn't buy you a pump. 
When you pull it out of the tank, the pump and sending unit are all one piece. The sending unit (with the float attached) is screwed to the pump. I can see the sending unit coming with the float costing $48. Neither the pump for the float by itself could possibly be $48.
Unless the government is buying it, then the float could be $48. And $200 for a hammer, and $500 for a toilet seat...
When you pull it out of the tank, the pump and sending unit are all one piece. The sending unit (with the float attached) is screwed to the pump. I can see the sending unit coming with the float costing $48. Neither the pump for the float by itself could possibly be $48.
Unless the government is buying it, then the float could be $48. And $200 for a hammer, and $500 for a toilet seat...
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From: florida
AndyM
I Imagine that that would be the case then. It must be that the float comes with the sending unit minus the pump. Some one told me that it is easier to take the bed off to get to the tank then it is to drop the tank to get to the sending unit. what do you think?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Well... it depends. Since you live in Florida, it would probably be easier to take the bed off. I say that because the bolts that hold the bed on can get really rusty. If they're really bad, it's probably a toss up.
When I did mine, I did both fuel pumps at the same time. I unbolted everything and disconnected the fuel tank necks and wiring, and had a buddy help me with the cap and bed. It was maybe an hour to get everything off. Access to the tanks is a piece of cake at that point.
The whole thing took maybe three hours.
But, IMO, it's a lot of work to get in there just to replace a sending unit, especially when the other one works fine.
When I did mine, we replaced both fuel pumps. The rear one was shot, and with the truck being so old, I decided to go ahead and do the front anyway just because it was opened up. I wouldn't bother with it at all unless you're going to replace the whole schmeer.
When I did mine, I did both fuel pumps at the same time. I unbolted everything and disconnected the fuel tank necks and wiring, and had a buddy help me with the cap and bed. It was maybe an hour to get everything off. Access to the tanks is a piece of cake at that point.
The whole thing took maybe three hours.
But, IMO, it's a lot of work to get in there just to replace a sending unit, especially when the other one works fine.
When I did mine, we replaced both fuel pumps. The rear one was shot, and with the truck being so old, I decided to go ahead and do the front anyway just because it was opened up. I wouldn't bother with it at all unless you're going to replace the whole schmeer.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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When you take the bed off, or if you don't, just cut a hole in the bed to access the top of the tanks. Unless of course you want to keep the bed intact.
Dropping the tank is possible, just run it dry before hand. Makes it a heck of a lot lighter.
I am just stating the obvious, but sometimes it is easy to forget and just fill up the tank before teh weekend (or day) your doing this job....
Dropping the tank is possible, just run it dry before hand. Makes it a heck of a lot lighter.
I am just stating the obvious, but sometimes it is easy to forget and just fill up the tank before teh weekend (or day) your doing this job....
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 62
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I believe that the front tank and gauge operate just as if you had a single tank. When you switch to the back tank is when the circuit cuts in the rear tank and tells the gauge to use that reading. So, if your front tank does not register on the gauge I would tryu to test the in-cab changeover switch first before dropping any tanks.
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