'89 2.3 Ranger not staying warm, few other problems/questions.
#16
Ummh, when you replaced the stats did you make sure that the rubber O-ring was in the housing before putting the stat in? I had to change stat housings, and went to transfer the stat, it kinda flopped around in the new housing.. Duh, I found that rubber ring in the old one. The stat didn't seem to be able to block coolant flow as loose as it was.
Cardboard will help keep the air from passing past the rad, and the engine block, sure, but the coolant should flow just thru the engine & heater core if the stat is closed.. and works. Seems to me there is no way to keep a 4-banger cool with just the heater core, but what do I know?
Just a few thoughts..
tom
Cardboard will help keep the air from passing past the rad, and the engine block, sure, but the coolant should flow just thru the engine & heater core if the stat is closed.. and works. Seems to me there is no way to keep a 4-banger cool with just the heater core, but what do I know?
Just a few thoughts..
tom
#17
Yup - I made sure that the O ring was in place and seated. Frankly, I'm stumped. I've pretty much replaced most of the cooling system, and have had professionals look at it too. I've just resigned myself to the cardboard trick.
I think you're right about the heater core - normally that would not suffice to cool the engine. The big "but" there is normal. The engine runs so cold to start with that using the heat and fan makes a big difference. I can actually watch the temp gauge move lower if I crank the heat to de-frost the window.
I think you're right about the heater core - normally that would not suffice to cool the engine. The big "but" there is normal. The engine runs so cold to start with that using the heat and fan makes a big difference. I can actually watch the temp gauge move lower if I crank the heat to de-frost the window.
#18
My truck has an eletric fan that turns on at 210-220 and cardboard in front of the radiator, i tryed 2 stock thermo stats that didnt help so i made a custom thermostat housing to fit a 205 degree chevy small block thermostat and it helped warm up alittle quick but not much. i think that is the oddest thing, i can disconect the fan and let the truck run with no heat on and it would over heat (checked with thermo gun) and jut put the heater on low and it will cool it right down to just above the c in not that long at all
#21
Well guys, I pretty much found and fixed my problem!
I put cardboard on the front, and the heater is working VERY well, and the temp gauge is going to the half way point. The truck also seems to run quite a bit better also!
I only drove it about 20 miles, so I'm not sure if this is a permenant fix, but it sure seems to be working so far!
I put cardboard on the front, and the heater is working VERY well, and the temp gauge is going to the half way point. The truck also seems to run quite a bit better also!
I only drove it about 20 miles, so I'm not sure if this is a permenant fix, but it sure seems to be working so far!
#22
ok so you guys are looking for higher temps to get better gas mileage right. My truck only heats to about the 1/4 mark to but I thought it was a good thing b/c it saves the engine life but maybe im wrong. Does it not really make a diffrence on engine life. Does the engine temp change the gas mileage that much.
#23
i have a 88 ranger with 2.3 4 cyl i have the same problem no heat . i have also replaced every thing with new ford parts. t stat new housing new rubber ring ,hoses, heater core. hoses. you name it i have replaced it. this has realy pis---d me off. i have ask every one, have posted threads on ranger form, nothing! i cant beleve all 2.3 are like this??? mine has run cool 4/5 years now. if you need cardboard installed why don't ford supply us with a piece???? some one must know a fix. HELP!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!HELP US
#24
prerunner: the factory gauge is more of a guesstimator. It has no degree markings, so they just tell you that the needle should stay in the marked area. 1/4 of the way up may be perfectly normal temp. Have to use a thermometer to be sure, but you want the coolant to be about 195F for best operation. The mileage may suffer up to 20% (ballpark) if the engine doesn't get warmed up, from what I've read.
tom
tom
#26
i have checked the water temp with a lazer temp guage and the water only geats to 155/160 the dash guage only to bottom mark of nornal cold!!! at idle the water temp will go to 110/125 at the core, also a new ford part. there is a small hose that is 'tee' into the 5/8 hose that goes from t stat housing to heater core that hose goes to rear of engine. if i pinch that hose off the temp will go upat the core to aprox 155/160. i dont want to do this for a long time for fear of overheating cyl head and possable damage to head and or block. the big question to me is why if the t stat is a 195 why is the temp down so low?????? it is like an internal leak or something letting coolent slip by. that is why the last time i installed a new ford tstat that i got a new housing seal and stat. what a poor system!!!
#27
Is it possible that you did not get the rubber ring that goes into the t-stat housing before you insert the stat? Been there.... Had to get a new housing, and swapped the stat.. Flopped around... Duh. Looked in the old housing. Viola. Rubber ring.. moved to new housing. Worked like a charm.
The small hose around the rear of the head supplies heat to the intake manifold so the engine will run better when cold.
Best of luck.
tom
The small hose around the rear of the head supplies heat to the intake manifold so the engine will run better when cold.
Best of luck.
tom
#28
I dont know if you guys ever got the under heating figured out but i think i finally did. I took out the 4 banger after it started burning a quart oil ever 100 miles or so and put a built 5.0l 354ci stroker in it. Like magic the engine warms up quick even in -20f temps and blows heat out the heater! no more cardboard.
check it out--> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/330903...er-regular-cab
check it out--> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/330903...er-regular-cab
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