Shuddering/Vibrating, 94AWD
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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fndwl,
A.) I don't know what LS plates are either - never heard of that abbreviation.
B) Did you also change the plug wires when you did the plugs? The plug wires are the critical part of trying to rule out ignition problems as the source of the shuddering. You really need to do this in light of your one excessively eroded plug - this tells me the wires are long overdue for replacement. (Stay with Motorcraft or the premium Bosch - the intense voltage on these systems will quickly eat up lesser quality cables and you will wind up replacing them again within 18 months.)
C.) Good suggestion from wrcware re:transfer case solenoid and easy to check out. If changing the plug wires does not solve the problem I would be more likely to agree with Scot109 re:torque converter problem.
A.) I don't know what LS plates are either - never heard of that abbreviation.
B) Did you also change the plug wires when you did the plugs? The plug wires are the critical part of trying to rule out ignition problems as the source of the shuddering. You really need to do this in light of your one excessively eroded plug - this tells me the wires are long overdue for replacement. (Stay with Motorcraft or the premium Bosch - the intense voltage on these systems will quickly eat up lesser quality cables and you will wind up replacing them again within 18 months.)
C.) Good suggestion from wrcware re:transfer case solenoid and easy to check out. If changing the plug wires does not solve the problem I would be more likely to agree with Scot109 re:torque converter problem.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Jan 13, 2004 at 12:01 PM.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 16
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From: Fairbanks,AK
shudder etc
aero,
thank you for the input. I just got back from testing it with the fuse pulled and it didn't help. The wires are next on my list but I have to make an appt with my wife so I can work on it.
Will keep you posted. (Do you know anything about Ford Explorers?)
thank you for the input. I just got back from testing it with the fuse pulled and it didn't help. The wires are next on my list but I have to make an appt with my wife so I can work on it.
Will keep you posted. (Do you know anything about Ford Explorers?)
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 16
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From: Fairbanks,AK
shudder etc
I was just thinking, It didn't seem that there was much difference by pulling the fuse for the 4wheel drive (in the driving that is). Is it possible that something is burnt to where the clutch won't disengage thereby leaving me in 4 wheel drive all the time even with the fuse pulled? I am going to take it back out on some icy road and see if there is a difference.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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RE: Fuse & E4WD, highly unlikely something would keep the solenoid engaged without you knowing it. For one thing, there would be severe scrubbing on the front wheels when you make a sharp turn into or out of a parking spot. You would feel a pronounced jerky motion as a front tire breaks adhesion in an effort to relieve that torque buildup.
In short, if pulling the fuse did not remedy the situation the transfer case solenoid is not the problem.
In short, if pulling the fuse did not remedy the situation the transfer case solenoid is not the problem.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 43
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I would like to hear more on this subject. I have a 1990 Aerostar that has the exact same problem as FNDWL is having. I mean to the tee. After 40 MPH it starts to shudder. If I accelerate it stops. If I let off the gas it stops. If I tap the brake it stops. And it does seem to get worse after about 60MPH. The plugs and wires were replaced last summer but that does not mean that isn,t the problem. Have yet to locate the MAF sensor.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Joined: Mar 2004
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New plugs and wires made no difference!
The shudder starts at about 45 mph when the tc clutch locks up. It will not shudder under brisk acceleration. It seems to appear when the engine is loaded at low rpm. (2000rpm). For example, if you gently accelerate to 45mph getting into overdrive and achieve tc lock-up then a slight tip-in of additional throttle will start the condition. If you engage the brake light (forcing the tc clutch to disengage) and add throttle more aggressively it will go away. It will also occur on the highway at 65+ when adding throttle to hold or increase speed.
Early on I was absolutely sure this was tc clutch shudder. I changed the tranny fluid 3 times including using Trans Tune and Dr. Tranny friction modifier. A Kennedy transmission shop manager test drove it and said it does not feel like tc clutch chatter. He believes the engine is misfiring under load.
I also have what sounds like a valve train tick for a couple minutes on cold start up.
The shudder starts at about 45 mph when the tc clutch locks up. It will not shudder under brisk acceleration. It seems to appear when the engine is loaded at low rpm. (2000rpm). For example, if you gently accelerate to 45mph getting into overdrive and achieve tc lock-up then a slight tip-in of additional throttle will start the condition. If you engage the brake light (forcing the tc clutch to disengage) and add throttle more aggressively it will go away. It will also occur on the highway at 65+ when adding throttle to hold or increase speed.
Early on I was absolutely sure this was tc clutch shudder. I changed the tranny fluid 3 times including using Trans Tune and Dr. Tranny friction modifier. A Kennedy transmission shop manager test drove it and said it does not feel like tc clutch chatter. He believes the engine is misfiring under load.
I also have what sounds like a valve train tick for a couple minutes on cold start up.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 586
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From: Tottenham Ontario Canada
Although I have not experienced the shudder you mentioned, it sounds like a slipping torque converter clutch to me. If it "went away" for a while after the ball joints were changed, it could be that the improved alignment allowed the van to run with less rolling drag & thus required less power from the engine.
By the way, I think the "LS plates" referred to may be the clutch plates in a limited slip rear axle. Although I think they would only cause trouble while cornering...
Cheers,
Eric
By the way, I think the "LS plates" referred to may be the clutch plates in a limited slip rear axle. Although I think they would only cause trouble while cornering...
Cheers,
Eric
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Concordia, MO
I've got a 93 AWD, and was having the exact same problems. I went through all of the ignition checks replacing everything that could possibly have any effect with no results. I finally replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and that did the trick. No more vibrations.
Good luck!
Good luck!
New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1
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From: Midwest
Shudder
I had this same shudder with a 91 AWD Aerostar. I unhooked the fuse - no difference. I found the AWD computer under the drivers seat, and unhooked it - vibration gone. Instantly. 4X4 feature also gone, instantly.
I hooked it back up, once we got snow - has not vibrated all winter. I'm guessing that without some "road slip", the shudder begins. My wife is guessing that the problem is heat related.
I will unhook again this month, as winter is almost over. Maybe I'll put a toggle switch to this AWD computer to have "on the fly" 4x4.
I hooked it back up, once we got snow - has not vibrated all winter. I'm guessing that without some "road slip", the shudder begins. My wife is guessing that the problem is heat related.
I will unhook again this month, as winter is almost over. Maybe I'll put a toggle switch to this AWD computer to have "on the fly" 4x4.
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
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my 90 4x2 shudders when it goes in to lockup at 45mph. if i shift from (o)verdrive into (d)rive , it stops. the tranny was rebuilt about 20000 miles ago with a new tc. is there a wire i can disconnect to keep it from going into lockup while still being in overdrive?