A dropped solid axle question
Is the front axle for the '57 - '60 the same as previous years? I mean is a '56 axle the same as '57? How long was the axle on the '57 - '60 used before those years?
I found a place called Cen-Penn Speed Shop that makes dropped axles for the F100s, but shows '53 - '56. I think that's just the popular years that they market for, but the axles look exactly like mine. The spring perches, etc. Will they interchange?
If so, I'm goign to forget about the reversed eye monos, and go w/a dropped front axle. Let me know!
The 56 front axle is the same EXCEPT for the fact that the orignal 57-60 axle has a 1" drop compared to the 56. So, if you bought a 3" drop for a 56 this would only give you a 2" drop on a 57-60. There was an article done on this in the may 1980 hot rod magazine.
Kevin Bigwin56f100

Hey BigWin - do you have a copy of that article? I'd be interested in seeing it.
That company says that a 4" drop is coming soon, so I'll wait it out. That seems like a more stable way of doing it...the dropped axle. I just got my new (original) wheels on Daisy today, and that gave me a 1" drop from where she was.
Would rear mono reversed eyes be as troublesome as the front? I am assuming it wouldn't be, since there's nothing back there. Besides, I don't see my truck hauling anything heavier than chairs, a cooler, and a a bucket-full-o-detailing stuff in the future.
I don't remember seeing anything much on getting the rear end down, besides moving the axle over the springs. I think that would give TOO MUCH of a drop! I remember someone mocking up higher spring perches on their frame recently to get it down some. Maybe that, along with a few leaves removed from the springs would be enough.....I'm only looking to get down 3 - 4" in the front, and 3 - 4" rear.
Here's some info from an old post of mine that will get the thought juices going relative to lowering the rear end -
"Part 2: Methods for lowering ride of 53-56 F100s;
In my particular case (a 1954 F100) the bottom edge of the extreme rear end of the frame is 17” from the ground. The bottom edge of the running board braces are 13-13 ½” off the ground. Additionally, the present distance from the top of the rear end housing to the bottom of the frame directly above the housing 8 ½” with the rubber stop reducing that by 2” to 6 ½” of upward suspension travel (not including crush on the rubber stop). The axle housing is mounted below the springs. 8 leaves with a total thickness of 2 ½” and the spring perch height is aprox. 1 “.
Here are various avenues for lowering the rear suspension that I have found;
1. Remove every second leaf from the rear springs (removing a total of 3 leaves). According to Mid-Fifty, keep #1,3,5,7and the main leaf. In theory this will lower the rear end approx. 0.31 “. In reality it might yield a fraction more as it will soften the suspension. Cost is near zero.
This should not alter the pinion angle. DROP = 0.31 - 0.50 inches
2. Utilize 2” lowering shackles on the rear mounting end of the rear springs. It is recommended that this be combined with moving the front spring shackle up approx. 1 ½” (necessitates drilling new mounting holes in the frame). This latter step will help to avoid altering the pinion angle. The shackles run approx. $90.00 USD a pair circa 2002.
This may result in the upper edge of the rear shackle coming into conflict with the bottom of the bed floor & may impact pinion angle.
DROP = 1 ½ - 2 inches
3. Combine alternatives # 1 & 2 above for approx. 2 to 2.5 “ drop .
4. Utilize mono-leaf rear springs. Available from several sources including John’s F-Fun Hundreds & Vintage Ford . This should yield a drop of 2 – 3”. These run approx. $350.00 USD a pair circa 2003. Mono leaf springs are available with regular eyes for 2-3 inches of drop and reversed eyes for an additional 1 & ½ inch or aprox. 3.5 to 5.0 inches total.
If using the reversed eye mono-leaves, it is recommended you flip the front shackle mount upside down to avoid the spring binding on the shackle mount.
DROP = 2-3 inches with regular eyes.
DROP = 3.5 to 5.0 inches with reversed eye monos.
All methodologies above keep the axle below the spring assy.
5. Another alternative is to mount the differential housing on top of the rear springs rather than it’s stock location under the springs. Cost is a bit of welding to move the spring perches from the top of the axle housing to the bottom.
DROP = 4 – 4.5 inches
6. Combining #5 above with reversed eye main leaves would provide further drop but now you’re getting into the area of ground scrapping.
DROP = aprox. 6 inches
I am led to believe that a minimum of 3” travel is required to provide safe and comfortable handling in everyday driving situations. Any of the above combinations that reduce the suspension travel (distance between bottom of frame above the differential and the highest part of the differential/springs immediately below the frame) to 3” or less should be accompanied with C-sectioning the frame;
The March 2002 issue of StreetRodder has an article involving No-Limits Eng. doing it in one manner. Apparently they also offer a kit. Don’t know the price or whether it bears any resemblance to the manner used in the magazine article. Hopefully not…..requires extensive welding.
RB’s Obsolete Auto also offer a “kit” that can be adapted to the frame with some welding and cutting. Doesn’t say in their catalog, but it looks like it would give back about 1 ½” of travel. Cost is approx. $110.00 USD . RB’s alternative is the more traditional approach and looks good (cosmetically).
Looking at a picture of either alternative will quickly reveal that C sections aren’t rocket science. It wouldn’t be that difficult to make your own. But unless you have easy/free access to steel, it would be hard to beat RB’s price. "
Regards,
This should not alter the pinion angle. DROP = 0.31 - 0.50 inches
I know I've said this before RMF but 1/3 inch is way conservative. An inch or better is closer to reality IMO. Loss of three leaves reduces the spring rate quite measurably. All I have done to my truck is this and raise the front mount. I am inches below stock before I even install my new No Limit drop shackles.
Or am I? BigWin, can we clear this up? We need your tire diameter and height from the bottom of the frame to the floor. Can you measure ol' Stocky at your convenience?
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Hey Kev-O! I'm still coming home after this next semester...my wife's at home now, but I don't want to make her come up and get that "item" from you...what with her driving all over visiting all the "kinfolk" already. Also, go ahead and email that article to my hotmail email. I keep meaning to get rid of Yahoo! email. That's the one I send all the junk to, and your correspondance (or anyone's on here, for that matter) isn't junk!
Thanks for the info Fergie! I printed this out so I can sit home and ponder it this evening, watching yet ANOTHER John Wayne movie. Faith and our son are back home visiting, so I'm stuck out here alone on the prairie and can't sleep!
I'm going to try the leaf removal method too. I'll be out back on the ol' girl soon.
Actually she's developed a leaky seal on the rear end. That's not bad tho'. I've been using Daisy as my daily driver, and this is the first real prob I've had with her. My wife's car has basically gone to hell in a handcart since we've been out here, and it's a '95!- Shane






