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Timing woes solved (I think)

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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:35 PM
  #16  
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4k is isn't wot when i'm checking it but yeah there is no advance at wot. I got to keep myself from going out there and turning it up. I need to drive slow like a grandpa grunt but can't stand it. i wish i had the 390 in a car. Cause my 5400 lb truck doesn't cut it for me. Its faster than my taurus in the quarter mile. (for speed anyway)
 
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:38 PM
  #17  
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I think it was may dad who said "could you imagine if this engine was in a car" the first time I took him for a ride. Weight makes so much of a difference.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:44 PM
  #18  
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the 390 in a old stang witha four speed would be awesome. the best thing i found for power was running 92 octance or tad higher. I had my tank full one night and it mad more power than the 4bbl upgrade. my truck went from like nothing to posi burnouts. I have 31 10.5 too. i figure i am only putting 160 to 170 horsepower to the ground.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 02:53 PM
  #19  
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I just checked my timing agian. Yesterday I was mistaking "TC" for "10". This means according to the light I am at a 2 degrees initial. A smart man would take the timing tape setting on the top of his microwave and stick it to the damper. I can stand on it from an idle and it revs hard with no popping through the carb. It also idles with very little lope to it. I moved the conector on the wire to make sure it wasn't getting juice inducted from another wire and nothing changed. Looks like its tim to try the extra battery thing tomorrow. There is no way I have that much responsiveness at 0 degrees. I'm going to also borrow another light and check it that way. This is killing me.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 04:00 PM
  #20  
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Yea, try that. It worked for me. If all else fails just go back to the old school...time it by vacuum gauge with the advance a little hot and then back it off till the pinging stops under load. I only use my TL as a point of refrence but don't pay it too much heed...never even kept one in my tool box untill a couple of years ago. Ear and vacuum gauge were all I ever needed. I do think using an isolated battery will take care of it though.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:39 PM
  #21  
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Your right Seth, sometimes the fancy tools aren't as dependable as your own ears and experience. I was beginning to think my own experience sucked when I was looking at the other light. Now I know something is wrong and its not my brain. <-- This is a very rare occourence.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:46 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by Ratsmoker
Now I know something is wrong and its not my brain.
Well Sean, isn't the verdict still out though?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:50 PM
  #23  
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Yeah, I guess it is.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #24  
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Funny you should mention it. I bought one at Autozone because I wanted a spare in my toolbox for the truck and ended up returning it because it did not work correctly. I went back using my 10+ year old Sears timing light in the truck toolbox.

Kind of like when I was making some custom cedar siding for my old house. So, I bought two squares from Home Depot, while there for some SS nails, to use on the scaffolding because my roofer's square was too big.

I used them to cut the boards on the ground and on the scaffolding. As I start to nail the boards up, nothing matched, because as I started to butt them up. I saw the cuts were not 90 degrees. I thought my saw blade was crooked. Then I measued both Home Depot squares against my older square and a straight edge. Both the aluminum and orange plastic were off my many degrees! At what cedar cost per foot, because I had to resqaure both ends of the boards, it was a very expensive purchase for cheap junk!
 

Last edited by rebocardo; Jan 8, 2004 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 12:38 AM
  #25  
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Funny indeed you mention that...the old sears timing lights are one of the few ones that are supposed to be able to work accuratly with the high output ignitions. Who knew!?

Well, I did...but then I'm a freak for useless trivia
 
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