hey arizona - what's the story on your truck?

 

Well as it sits now I installed the Bilstein 5100's in the front and rear - the ride is absolutely sweet even with my low-tech Rancho 4-inch lift. All the difference in the world with a decent pair of shocks, the RS5000 and 9000's are junk IMHO.

As to the braking issue, I'm still sorting out the pull left under braking. The dealer I took it to ended up tightening supsension bolts, etc. to sort out a straight line pull I didn't know I had (curious #1) and it still pulled. They then went into the brakes, swapped pads side/side, but all of a sudden stopped work when they saw my spiff ART rotors - some BS about replacing them with OEM parts before further investigation WOULD be done, with no exact explanation other than they were not OEM.

I asked about the TSB on brake pressure testing for caliper/MC problems, but was advised it would be a $200 charge for the test. I got pissed and took my truck back after they looked it over for a week. I explained my consternation in the following manner:

1.) Nobody referenced the TSB I spoke about, and I had performed the first 5 items on the list before I bought it in: tires (new) balanced and rotated, straight line road test (fine IMHO), inspect rotors and pads (OK), alignment (done)

2.) The service to the front suspension did not address the problem I reported specifically, but it does ride better and no clunks or rattles over potholes - no argument, money well spent.

3.) I want a diagnosis of the problem, stopping at non-OEM parts is a lame **s service writer trying to sell me parts unless you can explain a specific defect or problem with those parts. This is not warranty work, so find the friggin problem.

4.) I am peeved to be asked to pony up $500 for front rotors and pads, then another $200 for a pressure test to diagnose a hydraulic problem which might turn out to be a caliper (my guess) or even a master cylinder. This adds several hundred dollars to a bill and becomes "replace everything until we correct the problem" not "your problem is...." which is what I expect from a service department at the dealer or Sears for that matter.

I even specifically asked if they would reimburse me for the OEM parts if that didn't correct the problem - reply "we'll work with you on that" Well I see the dollar signs coming and am looking for a good brake shop equipped with the experience and the tools to do the job right the first time.

In a nutshell, I'm no better off than 3 weeks ago. I'm going to start with a simple bleeding of the brakes - my wife is good at pushing the pedal. Then find the best brake guy in town to sort it all out. Sorry for all the wind, but I"m a bit punchy right now

 

sorry to hear your having to deal with this. Maybe a call to your State Atty Gen Lemon Law division might shed some light on the process. There's no reason for you to have to pay out the a** for safety issues. I don't know how thesse things work on trucks as old as yours though. maybe not much can be done now cuz the ddealer will just keep blaiming your non OEM parts for problems.

 

The lemon law isn't my recourse after 3 years and 65,000 miles. Mine is simply a matter of figuring out what the problem REALLY is and getting someone qualified to help me out since I've gone as far as reasonably possible on my own, without success.

I keep telling myself it has to be something real simple since nothing in the brake system has been apart other, than the pad/rotor swap. I'm leaning to a sticky right caliper, but need to do a bit of investigation - don't want to pre-dispose a solution without finding the true problem.

Good to hear you're making out OK on your end with the buyback, you didn't miss anything this weekend except some 75 degree days. Oh, that's right, you guys were getting bombed by something called a blizzard (LOL)...

Shiny side up, pedal to the metal.... OUT