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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Heater/Defroster upgrades

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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #1  
gdavis2265's Avatar
gdavis2265
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Heater/Defroster upgrades

Hey guys,
How can we make the heater/defroster work better in these old trucks?
Mine gets fairly warm, but dosen't flow much air. Can you buy a newer motor that spins at a higher RPM?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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From: Central Kali
I know what you mean. Another motor would probably help if you could find one that would fit ok.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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On most Fords, doing a good cleaning of the air passage ways is the best investment, with checking the cables and doors to make sure they seal correctly. After that, after market units that come with a more powerful fan are the only way to go.

A stock motor is pretty powerful, I doubt you could get better, the problem is where it is located and the shape of the passages. Bosch makes probably the best replacement motor. Ideally, a big space before the motor and narrow straight tubes after would give the most forced air.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 04:48 AM
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What about increasing the voltage to the motor? Your motor wouldn't last as long and you'd have to do a little wiring, but it would turn a little faster.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 12:52 AM
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how would you get more than 12 volts in a 12 volt system?

Also what is the part number for the bosch fan? I cant find a part number for a replacement that anyone stocks
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 01:14 AM
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The alternator produces 14 volts. You could run a nice fat wire from the alternator to the fan motor and use a relay to switch it. Thats a 2 volt gain right there. Jacobs sells a kit for doing this to your headlights to make them brighter. The other option is to use a transformer or a power inverter. How many volts you can get from this is up to you. 30 bucks can get you 110 volts out of your cigarette lighter. As I recall there are units available for stepping 12 volt to 16. I don't remember who makes them though.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 07:46 AM
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I've always believed the whole system was already running at the alternator's output, except for the ignition. Got my curiosity up now, I'll have to check it later when it warms up. Only 38° this morning. Brr. (He says, smirking.)

If the fins on any squirrel cage fan are dirty that will decrease the fan's output. Directly proportionally, more dirt less output. Almost any amount makes a difference. They need to be clean, or the very next thing to it, for best performance. Look at the little fan that is in your bathroom sometime. You may find all it's doing mostly is making noise.

And be sure the heater core is clean. If the fins have a layer of grime on them it will greatly reduce it's ability to transfer heat. If it's real dirty it will be hard for much air to even get through it.

Beyond that make sure the seals on your flaps in the heater box are in place and working. I'll bet they're not. And seal up any other leaks you find anywhere on the system.

Speaking of leaks if your door, window, and floorboard/firewall seals are shot it's going to be hard to heat the cab in any case. Unless you've changed them I'll make another bet they aren't doing their job anymore. Amounts to some awfully high winds right outside the cab and any little holes can let in or out quite a lot of air.

There's been a bunch of heater cores for sale on eBay lately, all kinds of different sizes. I've wondered about putting in one that is a little bigger or trying to squeeze in a second one.
 

Last edited by rmt; Jan 8, 2004 at 07:49 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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If I understand the way the heating system works correctly, it is drawing air through the passenger wall of the cab from the outdoors. Why not close that off somehow and open the floor vent on the passenger side so you're just reheating the cab air rather than cold outside air? This thread just reminded me of that so now I'm headed out to look into it myself...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 01:33 AM
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sounds like a good idea to me, i know mine draws from outside, takes forever for it to get warm on these cold iowa mornings
 
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 07:46 AM
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Well Guys.. I have to agree with rmt.... A few years back on my F250... When was the last time you did a good Back Flush to your cooling system.... I Flushed the system out REAL good..And that made one hell of a differance. then I took out the heater core..and took it to the Radiator shop and had them Clean and flush it....Now the dam thing will run you out of the cab!! Good Luck!! Russ
 
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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Well I tried the idea of taking the air from in the cab and it made the windows fog worse, too moist I guess. I gotta get to the junkyard and start fabbing up a new system before next winter. The heater runs steady in my old girl and still can't keep the windows clear. -15 F here right now That heater is gettin it!!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 08:42 AM
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The problem I have is that at highway speeds the bypass hose flows so much coolant that the temperature guage drops off scale. When I am driving around town I have good heat. This morning wore my insulated coveralls on the way to work to keep from turing into a popcicle. (-10 here in Flagstaff, AZ)
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 08:21 PM
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From: nevada
warmer thermo

You might see what you have for a thermostat in that upper rad hose. We always used to put a hotter one in for those cold WI winters. Hotter water makes hotter air.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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I think I have a 195 in my truck. What is the hottest one you can get?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 10:44 PM
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From: iowa
i just put a 195 in mine, i think thats as hot as you want to get, my heater still sucks and everything is new including the heater core, i havent figured out how to make it blow hotter yet wish i could those -0 days are frezzeing me
 
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