Gas Tank
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,775
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From: Conway Arkansas
Gas Tank
Im redoing my wiring, I got everything done except the gas tank
Whats involved in getting the guage to work?
Theres 1 or 2 wires coming from the tank...
Is it a ground, and the other is a switched source or what?
Whats involved in getting the guage to work?
Theres 1 or 2 wires coming from the tank...
Is it a ground, and the other is a switched source or what?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Wilmington NC
According to my wiring diagram for my 1964 (and I would guess that your 1966 is similar...but it is just a guess) From the fuel tank sending unit, there are two wires, one short one which is grounded, and an orange one which goes (through 3 different inline disconnects) to eventually get to the passenger side of the fuel gauge. From the driver's side of the fuel gauge, a black-green wire is connected to the Constant Voltage Unit (which is the source of power for the circuit).
Hope it is the same and thus, hope it helps.
Hope it is the same and thus, hope it helps.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 2
From: Conway Arkansas
Well actually my dash is from a 64 
hehe
Im not using any of the stock gauges but gas
so I can run a constant power to the drivers side of fuel tank
and the other side put the orange wire from the tank?
I want the guage to come on/off with a key.
so Im gonna run a switched wire to the power side if thats possible
heheIm not using any of the stock gauges but gas
so I can run a constant power to the drivers side of fuel tank
and the other side put the orange wire from the tank?
I want the guage to come on/off with a key.
so Im gonna run a switched wire to the power side if thats possible
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
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From: Colville, Washington
Make sure with the stock gauge that you use the instument cluster voltage regulator in-line with the switched power source for the fuel gauge. I think without it the gauge will either self-destruct or not read properly, can't remember which, but niether is good! I remember a thread from awhile ago that described the icvr in detail.Putt
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Wilmington NC
I don't have a clue. I'm just reading a wiring diagram, but according to Fordboy Pete, who I would trust, it sounds like the fuel gauge probably only runs on around 9 volts. Check out this recent post if I manage to post it here correctly. I would think you would need to install a Constant Voltage Unit to cut that voltage down to keep from prematurely killing the gauge with that 12 volts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...52B%25252Bunit
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...52B%25252Bunit
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Conway Arkansas
Is that the block with 2 "spade" connectors connected to it?
I have the dash in my lap as we talk
I have the dash in my lap as we talk
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Wilmington NC
Fordboy Pete's description through the wonder of cut and paste:
CVR is a small, silver, contrivance, about 3/4 inch Long X 3/8"H X 1/4" to 5/16"W, fastens on back of instrmnt cluster. Has 2 nutted, poles, perhaps 5/16" or 3/8" nuts. Input (12V Source) goes on 1 of poles & Output Voltage (to guage) goes on other. Function of CVR is stabilize current flow & stop any fluctuation by reducing output volatge/amps. Most CVRs put out 9V & reduced Amps.
CVR is a small, silver, contrivance, about 3/4 inch Long X 3/8"H X 1/4" to 5/16"W, fastens on back of instrmnt cluster. Has 2 nutted, poles, perhaps 5/16" or 3/8" nuts. Input (12V Source) goes on 1 of poles & Output Voltage (to guage) goes on other. Function of CVR is stabilize current flow & stop any fluctuation by reducing output volatge/amps. Most CVRs put out 9V & reduced Amps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
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From: Colville, Washington
They are still available at parts stores with "real" parts people that can read a catalog, it ain't in the computer look-up!! It is possible that you have the right item, but from a different year- try inputting 12v and check the output.
Putt
Putt
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Wilmington NC
Click on my gallery at the "helpful photos" Look at the one that shows the back of the speedometer. It is not the best photo, but what you are looking for, is the little boxy thing directly under the speedometer. You might then take a peek under your speedometer and see if you still have one hiding there, or if there is still one lying around where you discarded that old speedometer if you are not using the original one out of the dash.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Wilmington NC
Like I said, you can take a look at that photo if you wish. I can take a better one if you think it will help, that photo was actually to show someone something else. But if I was you I would do one of two things, either apply 12 volts to one side and measure the output like Putt suggested to see if it was around 9 volts and if so, use it, or if not, buy one at a parts house. Either way, you got it fixed.