I have a problem with my driver side front end and don't know where it's coming from. I'll be specific as possible; when I drive over small bumps on the road, the left front end seems to act like it has no shock, rattling like a bottoming-out shock. When I brake hard at a slower speed like 20 mph, I hear a clunk at the same location. I replaced both front shocks with AIS Edelbrocks fitted for my stock application, thinking this would do the job. Nope. Please help! I'm annoyed with this, but most of all I want to be safe...
Thanks in advance
RedCrewCab4x4

 

Are all the ball joints good? Everything tight(sway bar, U-bolts, Pitman arm,ect.). Wheels bearing good? Wheels tight? Only things I can come up with.

 

You might start with a good alignment shop and have them take a look at the wheel bearings, I believe the early '99 had the composite wheel bearing/hub assy like mine. It failed after 50K miles and gave similar symptoms you have - check the wheel visually and see if you have noticeable slant in at the top on level ground, if so it's a good bet it's the bearings or the ball joints - your valiant alignment wizard should be able to sort it out lickety split...

 

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll have the ball joints inspected and replaced if needed. Is this a job you can you yourself, and what tools would I need? I have good mechanical skills as long as good instructions are provided... would love to save a buck and learn something.
RedCrewCab4x4

 

Sure you can do it yourself.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/contents...20Installation

Check the large rubber insulator on the drivers side sway bar. They wear and make an awful racket.

 

The reason I mention the hub assy is it is notorious for failure, especially on the left (driver's) side. Unfortunately with all of the close tolerances and heft of the front suspension components you have to do some disassembly to verify the problem.

Remove the wheel, caliper (2X 21mm (?) bolts) and rotor. With just the hub there should be NO play up or down when you try to move the end of the axle (grab the locking hub) If it moves, the bearing is bad - on my 2001 this is a sealed unit including the hub, wheel studs and bearing. it is a dealer only part and is not rebuildable, expect to lay out $350 or so for a replacement.

While you're that far you can inspect the ball joints and look at the assembly. I replaced mine in the driveway, remove/replace the axle seals - they have to come out in order to pull the axle, which has to come out in order to remove the steering knuckle. Also the lower ball joint nut is huge (1-5/16?), but you can get the right wrench at Sears for ~$30.

It is fairly straight forward with modest mechanical skills and the right tools, you might be able to get them on loan from Autozone or Checker. You will have to take the joints and steering knuckle to a machine shop to get them pressed in - they will not go willingly.

Hope this helps, did mine 6 mo. ago, so it is still sort of fresh in my mind.

 

Well gents, looks like the New Year brings me many hours of grease and scraped knuckles. I appreciate all of your advise, it will come in very handy. Wishing you all a Happy and Healthy New Year

Jerome M.
GySgt USMC (Semper Fi)
aka RedCrewCab4x4

 

Red Crew,
I had a loud thumping when breaking that seemed to be coming from the driver's side front. Check your tires. Mine showed signs of cambering on the inside, and it was because the upper ball joints needed to be replaced. Once that was done, no more clunking.