Leaking Wheel Seal ? Help
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Buffalo Ny
Leaking Wheel Seal ? Help
Ok.. I walk outside this morning and there is an oil puddle by my drivers side rear wheel on my 87 reg cab 4x4. It's gear oil.. So my thought is the wheel seal? I am gonna tear it apart in a few minutes my question is how do I remove the wheel seal? Do I need a special tool? And why did it just blow while sitting in the driveway? If I replace one should I replace both? Any help is appriciated.
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks,
Kevin
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Buffalo Ny
No I'm sure it's the wheel seal. I pulled the wheel off and it was full of gear oil. I just drained the rear and am gonna pull the axel. I'm seein parts of this truck now I never wanted to see..lol
Kevin
Kevin
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Junior User
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From: Buffalo Ny
Well that is done... I must say a little time consuming but easy to do. I think if I had known what I needed to do before I started it would have been a lot quicker and easier. But I will also say it was a pain for a $2 part. I did learn something good in it all. I bought the truck a few months ago an the guy said he did lots of upgrades.. But he didn't mention the rearlocker I found when I pulled the differential cover 
Kevin
Kevin
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Considering the depth of the repair you are doing, I have a couple of comments: First, I have seen this before - though not on my Rangers.
What usually causes a wheel seal to go is worn bearings allowing some axle movement, and it has been my experience that when one goes - the other isn't often far behind. You will need to replace the bearing, seals and axle retention hardware for the affected side - as a minimum . . . I would recommend that you do this on both sides.
While you are in there, flush and look for metallic debris in the housing. Insure that you completely clean and inspect all brake parts as well (as a minimum I would recommend new shoes all around - they tend to soak up oils and are probably saturated.)
Personally, Since I'm there anyway, I'd simply do a good brake rebuild and look for deterioration on the brake selenoids. If there is someone to help you, I would (after reassembly but before you reinstall the wheels) have someone gently step on the brake pedal and watch the brake operation.
What usually causes a wheel seal to go is worn bearings allowing some axle movement, and it has been my experience that when one goes - the other isn't often far behind. You will need to replace the bearing, seals and axle retention hardware for the affected side - as a minimum . . . I would recommend that you do this on both sides.
While you are in there, flush and look for metallic debris in the housing. Insure that you completely clean and inspect all brake parts as well (as a minimum I would recommend new shoes all around - they tend to soak up oils and are probably saturated.)
Personally, Since I'm there anyway, I'd simply do a good brake rebuild and look for deterioration on the brake selenoids. If there is someone to help you, I would (after reassembly but before you reinstall the wheels) have someone gently step on the brake pedal and watch the brake operation.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Buffalo Ny
Hey Ray,
I did the seal change earlier.. I also replaced the bearing on that side. Everything was clean. You could see where the old seal had deteriated, it was nasty. As far as brakes.. It has had every piece of the brake system replaced since I got it except the master cylinder. It had blown lines when I got it, so we replaced the cylanders and all. The only thing I know of that is still wrong with the truck which I'm gonna change tonight is the rear ujoint it has some play. I noticed that the other day it was clicking but had not changed it yet. The whole rear end was clean.. Gears look like new no wear. No metal in the drain pan.
Kevin
I did the seal change earlier.. I also replaced the bearing on that side. Everything was clean. You could see where the old seal had deteriated, it was nasty. As far as brakes.. It has had every piece of the brake system replaced since I got it except the master cylinder. It had blown lines when I got it, so we replaced the cylanders and all. The only thing I know of that is still wrong with the truck which I'm gonna change tonight is the rear ujoint it has some play. I noticed that the other day it was clicking but had not changed it yet. The whole rear end was clean.. Gears look like new no wear. No metal in the drain pan.
Kevin
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Upstate NY
Like Ray A says, many times a leaking seal results from a bad bearing. Having said that, I had to replace a seal in my '86 ranger and the bearing was fine. On the other hand, my '88 BII had a leaking seal, a bad bearing and a a scored axle. I never liked the idea of using the axle as the inner race for a bearing, but it apparently saves Ford money when building the vehicle. Napa sells an offset bearing that places the rollers on a new, unused portion of the axle. I discovered this when I pulled the axle. The prior owner had installed the "odd" bearing and seal incorrectly. I reinstalled the bearing and put in a new seal. This seems to work but I don't think it will last as long as the original. Later, I had to replace the seal on the other side of the BII and that axle was so badly scored, I discarded it and used a better one from a "junker" parts vehicle I have. Seems like a potential "weak spot" in the early Ranger/BIIs?!
