Wood Bed
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 432
Likes: 1
From: West London, England
Wood Bed
Hi
I've been taking a long look at the bed on my 54 and have decided it's past saving
Getting a new bed shipped from the USA to the UK will be too expensive so I am considering my options
1. Get a new bed fabricated from scratch
2. Build one from wood
I am not talking about a flatbed but a complete wooden bed that matches as close as possible the original. I plan to use tongue and groove oak floorboards.
I have seen a picture of something similar somewhere, I thought it was in a gallery on this site but cant find it. Dose anyone have any pic's ?
What do you guys think ?
Stephen
I've been taking a long look at the bed on my 54 and have decided it's past saving
Getting a new bed shipped from the USA to the UK will be too expensive so I am considering my options
1. Get a new bed fabricated from scratch
2. Build one from wood
I am not talking about a flatbed but a complete wooden bed that matches as close as possible the original. I plan to use tongue and groove oak floorboards.
I have seen a picture of something similar somewhere, I thought it was in a gallery on this site but cant find it. Dose anyone have any pic's ?
What do you guys think ?
Stephen
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
I would vote no. 
It seems to me that the tongue and groove will swell/shrink and buckle when it eventually gets wet. I am sure it will get wet because you can't seal the tounges and grooves as the tolerances are too tight. If you want an easy install, I saw a local guy use polished aluminum treadbright. I think the supplier charged him $100 including the cut-to-fit. Good luck, John 
It seems to me that the tongue and groove will swell/shrink and buckle when it eventually gets wet. I am sure it will get wet because you can't seal the tounges and grooves as the tolerances are too tight. If you want an easy install, I saw a local guy use polished aluminum treadbright. I think the supplier charged him $100 including the cut-to-fit. Good luck, John
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Stephen
Sounds like you're in a tough spot. I would have a steel one fabbed. I am not a master woodworker by any stretch, but I would think it would be tough to make something that wouldn't rattle itself loose at the seams. Unless you beefed it up a lot. Then it would weigh a ton. Also, tongue and groove floorboard is a real bad idea. My truck used to have one of those when I got it. Wood has to have expansion room. When I bought my truck the swollen lumber had actually pushed the bedsides out into the tires. Maybe 2 inches of movement in total width. It had actually torn the seam at the bedside extension panel joint. Wood is powerful when it decides to soak up some moisture.
I have the specs to do the floor correctly from scratch. Can you email me yet from FTE?
Sounds like you're in a tough spot. I would have a steel one fabbed. I am not a master woodworker by any stretch, but I would think it would be tough to make something that wouldn't rattle itself loose at the seams. Unless you beefed it up a lot. Then it would weigh a ton. Also, tongue and groove floorboard is a real bad idea. My truck used to have one of those when I got it. Wood has to have expansion room. When I bought my truck the swollen lumber had actually pushed the bedsides out into the tires. Maybe 2 inches of movement in total width. It had actually torn the seam at the bedside extension panel joint. Wood is powerful when it decides to soak up some moisture.
I have the specs to do the floor correctly from scratch. Can you email me yet from FTE?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 432
Likes: 1
From: West London, England
Thanks for your opinions guys,
I had thought about the wood expanding when it got wet. My plan was to build the bed then dissasemble it and yacht varnish all the pieces individually to seal them, then put it all back together, I know of a company that builds beautiful wooden boats, I will talk to them to see what they think.
I spoke to a guy who knows about fabrication and it seems it wont be as expensive as I thought, the main problem will be putting the rolls in the top edges, if this is possible this will be my favourite option
Dose anyone have or know of a website with a dimensioned drawing of the sheetmetal ?
Fatfenders, I have e-mailed you for the wood dimensions
Thanks again
Stephen
I had thought about the wood expanding when it got wet. My plan was to build the bed then dissasemble it and yacht varnish all the pieces individually to seal them, then put it all back together, I know of a company that builds beautiful wooden boats, I will talk to them to see what they think.
I spoke to a guy who knows about fabrication and it seems it wont be as expensive as I thought, the main problem will be putting the rolls in the top edges, if this is possible this will be my favourite option
Dose anyone have or know of a website with a dimensioned drawing of the sheetmetal ?
Fatfenders, I have e-mailed you for the wood dimensions
Thanks again
Stephen
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,416
Likes: 5,425
From: Central PA
Steve,
I think option #1 is your best bet. The front panel is easily made by a good sheet metal business. I had one built for my truck by a local guy and it was perfect. The roll on the side will be tough to make. I saw a truck at a show that the owner welded a pipe of the correct dimension on top of the side panel and it looked good. I looked at your gallery and your bed doesn't look that bad. Can it be salvaged?
About the bed floor: buy oak boards in England, have them milled to the correct specs and do the job yourself. The only thing you would need to ship from the US would be the bed strips, not much weight so it may be cheap.
By the way, what Premier League team do you support? Most the kids on my high school team like Man U.
good luck, abe
I think option #1 is your best bet. The front panel is easily made by a good sheet metal business. I had one built for my truck by a local guy and it was perfect. The roll on the side will be tough to make. I saw a truck at a show that the owner welded a pipe of the correct dimension on top of the side panel and it looked good. I looked at your gallery and your bed doesn't look that bad. Can it be salvaged?
About the bed floor: buy oak boards in England, have them milled to the correct specs and do the job yourself. The only thing you would need to ship from the US would be the bed strips, not much weight so it may be cheap.
By the way, what Premier League team do you support? Most the kids on my high school team like Man U.
good luck, abe
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Hey Steve, I have the original set of steel rails off of my 54. You can have them if you are willing to pay the shipping from California. 
They have a little surface rust but they are nice and straight. (I would have used them myself but the wife likes stainless.) Then someday, when you least expect it, I'll stop by while I'm on that long overdue vacation and see how nice that bed wood of yours looks. 
John in Sacramento (the zip is 95843)
Last edited by Jag Red 54; Dec 30, 2003 at 01:22 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
I just finished installing my Oak Bed. Some advice that I would offer is to dry-fit everything before you varnish the wood.
I had a lot of trouble with my kit because I didn't account for the varnish in the grooves. It caused about 3/8" error when the last board was installed.
I would have also seen where I needed to drill holes along the side.
Also, on my side panels the edges were rough, down at the bottom. My truck was missing the bed when I bought it, and I assumed that this rough edge was underneath the wood. It was on top. I had to have custom stainless edge pieces made. While they look good, I'd like to have planned for it...
And definitely get the bed rails that have holes pre-punched. As miserable as it was to install my bed, I can't imagine having to drill all the holes, all the while keeping them aligned.
I'll try to post pictures this week.
I had a lot of trouble with my kit because I didn't account for the varnish in the grooves. It caused about 3/8" error when the last board was installed.
I would have also seen where I needed to drill holes along the side.
Also, on my side panels the edges were rough, down at the bottom. My truck was missing the bed when I bought it, and I assumed that this rough edge was underneath the wood. It was on top. I had to have custom stainless edge pieces made. While they look good, I'd like to have planned for it...
And definitely get the bed rails that have holes pre-punched. As miserable as it was to install my bed, I can't imagine having to drill all the holes, all the while keeping them aligned.
I'll try to post pictures this week.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Good advice youdog. I also recommending holding off on drilling the 4 main bed hold down bolts until a test fit if you are cutting your own wood. If your bed is tweaked in the slightest you get a better fit this way. Staining your wood before you handle it extensively isn't a bad plan. I have trouble keeping my hands clean enough to handle unprotected wood. Then varnish after the test fit.
I cut my rabbets slightly wider so I had a bit of slack for swelling later. Like 1/16". Varnish wouldn't cause a problem.
I cut my rabbets slightly wider so I had a bit of slack for swelling later. Like 1/16". Varnish wouldn't cause a problem.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 432
Likes: 1
From: West London, England
Thanks guys
The front panel is the worst someone repaired it before by welding a 1/4" sheet on the bottom half, I may be able to save the sides, the other problem is that in the past someone welded in a thick corrugated steel floor and made a good job of it so cutting it out will be difficult
. I will see if I can rent a plasma cutter.
Abe I'm more into rugby than football (soccer) I support the wasps if you have heard of them, all my family are Arsenal supporters but I couldn't name the team
John thanks for the offer of the strips, I will probably go with stainless myself when the time comes but thats some way off.
Thanks again and have a great new year
Stephen
The front panel is the worst someone repaired it before by welding a 1/4" sheet on the bottom half, I may be able to save the sides, the other problem is that in the past someone welded in a thick corrugated steel floor and made a good job of it so cutting it out will be difficult
. I will see if I can rent a plasma cutter.Abe I'm more into rugby than football (soccer) I support the wasps if you have heard of them, all my family are Arsenal supporters but I couldn't name the team
John thanks for the offer of the strips, I will probably go with stainless myself when the time comes but thats some way off.
Thanks again and have a great new year
Stephen
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
I had exactly the same problem. I was able to use a torch to heat the spot welds and pop the steel floor out. But I had a number of places along the bed sides and the front, where either popping the welds had damaged the metal or rust had occurred.
As a result, I replaced the front panel with a Dennis Carpenter repro. And had to have custom stainless made to cover the side edges.
To do over again, I'd still do the front. And I'd had new sheet metal formed for everything below the lowest fender bolt/rivet. I'd have the old metal cut out and the new sheet metal welded in. Sounds like a lot until you think what it would cost to outright replace all three panels of the bed.
Oh, and on the front panel, if you replace it, make sure to seal the inside of the top rail. Mine was raw steel and was rusting quickly. I had it Osphosed (sp?) but it still is rusting a bit. Would have been much easier to deal with before it was installed and painted. Sometimes my paint & body guy just wasn't think about what he was doing....
As a result, I replaced the front panel with a Dennis Carpenter repro. And had to have custom stainless made to cover the side edges.
To do over again, I'd still do the front. And I'd had new sheet metal formed for everything below the lowest fender bolt/rivet. I'd have the old metal cut out and the new sheet metal welded in. Sounds like a lot until you think what it would cost to outright replace all three panels of the bed.
Oh, and on the front panel, if you replace it, make sure to seal the inside of the top rail. Mine was raw steel and was rusting quickly. I had it Osphosed (sp?) but it still is rusting a bit. Would have been much easier to deal with before it was installed and painted. Sometimes my paint & body guy just wasn't think about what he was doing....
Last edited by youdog99; Dec 31, 2003 at 08:00 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,416
Likes: 5,425
From: Central PA
"The front panel is the worst someone repaired it before by
welding a 1/4" sheet on the bottom half, I may be able to
save the sides, the other problem is that in the past someone welded in a thick corrugated steel floor and made a good job of it so cutting it out will be difficult . I will see if I can rent a plasma cutter."
Steve, sounds like the bed is fixable. Take your old bed panel to a sheet metal shop and they should be able to match it. For the bed sides: if you can cut off the steel bed you can buy corner angle bed strips that look like the bed strips that cover rust and bad spots on that bed flange. I think Mid-Fifty sells them. I got mine from Mar-K web site athttp://www.mar-k.com/) and they cover up rust and also strengthened the sides.
Cheers, abe
welding a 1/4" sheet on the bottom half, I may be able to
save the sides, the other problem is that in the past someone welded in a thick corrugated steel floor and made a good job of it so cutting it out will be difficult . I will see if I can rent a plasma cutter."
Steve, sounds like the bed is fixable. Take your old bed panel to a sheet metal shop and they should be able to match it. For the bed sides: if you can cut off the steel bed you can buy corner angle bed strips that look like the bed strips that cover rust and bad spots on that bed flange. I think Mid-Fifty sells them. I got mine from Mar-K web site at
http://www.mar-k.com/) and they cover up rust and also strengthened the sides. Cheers, abe
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StatikPulse
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jan 27, 2015 11:51 PM
FP
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
May 16, 2013 06:21 AM
wallgrent
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Feb 8, 2005 11:51 PM