351HO emissions REMOVAL
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: alaska
351HO emissions REMOVAL
i want to pull out all that annoying emissions crap from my 1985 351HO sitting in a fullsize bronco. im getting intake manifold, full length hedders, custom dual exhaust, mechanical secondary holley650doublepumper, comp cams Xtreme energy cam & maybe a rebuild pretty soon, and i just cant stand all the hundreds of vaccum lines going friggin everywhere, plus the HP gains from getting rid of the EGR and stuff arent bad either. i talked to my pseudo-mechanic freind and he told me to just follow the vaccum lines and rip them out, plugging any open ports anywhere. i would trust him, but i dont. has any of you tried this? anyone know about some kind of guide or schematic for doin this? help would be great, thx
BTW, this forum kicks ***, ive been reading it for awhile, just now decidded to join
BTW, this forum kicks ***, ive been reading it for awhile, just now decidded to join
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Missoula, Montana
I tried that on my old 84 Bronco. It ran like crap afterward. I hooked up the emmissions stuff again, and it ran smooth again.
I would advise against removing the emmissions stuff.
I'm no environmentalist, but I do like clean air.
I would advise against removing the emmissions stuff.
I'm no environmentalist, but I do like clean air.
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From: Dallas, Texas
alright, you can take off the 1st catylic converter to pass emissions then the best thing you can do it get headers a high flow catylic converter and high flow muffler with dual out take...you cannot pass emmisions if you do a "true dual exhaust"
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From: Oregon
If you're getting a new intake and carb without egr, the old vacuum lines will be going away. Until then, leave them hooked up. Your Bronco won't run right without them. The egr relies on the vacuum, at running temp., to operate. If you disconnect, you'll have to tune it to run when warm, then it'll run cruddy when cold. At the very least, you'll spend all your time tuning.
Spend a little time reading and understanding how the egr system works before you blindly trust the diagrams. If the vacuum lines always seem to be in the way, buy a bunch of new line and route them where you want.
I've bought a few rigs really cheap, because at some point, the owner decided to cap the vacuum ports and then sold the rig a few years down the road - because it acted like it had an old tired motor. After I've gone through and repaired and hooked the egr stuff back up, they start right up and the idle just purrs.
Spend a little time reading and understanding how the egr system works before you blindly trust the diagrams. If the vacuum lines always seem to be in the way, buy a bunch of new line and route them where you want.
I've bought a few rigs really cheap, because at some point, the owner decided to cap the vacuum ports and then sold the rig a few years down the road - because it acted like it had an old tired motor. After I've gone through and repaired and hooked the egr stuff back up, they start right up and the idle just purrs.
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From: alaska
EGR crap
intresting beaucse it runs like crap now. i pulled the plugs and they read wayy to rich, so ill be adjusting the carb to run laner for now. the intake i think im gonna get is an offenhauser intake for 1969 351W and i was told it would work on all windsor blocks. my cat is allready toast, im taking it out and installing TRUE dual exhaust with long tube hedders in a week or so. i dont care about emissions. i want to get better mpg, m freind told me that takin all the emissions stuff and the air pump off would get better milage and better power
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From: Oregon
Sure, once you take all the egr stuff off it'll run great..
I was just saying you can't just cap the vacuum. If it still has the original Ford Holley carb, it might just be a matter of adjusting the floats to make it run better - quick and easy. If mine had come with a smog pump, it would have been the first to go.
I was just saying you can't just cap the vacuum. If it still has the original Ford Holley carb, it might just be a matter of adjusting the floats to make it run better - quick and easy. If mine had come with a smog pump, it would have been the first to go.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Western IL
I hate all that emmissions crap in the engine but it will take a lot of work to get rid of it. One thing to be carefull of is DO NOT BUY A CALIFORNIA CAR OR TRUCK the stricter controls on older vehicals make them run terrible. Check to make sure also that a truck you buy isn't one that failed California standards and got shipped somewhere else. Always check the door for the origin of the truck.
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From: Oregon
I stay away from smog pumps and CA trucks. But I was wondering, are the heads different on those?
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From: alaska
CA truck?
i dont think its a CA truck, i bought it in alaska and im still here in alaska. is that wahat the air pump is tho? for CA only? that would suck. what i really want to know is HOW do you properly remove all the EGR and air pump? like about the actual removal process of all of it. even if youve got tps on the process thatd be great
also, should i keep the stock holley 650 vaccum carb or get a 650 doublepumper mechanical secondary?
also, should i keep the stock holley 650 vaccum carb or get a 650 doublepumper mechanical secondary?
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From: Eastern Ohio
Originally posted by LEIGUY
alright, you can take off the 1st catylic converter to pass emissions then the best thing you can do it get headers a high flow catylic converter and high flow muffler with dual out take...you cannot pass emmisions if you do a "true dual exhaust"
alright, you can take off the 1st catylic converter to pass emissions then the best thing you can do it get headers a high flow catylic converter and high flow muffler with dual out take...you cannot pass emmisions if you do a "true dual exhaust"
Now on to your question. To properly remove the emission controls, you will need to remove ALL of them and not just hack job it. The EGR will need to be fully bypassed, airpump (if equiped) removed, and all vacuum lines removed and un-needed ones plugged. The only vacuum ports that will be retained are the same as Non-Emission models (IE: PCV, Spark advance, Brake booster, Vacuum to cab controls) Once you have done all that, you will need to re-time the motor, and retune and re-jet the carb. Failure to do that will result in the vehicle running worse than before you started.
As for the carb, keep the 650 Vacuum secondary carb. It is much more offroad friendly.
Last thought, when you do the duals, instead of mufflers, use 2 hi-flo cats in their place. They will work as mufflers, providing a nice rumble similar to Turbo mufflers, and will be better enviromentally wise, then no pollution controls at all
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From: alaska
high flow cat's takes high flow cash
thanks, Breeze
high flow cats are too expensive, i was thinking of going with dual glasspacks mounted as far back as possible to the tips
also, sinse i will probally end up buying pipe and having it custom bent to fit around my T-case, whats with the whole H- pipe thing? does the left and right need to have a connection for it to run right?
high flow cats are too expensive, i was thinking of going with dual glasspacks mounted as far back as possible to the tips
also, sinse i will probally end up buying pipe and having it custom bent to fit around my T-case, whats with the whole H- pipe thing? does the left and right need to have a connection for it to run right?
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From: Eastern Ohio
Unless you are going for every last ounce of oomph out of the motor, I wouldnt worry bout the H pipe. The mufflers will more or less have to be mounted in front of the rear axle due to room restrictions under the bronco. Lastly, make sure that the exhaust exits to the sides of the vehicle behind the tires. Exiting the exhaust straight out the back under the rearf bumper looks good, but the first time you try to drive it with the rear glass down or the top off, it will suck exhaust into the passnger compartment.