Spark plugs
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
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Spark plugs
I have a 98' Expedition. First, I must say it's great for my first Ford. I getting ready to change the plugs. Does anyone have any recommendations on replacement plugs for the 5.4L.
Rodney
1998 Eddie Bauer, 4X4, 5.4, Uni-Filter, Aero-Turbine Muffler, 3" from the Cat Back, AR Bursts
Rodney
1998 Eddie Bauer, 4X4, 5.4, Uni-Filter, Aero-Turbine Muffler, 3" from the Cat Back, AR Bursts
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: St. Cloud, FL
Whatever you use must be platinum. I use the OEM Motorcraft Platinum plugs in all of my customers vehicles. Have fun replacing the plugs, it's an adventure on that one. I usually find it easiest to disconnect the batt, unbolt the harness junction block from the firewall and disconnect the leads going from the junction block to the solenoid. Allows you to pull it away some and squeeze your hand through a bit better.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Run a search on replacing plugs and you'll find lots of advice. You'll need several length extensions and a flex knuckle to survive the experience. Plan on several hours at a minimum. The plugs are located under individual coil packs (COPS). #4 is the killer. Some folks recommend removing the fuel injectors for access, I didn't need to when I did mine... just unbolted the fuel rails for wiggle room...however it is tight.
The tech article from Dave West is pretty good (see below). You should also ask the moderator BigMatXXL to email you a copy of his "EOG" (Expedition Owners Guide) - addresses a number of common problems and upgrades.
Hope this helps:
How To Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter F-150s
By Dave West
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.
Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.
I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.
The tech article from Dave West is pretty good (see below). You should also ask the moderator BigMatXXL to email you a copy of his "EOG" (Expedition Owners Guide) - addresses a number of common problems and upgrades.
Hope this helps:
How To Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter F-150s
By Dave West
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.
Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.
I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, Ohio
Do not get Bosch platinum plugs. They do not agree with a Ford. I figured it out after 2 sets of plugs and wires(4.6 still had wires and 2 seperate coil packs) chasing cylinder misfires. Get Motorcraft or Autolite platinum plugs.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: North-East
Here's a great web site with pictures from Matt's Truck...
http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
HAve fun and plenty of beer!
http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
HAve fun and plenty of beer!
