I have a 95 I6 5 speed 4x4. Yesterday the clutch started feeling spongy and now will not release completely making it almost impossible to shift and when stopped the truck will creep forward even with clutch in. I'm guessing it's hydraulic system and not the clutch itself. I did check the fluid and it's full. Can anyone confirm this for me. Also, if it is the hydraulics is it something a shade tree mechanic can do. I can do some wrentching but not if it means dropping the transmission. Also, I've noticed in 4th gear as you accelerate the gear shift chatters/rattles about 50mph. I do pulling with the truck and use 4th a lot but the rattle is annoying. Can this be adjusted?

 

Mine rattles at highway speed sometime.. but mainly it is that stupid shift patern thing.... it has came loose and rattles sometimes.

 

Thanks for the reply....can that be tightened?

 

Check the clutch linkage under the dash. There are a couple bushings that wear down and cause the clutch not to fully release. Also look around the bellhousing on the transmission to see if you find any brake fluid.

 

I'll check when I get home.

 

that pattern thing..no i dont think it can be adjusted. I just leave my hand on the stick. Im thinkin bout gettin some clear glue and just tring to place a drop around the disk to see if that will hold it with out looking tacky

 

Mine (listed in signature) did the same thing a couple of weeks ago and all I had to do was bleed the slave cylinder. To do that, all you need is some DOT 3 brake fluid and some hose the diameter of the bleed screw (and a helper, it makes it go much smoother).

1. There is a little access hole on the drivers side of the tranny, you will notice the bleed screw with a little rubber dust cap sticking out of it. Remove the dust cap, and put your piece of hose on there but do not open the bleed screw.

2. On the drivers side of the fire wall, is the master cylinder. Open it up and if it has a rubber cup sort of thing in it, take it out and have your helper there ready to fill it as you bleed the system.

3. Pour some brake fluid into the bottom of a clear container so you can keep the end of your hose submerged in fluid (you don't want anymore air in the system)

4. Open the bleed screw, let fluid run out for about 15 seconds or so or until bubbles stop. (make sure your helper is keeping the master cylinder full)

5. Close the bleed screw and get in the truck and push the clutch all the way to the floor and back 10 times. Then repeat the above process.

6. Do this same process 2 or 3 more times (depends on the bubbles your getting) and then make sure the bleeder screw is closed, the dust cap is in place, the master cylinder is full and that rubber cup thing is back in there then replace the master cylinder cap and test out the clutch.

If this doesn't work then you have more complicated problems (I.E. bad master clyinder, slave cylinder, or bushings).

I hope this helps!!!
Scott

 

I really appreciate the info and my billfold hopes this works. I'll do this tonight and post tomorrow about the outcome. The truck only has 70,000 miles and is a 95 so I was hoping it was nothing major.

 

I bled the line last night and I still can't believe how stupid I was. It took me 2 hrs to do what should have been a 30 min job. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get fluid to flow from the master cylinder to the bleed valve. I wore my daughter's leg out pushing on the clutch pedal until I decided to look in the reservoir and discovered this rubber bladder thing that I hadn't taken out. Once I did that the whole process was successfully over in 30 mins. What is that thing for anyway....it sure won't let fluid pass through it.

 

My buddy's '72 Landcruiser has one in it too. I have no idea what it's for.

 

The rubber bladder inside the MC reservoir. Basically it is just a seal and it prevents the brake fluid from coming out.

 

Did you get it working jakemarty?

 

Yes, it works perfectly and I appreciate the help. I'm not sure what caused it to do that in the first place so I cleaned everything up and will be checking for leaks. I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's not the slave.
thanks again for the help

 

On the rattling thing; if you have a Mazda 5 speed (as opposed to a ZF-which I don't know about), take the shifter out of the transmission. Right around where the lower "ball" of the shifter goes there are two blue pieces of plastic that are sort of spring loaded to help keep the shifter tight. On mine what I found was more like the "remains" of these two parts. The Ford dealer wasn't very helper, but a local transmission shop had some in stock and sold them to me for about $6. Made an amazing difference. The shifter is much less sloppy and no longer rattles.
The rubber seal in the clutch master cylinder is to keep moisture from contaminating the brake fluid. As the fluid level drops over time, air must go in to fill the space. This would not be a problem if air wasn't humid. You often see the same arrangement in brake master cylinders, particularly GM's.

 

Great info! I will take a look at mine and let you know what happens. Also, I got under my truck and used a small mirror to examine the 3 rubbers plugs that causes all the trouble with the Mazda 5 speed. They look great, still soft and not seeping fluid what so ever. They are completely dry. Can I assume they're okay for a while?