Starting problems & Now Update's
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: Hoquiam, WA
A metal plate with fins on it. Both batteries would be hooked up to it and so would the alternator. The isolator would automatically direct the charge to the battery that needed to be charged the most.
But I'm not sure if your truck has one.
There is a possibility, if it does have an isolator, that the charge is being directed to the battery that doesn't exist anymore.
I'm not an expert in this, just an idea.
But I'm not sure if your truck has one.
There is a possibility, if it does have an isolator, that the charge is being directed to the battery that doesn't exist anymore.
I'm not an expert in this, just an idea.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
I'm trying to eliminate what is not wrong now. I fully charged the battery. it started right up with no problem. Turned it off, checked the battery. and it was at a 75% charge. Is that normal, or did that just give me a clue as to what the problem is?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 952
Likes: 1
From: iowa
i had this problem on my 70 f250
found out it was the alternator drawing the power when the engine was off. when i replaced the alternator with a new one the problem went away, now i can sit for days and not have any problems, before i would sit over night and have to jump start in the morning.
found out it was the alternator drawing the power when the engine was off. when i replaced the alternator with a new one the problem went away, now i can sit for days and not have any problems, before i would sit over night and have to jump start in the morning.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
I really need help
I've posted several messages and received lots of help. I think I've done enough trouble shooting now, to put the whole problem down and someone might know the answer.
New battery, new voltage regulator, all wiring good, alternator tested good at auto store.
Truck will rarely start on its own even with fully charged battery. However, can be jumped off and in just a few minutes will start right up.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?
My thoughts:
1. If solenoid was bad, it shouldn't start up when jumped either, should it?
2. Grounding problem??? But would jumping off still work???
3. I've heard diodes can go bad, but alternator will still test good. Is this true???
Any of this possible? Or does anyone have a good idea as to what it might be?
Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.
New battery, new voltage regulator, all wiring good, alternator tested good at auto store.
Truck will rarely start on its own even with fully charged battery. However, can be jumped off and in just a few minutes will start right up.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?
My thoughts:
1. If solenoid was bad, it shouldn't start up when jumped either, should it?
2. Grounding problem??? But would jumping off still work???
3. I've heard diodes can go bad, but alternator will still test good. Is this true???
Any of this possible? Or does anyone have a good idea as to what it might be?
Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Pryor, OK USA
Hey elstx
Have you replaced the power cable to the starter. It may be bad and when jumped with extra juice it may go ahead and start. You never can tell if they are bad with the coating on them. Other than that i havent got a clue but hope that helps
Bigern
Have you replaced the power cable to the starter. It may be bad and when jumped with extra juice it may go ahead and start. You never can tell if they are bad with the coating on them. Other than that i havent got a clue but hope that helps
Bigern
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Yes, I have; forgot to mention that earlier. Original one was laying against header pipe and had melted through. New one is dead center between pipes and still good.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Solano County
How about your ground cable. Is that still good. Corrosion will build up in it reducing power flow. What gauge cables do you have the stock or larger. I run a 0 gauge and haven't had problems since I installed it. Also, how many cold cranking amps are in that new battery? I run 1100 cca
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Solano County
See if a buddy has a higher cca batttery that you can use to see if you may need a bigger battery. cca makes a big difference. Also just an idea but try to jump from points other than straight off the battery. ie the primary on the selenoid and the negative on the block. Could help to limit down the parts. Do yuo have to let the cables sit on the battery for awhile while before you jump it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Take the starter off the truck and take it to Autozone and have them test it. Advanced Auto Parts has test machines too. FWIW: Even if the starter is new, do it. I have replaced starters and they have been broken right out of the box. If the starter is bad it may draw excessive amps, usually when it does you can feel the cable after a starting attempt and it will be very warm.
You can do a field test with the starter out of the truck and on the ground using jumper cables, though the arcing can destroy the copper lugs. Though this only tells you that it actuates, not the amp draw when under load.
It sounds like you have headers, those can destroy a starter with excessive heat, it can also break down a cable and cause it when heated to have too much resistance.
If you have a high compression engine (highly modified) a stock starter may not be enough to turn over the engine.
You can do a field test with the starter out of the truck and on the ground using jumper cables, though the arcing can destroy the copper lugs. Though this only tells you that it actuates, not the amp draw when under load.
It sounds like you have headers, those can destroy a starter with excessive heat, it can also break down a cable and cause it when heated to have too much resistance.
If you have a high compression engine (highly modified) a stock starter may not be enough to turn over the engine.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
The starter may work when you jump it and still be bad, when they short out they draw more amps than they should when you hook up to jump it you are doubleing your cranking amps by putting your batteries in a series. I would check the ground from the block to the firewall I had that problem last year.